BWDESIGNS Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 Hello DTF professionals. I have an imported shaker/oven unit. Have been visiting your threads for awhile. We really are clueless when it comes to circuitry. Have recurring problems with the heater unit. I have purchased the Omron relays. We have new thermostat controller units. Have been corresponding (trying to) with the Overseas Tech department, and although they are trying to resolve...I thought I would approach experts. Is anyone able to provide a basic circuit drawing of this creation? I assume they are all basically the same. We cannot get the heating element to operate. There is new thermostat, and several new relays. We have also replaced the "Relay base". Although the wires are numbered, could it be connected wrong? How do we determine if a relay is burned out? Is there special compatible thermostats to work in these systems? Bought a REX-C100FK02-m*-an Any assistance is much appreciated. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson4 Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, BWDESIGNS said: Hello DTF professionals. I have an imported shaker/oven unit. Have been visiting your threads for awhile. We really are clueless when it comes to circuitry. Have recurring problems with the heater unit. I have purchased the Omron relays. We have new thermostat controller units. Have been corresponding (trying to) with the Overseas Tech department, and although they are trying to resolve...I thought I would approach experts. Is anyone able to provide a basic circuit drawing of this creation? I assume they are all basically the same. We cannot get the heating element to operate. There is new thermostat, and several new relays. We have also replaced the "Relay base". Although the wires are numbered, could it be connected wrong? How do we determine if a relay is burned out? Is there special compatible thermostats to work in these systems? Bought a REX-C100FK02-m*-an Any assistance is much appreciated. TIA Hi, In general the basic wiring is the same, however for each individual unit, even coming out of the same place can be wired differently with different parts. I have 4 shakers, 3 look identical and two came from the same place. not one of them is the same. Giving advice on the subject could cause some issue because a certified electrician would be advisable and if in some scenario something went wrong, I wouldn't want to be held accountable. So, given that, I am not an electrician, you should not do any of this, this is only speculation based on what I would personally do as a stranger who knows nothing in terms of professional work. The first thing I would check is if you are running it on 110V or 220V. Usually I see 220V, even sometimes if advertised as 110V. Running 110V on a 220V machine, the shaker, duster, even PID will still work, the only thing that won't is the bulbs. I'm not telling you to plug it into a 220V outlet, I'm saying this is a possibility for why the bulbs don't work and something you should look into. The general layout though is you have a very basic system for the heater. It has a main power entrance, which one side is ran to the bulbs directly in one scenario. The other side is ran to a SSR Relay. There is a low voltage DC ( usually 12-24V) that comes out of the PID unit and triggers the SSR relay. This simply connects the positive of the power side to the positive of the heater element side- you would have heat. The first thing I would check if this is your setup is that the relay kicks on. Usually they have a red light on them of some sort to indicate if the relay is functioning. IF you are receiving the red light, then the PID is working. If you are not, you could manually actuate this or check the voltage coming from the PID. If that works, Move on to the relay. The top is two hots( usually), 220V. This can kill you. To make it easy, simply replace the relay to avoid potentially deadly mistakes. If it still does not work and the PID and relay are functioning, then you need to check the bulb connections. Generally there are 3, and they connect somewhere to one wire with a block. Make sure that's fine. If all the above is fine and the bulbs are fine, and if you are running it on the proper voltage, it will work. If it doesn't, then you missed something. If you have the other version using the mechanical relays, generally they connect the ground and hot to that relay, but not always. If that is the case, then all you need to do is check continuity between the two bulb connectors ( again, unit unplugged) If you have continuity, then the bulbs are fine and so are those connections, at least to some degree. Those relays you can visibly see if the are working or damaged, but again also controlled by the same 12-24V DC trigger. Basically, it's not finding what doesn't work, it's finding what does work. Start at the first thing, which I consider the PID and move forward. PID-RELAY-ELEMENTS. That's all there is in the most basic form. So it's one of those things, or the wiring. If I had to put money on it, I'd be willing to bet you are plugging it into a 110V outlet instead of a 220V, and it's a 220V machine. Edited June 27, 2022 by johnson4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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