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Epson XP-15000 DTF conversion


johnson4
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Just posting this here incase others find it interesting. 
 

I’ve meant to convert another 15000 for awhile now, but I think the weak spot is the OEM ink system and aftermarket cartridges. V.1 printed alright and seals well, damper fits in nicely. I plan on, in my free time, to just find a simple and efficient ( and cheap) way to overcome this printers downfalls. I made this adapter months ago but just got around to printing it. Fits perfect. 

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These dampers are bigger than the ones going to be used for it. I do expect many revisions and issues along the way. But, it all fits and seals perfectly. Now to actually print them for use instead of fitment. The “port” doesn’t break off because it tapers, and the damper is snugly fitted in place. No room to wiggle and break it off. So that worked well( so far)... 

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D1CB061B-CF69-427D-BC7B-C2FB78F9B86E.jpeg

46EA8A30-578A-456B-B660-C506CD415EB0.jpeg

Edited by johnson4
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Hi, I'm also working on xp15000, and I want to take a Chinese adapter for the xp600 printhead, it looks like what you did, or the original epson damper from the L7180 printer, in other countries it may be called differently, it fits the xp600 head and a 3x2mm ink tube

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20 minutes ago, nazar said:

Hi, I'm also working on xp15000, and I want to take a Chinese adapter for the xp600 printhead, it looks like what you did, or the original epson damper from the L7180 printer, in other countries it may be called differently, it fits the xp600 head and a 3x2mm ink tube

Yea, I looked for awhile, they are just different than xp600 and won’t work, so just trying to make something work with it. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/20/2022 at 9:30 AM, johnson4 said:

These dampers are bigger than the ones going to be used for it. I do expect many revisions and issues along the way. But, it all fits and seals perfectly. Now to actually print them for use instead of fitment. The “port” doesn’t break off because it tapers, and the damper is snugly fitted in place. No room to wiggle and break it off. So that worked well( so far)... 

EF872DFA-4E88-4461-95FD-DEED8A8DD6A8.jpeg

3D934930-97DC-4998-B318-07AF44BB2C88.jpeg

D1CB061B-CF69-427D-BC7B-C2FB78F9B86E.jpeg

46EA8A30-578A-456B-B660-C506CD415EB0.jpeg

How are you liking your ink cartridge damper adapter? Are you willing to share or sale the 3d print file for these. I have a xp 15000.

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I am excited to see if they end up being a good solution. We are still doing the three sets (2 ink, 1 cleaner) set up. That being said we have been really happy with our results since starting this on just two days ago (2/1). Now if I can learn all of the ins and outs of Cadlink I think we will be doing really well.

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54 minutes ago, Kanagar00 said:

I am excited to see if they end up being a good solution. We are still doing the three sets (2 ink, 1 cleaner) set up. That being said we have been really happy with our results since starting this on just two days ago (2/1). Now if I can learn all of the ins and outs of Cadlink I think we will be doing really well.

Yea, it’s a good starter setup. Just be careful, some of those aftermarket carts don’t seal well. 

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29 minutes ago, Kanagar00 said:

Oh wow, thank you for the info. So is CISS the best way to go?

The ciss is difficult, and uses the same cartridges just with a tank attached. Personally I’d recommend just carts until you are ready to try the ciss, unless you have some in line dampers

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  • 7 months later...

Hello, i am very interested in this project. , i would love to help trouble shoot this with you and give my input. i have the resin printers at the house, would just need the STL file for the adapter, and the dampers you suggest. i am noticing way to much wear and tear by using aftermarket sponge carts, and swapping them back and forth with cleaner carts. This looks like it would be a much better solution than the current setup. would you be willing to send the files and tell me what dampers you use? superhipinterestingthings@gmail.com is my email. this project looks very promising.

 

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48 minutes ago, Jimmystanley37 said:

Hello, i am very interested in this project. , i would love to help trouble shoot this with you and give my input. i have the resin printers at the house, would just need the STL file for the adapter, and the dampers you suggest. i am noticing way to much wear and tear by using aftermarket sponge carts, and swapping them back and forth with cleaner carts. This looks like it would be a much better solution than the current setup. would you be willing to send the files and tell me what dampers you use? superhipinterestingthings@gmail.com is my email. this project looks very promising.

 

As far as my testing went it would be a fantastic replacement. On top of that I was going to laser cut a specific thickness rubber ( you know that rubber/sponge type material) and replace the " hollow" rubber seal on the printhead that seals these. Those two things being changed, there would be no chance of leaking at all, a white ink circulation system could easily be implemented and the printer could run nonstop. I was going to place a small sponge material in that cavity on the bottom of the damper so the machine would soak it up as normal since it wouldn't need to be removed often, if at all. 

