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Epson XP-15000 Conversion Some Answers and Some Questions


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18 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

I get it. Not looking to do roll stuff right now. Trying to figure out a powdering and shake system for sheets. 

I wasn't suggesting that you are, I was talking about overall. Sorry if somehow that was insinuated. It's a nice process and works well once you learn all the in's and out's for yourself overall, as a whole. It's worth the PITA it can be sometimes is all I'm saying. 

 

For sheet curing and powdering, Generally I see people carrying long term success with purchasing something to cure the sheets made for the specific use. I have seen griddles, counter ovens, I mean, tons of things people have tried. None of them yielded consistent good results. 

 

Something like this: 

https://dtfsuperstore.com/collections/printers/products/dtf-sheet-oven

 

And an exhaust fan attached to it is about the only thing I would know. Which I do not know first hand. 

Sorry, sheet printing isn't my expertise. I've hand made maybe 10, and messed up 9 of them haha. 

Edited by johnson4
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LOL mis communication. You're good. I really appreciate all the help. Roll is def on my radar but I'm just doing this as a hobby right now. I might pursue it and then def do roll and mini shaker/oven. Althought the P800 as say has roll already available. 

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3 hours ago, johnson4 said:

3. with good film you can instant peel without the smallest of detail lifting up. If you feel like you have to " pull" the film off the shirt, it's not good film and likely has too much powder on the print as well- from my experience. 

Who do you recommend? Right now I'm using KingdomDTF ink, film and powder and all of it seems pretty good to me so far. When I hot peel small letters that's where it pulls up. If I let it cool off even 10-15 seconds then there's no problem.

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21 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

LOL mis communication. You're good. I really appreciate all the help. Roll is def on my radar but I'm just doing this as a hobby right now. I might pursue it and then def do roll and mini shaker/oven. Althought the P800 as say has roll already available. 

No worries. the p800 does support roll printing, however I have never used it when roll printing so I'm honestly not sure how well it works. 

 

The printer itself and roll adapter are pretty hard to come by in decent shape. I run the P800's and have 4 of them, but they are so hard to find I'm looking into the P5000 or P6000 as replacements.

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20 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

Who do you recommend? Right now I'm using KingdomDTF ink, film and powder and all of it seems pretty good to me so far. When I hot peel small letters that's where it pulls up. If I let it cool off even 10-15 seconds then there's no problem.

I have used DTFSuperStore products since 12/2020. Their basic ink, economy powder and matte film ( used to be glossy). I can't give a solid recommendation though other than they always deliver and have good customer service. It's actually the owner of this Forum as well. I did try a few different film options but didn't like most of them ( from china). 

 

I can't say much about anyone else, I haven't tried them. Once it works- I'm cool, I don't really product hunt once I've got a system going. I hear good and bad in an equivalent way for all of the major sellers so I'm of no help in that aspect. 

 

That sounds normal though, if you are cool with it then there isn't anything wrong with waiting to peel. 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

Yeah almost nothing out there for P800 or P400.

What do you think about the R3000 or the new P900?

R3000 is the same as the P600- terrible ink system. 

 

P900, No idea, I was going to pursue it but waited. To me the P5000 is built for DTF, So I'm going that route for now. Just waiting to button a few things up and I will post print speeds, quality, and overall comparisons between Acro 10.5, Cadlink, Ekprint. I think it's going to be a greenlight though, possibly a game changer for the industry.

So far, I have been right on everything I have previously posted on this forum about the P5000, things that I expected from it based on comparisons and understanding how the printer works, print speed, and overall quality. 

Edited by johnson4
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Thanks. Good to know. Earlier today I was going to order more cleaning fluid, dumped mine on the floor when I set it on my make shift output tray LOL and some more powder. So just powder 2.2 pounds and cleaning fluid and they wanted $30 for shipping. I was like hell no. I bought a crap load of stuff to start so didn't notice the shipping originally.

So now I just bought some powder from amazon, looks like a name brand, and some cleaning fluid. Same price, but free shipping.

 

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Just now, cartierusm said:

Thanks. Good to know. Earlier today I was going to order more cleaning fluid, dumped mine on the floor when I set it on my make shift output tray LOL and some more powder. So just powder 2.2 pounds and cleaning fluid and they wanted $30 for shipping. I was like hell no. I bought a crap load of stuff to start so didn't notice the shipping originally.

So now I just bought some powder from amazon, looks like a name brand, and some cleaning fluid. Same price, but free shipping.

 

Yea, Shipping is a B**** overall. Hopefully you end up liking it. Most of the china powder is the same from what I have used. Some of it is super fine, I don't like that kind, the rest though works well and the prints are soft with it. 

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2 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

R3000 is the same as the P600- terrible ink system. 

 

P900, No idea, I was going to pursue it but waited. To me the P5000 is built for DTF, So I'm going that route for now. Just waiting to button a few things up and I will post print speeds, quality, and overall comparisons between Acro 10.5, Cadlink, Ekprint. I think it's going to be a greenlight though, possibly a game changer for the industry.

