cartierusm Posted May 28, 2022 Share Posted May 28, 2022 I've always made shirts, mostly for fun, but also a lot for business. So I decided to go this route instead of others. Here's where I'm at so far. XP-15000, easy to covert to DTF. Here's what I did with a little explanation as I had questions, but lots of the tutorials out there are petty good. 1. Get your printer, your supplies and unpack it all. This includes RIP software and two sets of chipless carts. 2. Turn your printer on > don't plug into computer > don't install carts just select English on the printer don't worry about anything else > install Epson software > disable Epson Monitor and updates - don't use wifi > end process for any Epson stuff running in Task Manager > go to one of the chipless software places listed here > buy a license > run through their instructions - Make sure when you're updating the firmware when an error message pops up at the end don't click try again just click NEXT, then it'll hang up as well on the last part or go real quick, but the button FINISH will be able to be pressed just click it and you're done. It's a little confusing, because those errors and hang ups are normal. Then turn the printer off with the cart carriage moving so it's not docked and you can move it by hand. Unscrew the roller assembly and remove it. There's tons of tutorials out there for this part. 3. Install your RIP software > add your printer > install an ICC profile if you have one for your ink. I'm using Kingdom DTF and they have an ICM profile for their ink in a XP-15000 > go back to the printer and follow instructions on the screen to setup the carts, don't do calibrations as you shouldn't have any carts in there yet. It'll act like it's cleaning and charging the system. I mean at this point you could stick in your DTF ink carts. I didn't have mine yet so I did that later. When you do put in your carts do so through the printer menu for changing carts that way the printer will go through the setup process and charge the system. 4. I built an output tray from a 13" x 19" x 1/4" Acrylic from Tap Plastics and a piece of 1/2" Acrylic 13" long. I then super glued this to the bottom of the other piece to make sure it stayed flat and I also put a hold in the brace to hold it to my printer cart. I'll post a pic if people are interested. I printed some parts on my 3D printer. 5. I'm using CADLink and it seems great so far. Complicated, but not too bad. The best thing to do when doing all this is have a graphic you created printed by a professional to have a reference. This helped me a lot. Before I decided to print my own a week ago I had some made from a pro shop on Etsy. I loaded the same file I had printed by someone else into my RIP. I then printed it, well tried to, I ran into the sheet not feeding (this is a common problem with this model) I turned the printer off, unplugged it, held the power button down until the light turned off (drained the power) then plugged it back in and hit print again. It took two tries of clicking try again on the printer screen. Then it loaded the film. The film I have is from KingdomDTF and is frosty matte, so not clear, but the printer had problems at first. The second print so problem. The first print was using stock settings in CADLink for the XP-15000. WAY too much ink I mean it was flooded. If you load a graphic you want to print and click in the bottom right area there's a button Color Adjust. Stock say Max Ink at 400. I turned mine down to 200, then white to 20% from 50%. That worked. Print came out pretty good. Colors were not like the professional one I got, but that's the software and my settings not the printer. Also you can't print on the last 2" of a sheet as the roller assembly you removed it usually used to hold the media in place and feed it as it's still printing. 6. After that I wait a few minutes and then powdered the print. I'm using a Presto Griddle, large one, from amazon to cure the prints. This worked and didn't work at the same time. The temp controller on the griddle is off by almost a 100 degrees so I'm adding a PID and temp sensor to it and a cover so it's basically a cheap oven, but the print is flat the entire time. I got it to cure then pressed it on a shirt. Not bad for a first time. 7. When refilling or filling your carts the first time use a gram scale if you have it and put everything on the scale, the cart with it's bottom cap on and both plugs. Then fill with ink until the total weight is 28-30 grams. Gently roll your ink bottles back and forth to mix the ink before filling. I still have lots to learn with the RIP, but it's working I just need some questions answered. Some of the questions I have: 1. The max resolution built into the CADLink RIP 1440 x 720, but the resolution of this printer is a lot higher. 2. There is a setting in CADLink about how many nozzles to use. Default is 64, but there is one higher, 80 nozzles. Not sure what this is or how it works. 3. When I bring in the graphic that I've had made by someone as a reference and RIP it and look at the raw data (these are terms in CADLink for showing a preview of what the image will look like printed) It looks washed out, this is using 1440x720 Color mode. I can see the image in the view raw data, but if I change the substrate (meaning what color the shirt is going to be.) to black then the graphic I'm trying to print doesn't even show up. If I use 1440x720 Black (where CADLink will automatically knock out blacks) and RIP it and view raw data nothing shows up. If I change to black substrate I still see nothing. Kind of weird. 4. I still have some testing to do to see how much ink to use and how to get the color I want. 5. From all the advice on here you only run each color once including white in the RIP. So how does the RIP use white if there are two white ink carts? Does it use some of each during a print? 6. Will this ink work on regular paper so i can go back and do a print hear alignment? I ask cause normally when setting up this printer for the first time you're supposed to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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