 

Beyond those things, I was going to use a timer on one of the Waste tank pins on a relay. It would "open" every 15 minutes and close to reset the ink levels, in total about 1 second. Even while printing this wouldn't cause any issues at all, it wouldn't even stop printing.  worry free self resetting ink while printing.

 

I already had it setup to roll print and tested that for about a half roll/ 3/4 roll of film. So with those things the final outcome:

 

An actual ink system/damper system in place without the risk of settling, leaking, or any of that crap. 

White ink recirculation

No more mid print stops or worrysome ink resets. 

 

You could essentially roll print an entire 320 foot roll in about 27 hours of printing on the machine without stopping, other than for head cleans as needed. Personally I would add a fan as a precaution to the mainboard. 

 

That was where it was going anyway pretty successfully. Then I got busy and had to stop " tinkering" and find something that worked quickly and right away. 

Ever since it hasn't stopped and haven't had a time to revisit.

 

It could be replicated pretty easily with a caliper and a resin printer. 

Edited by johnson4
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i have all the tools, Laser cutter, soldering irons, resin and FDM printers. im very much interested in playing with this concept. If it works out like you think, it would be a game changer on DIY DTF printers. you have started something fantastic. my email is in one of the above messages, and i'd give you credit for the design and idea. i'lll just do the grunt work.

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3 hours ago, Jimmystanley37 said:

i have all the tools, Laser cutter, soldering irons, resin and FDM printers. im very much interested in playing with this concept. If it works out like you think, it would be a game changer on DIY DTF printers. you have started something fantastic. my email is in one of the above messages, and i'd give you credit for the design and idea. i'lll just do the grunt work.

I’m fine with sharing it, I just have to find it. I have tons of files intertwined so the various version- which I wasn’t good at properly naming, haha.

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  • 2 months later...
2 hours ago, Jimmy Stanley said:

Just checking to see if you were able to find the 3d files you  started?

Unfortunately I have been busy and haven't had much time to look for them. Lesson learned on keeping better track and names on the files. 

 

A caliper and maybe an hour and it can be recreated. Another user posted a better solution to these, using the OEM carts and the damper attached to the cartridge yielded better results. 

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oh i understand, this last few months with the holidays kicked my butt too. i will have to look for the other post you are talking about. i also started with my calipers and haven't finished the one i started either, lol! thanks for the response

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1 hour ago, Jimmy Stanley said:

i'll have to find the post about the OEM and damper. i found one using aftermarket carts and inline damper

The inline damper is the right one. Those dampers are dirt cheap and slip right in the cartridge. It should stop any leaking or need to remove them. With a damper the cartridge doesn’t need to be full anyway. 
 

of course I still like my idea though ;)

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yei did order some 

Quote

yes, i like yours as well. i found the post you referenced and reached out to the OP. seems the inline dampers i have don't fit tight and he said he superglued them. i lost my dang cheapo harbor freight calipers, so i need a new set. i am going to go forward with your original idea. i am really curious about how you were planning to do the waste tank/ink reset,, my printer does not pause when it runs out of ink (i have seen one person that showed a video of hers pausing mid print for her to reset the ink) mine just wants to eject/feed the roll of film out until it stops with a "paper jam".  i did find some closed cell neoprene foam so now i need to measure the rubber boot so i can make an svg and cut some with the laser.....i hope 1/6th was correct, 1/8 seemed to thick, but in retrospect it might make for a better seal.  i was comparing the et8550 dampers, and thought about trying to retro fit them, but can not seem to find replacements for them. anyway, if you come across your original file, i'd still love it, and any more info you have to pass along.

one more thing i am looking to change is the stupid weak spot where the chip reader screws into the carriage on the back. i considered trying to remove the carriage and 3d print a more robust version, but the removal process looks a little daunting.

 

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On 20/1/2022 at 17:30, johnson4 said:

Questi ammortizzatori sono più grandi di quelli che verranno utilizzati per questo. Mi aspetto molte revisioni e problemi lungo la strada. Ma tutto si adatta e sigilla perfettamente. Ora per stamparli effettivamente per l'uso anziché per il montaggio. La "porta" non si rompe perché si assottiglia e lo smorzatore è perfettamente inserito in posizione. Non c'è spazio per dimenarsi e romperlo. Quindi ha funzionato bene (finora)... 

EF872DFA-4E88-4461-95FD-DEED8A8DD6A8.jpeg

3D934930-97DC-4998-B318-07AF44BB2C88.jpeg

D1CB061B-CF69-427D-BC7B-C2FB78F9B86E.jpeg

46EA8A30-578A-456B-B660-C506CD415EB0.jpeg

Hello New to this project? I wrote you in private thank you very much

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