So far, I have been right on everything I have previously posted on this forum about the P5000, things that I expected from it based on comparisons and understanding how the printer works, print speed, and overall quality. 

Yeah, but 2k is a bit steep for me. I guess I'll be satisfied with my xp-15000 once I get the CISS installed and figure out why the head is clogging so much. Hopefully it was just the heat today.

BTW you were right, if you pull the maintenance tank out it resets the ink. Also it resets when you turn off the printer. Inkchip got back with me, but wanted my order number, a pic of the ink levels and if I was able to successfully activate the chipless firmware. One thing I read or saw on youtube was if you're in the middle of a print and it's about to run out of ink, not sure how you tell, you can pull the maintenance tank out and in real quick and it'll continue.

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2 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

Yea, Shipping is a B**** overall. Hopefully you end up liking it. Most of the china powder is the same from what I have used. Some of it is super fine, I don't like that kind, the rest though works well and the prints are soft with it. 

Ok good to know. I just bought whatever, but if I had a choice I would think fine powder would be better.

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I guess my system is a little PITA. I have a shipping container as my workspace for the actual heat transfer and curing, but I have to do my printing in my house as it would be way too hot in the shipping container for the printer. SO I have to carry the wet prints outside, wind blowing of course, and then powder outside the work space and then do the rest inside.

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12 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

Yeah, but 2k is a bit steep for me. I guess I'll be satisfied with my xp-15000 once I get the CISS installed and figure out why the head is clogging so much. Hopefully it was just the heat today.

BTW you were right, if you pull the maintenance tank out it resets the ink. Also it resets when you turn off the printer. Inkchip got back with me, but wanted my order number, a pic of the ink levels and if I was able to successfully activate the chipless firmware. One thing I read or saw on youtube was if you're in the middle of a print and it's about to run out of ink, not sure how you tell, you can pull the maintenance tank out and in real quick and it'll continue.

Yea, If you look around you can get it for about $200 under retail, sell the OEM carts for $200 as well. It knocks the price down a bit down to around $1,400, the same price as the P800 new except the P800 didn't come with a roll holder or have a 360 nozzles 10 channel head and built in vacuum table ( the main perks to me). 

 

Yea, I was the original person that mentioned that on the forum before the XP-15000 was sold by a couple well known people. That is where the " auto reset" I was talking about comes from. 

Edited by johnson4
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12 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

Ok good to know. I just bought whatever, but if I had a choice I would think fine powder would be better.

Fine powder creates a thicker layer, causing the print to be very thick and have a heavy hand, as well as sticks to the film where it shouldn't.

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15 minutes ago, cartierusm said:

I guess my system is a little PITA. I have a shipping container as my workspace for the actual heat transfer and curing, but I have to do my printing in my house as it would be way too hot in the shipping container for the printer. SO I have to carry the wet prints outside, wind blowing of course, and then powder outside the work space and then do the rest inside.

That does indeed sound unfavorable. We've all done it though, make it work and move up. I've been at this crap since 2015 and just now getting somewhere. Fortunately DTG information rolled over into DTF or I'd have been up the creek. I haven't slept longer than 5 hours a night in 7 years( at least it feels like it). Most weeks I only sleep 5 days out of 7. We do what we gotta do. That is what makes the difference between success from my perspective, putting up with the unfavorable and chugging forward one small step at a time.

Edited by johnson4
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If you run the P600/R3000 pretty good everyday, the ink system won't be an issue if you have one of those, or can find one cheap. I can show you how to flush the ink system every 30-60 days to prevent the issues that happen. I ran several of them for years with white ink, and my god is was terrible at times compared to the P800's ink system. 

It uses small rubber flaps and springs, kind of like a weed eater carburetor for the ink to flow. Over time, even with use, this ink settles and slowly weighs down these flaps and prevents them from opening. I called it sludge, but it's white ink pigment. 

Edited by johnson4
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3 hours ago, cartierusm said:

Good morning. What do you think about the 3880? There's one locally here for $200 with refillable carts.

I have never used it, it doesn't support chipless firmware. 

 

From my understanding the 3880 and 3800 is the old P800 though. If it works great with good nozzle checks I'd bite for $200.

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I didn't check it's function, but bought it anyway. The guy gave me a bunch of unopened carts and new refillable carts and the piezo (sp?) cleaning fluid and 3 other dye sub printers. So I figured it's worth the risk. I'll post if it works out. It'll be fun to play with none the less.

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4 hours ago, cartierusm said:

I didn't check it's function, but bought it anyway. The guy gave me a bunch of unopened carts and new refillable carts and the piezo (sp?) cleaning fluid and 3 other dye sub printers. So I figured it's worth the risk. I'll post if it works out. It'll be fun to play with none the less.

sounds like a good deal for $200

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