Anyone with electrical knowledge have any idea how to repair a part of the mini shaker?

[johnson4]

32 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I have another motor (the 15rpm one) that I'll replace if this one goes completely dead (since I've had it connected to this 500w transformer the past few weeks) and if that one goes bad, I'll just replace all of the internal parts. That has fix everything if everything is replaced.

Yea, internally it’s pretty simple.

2 speed controllers, 2 solid state relays ( 10amp/25amp) one Temperature controller, one power supply. 
 

if it’s not the 500W inverter, the next thing id replace is the internal power supply if the issues are with the shaker and duster. I don’t see the relays or temperature controller causing any issues. 

[Mdrake2016]

On 10/28/2021 at 11:57 AM, johnson4 said:

Yea, internally it’s pretty simple.

2 speed controllers, 2 solid state relays ( 10amp/25amp) one Temperature controller, one power supply. 
 

if it’s not the 500W inverter, the next thing id replace is the internal power supply if the issues are with the shaker and duster. I don’t see the relays or temperature controller causing any issues. 

I got the 3000W converter yesterday...used it today and the motor died after about 10 seconds. So I think (I hope) it was just shot from using the 500 watt one previously. I'll have to replce it with my 15RPM one this week and see if the problem is resolved. 

[johnson4]

4 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I got the 3000W converter yesterday...used it today and the motor died after about 10 seconds. So I think (I hope) it was just shot from using the 500 watt one previously. I'll have to replce it with my 15RPM one this week and see if the problem is resolved. 

Cool, hopefully it works out better. I’m working on the two I have and getting them situated so I can retire my DIY cart. 

[Mdrake2016]

On 11/2/2021 at 7:29 PM, johnson4 said:

Cool, hopefully it works out better. I’m working on the two I have and getting them situated so I can retire my DIY cart. 

Got it replaced...same issues. Motor dies out after a few seconds. Turn it off and let it rest and then it tries working again for a few seconds and then dies again.

I'm frustrated out of my mind with this thing. I'm going to have to take it apart and find out exactly what I have to replace. Hopefully there are clear model numbers on the parts so I know exactly what to buy.

[Mdrake2016]

I opened the panel where the switches are and swapped the wiring on the relays and the speed dials....and the shaker works fine no matter which relay and dial it's connected to.

So at this point, it does look like the only other thing it could be is the power supply.

[johnson4]

15 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I opened the panel where the switches are and swapped the wiring on the relays and the speed dials....and the shaker works fine no matter which relay and dial it's connected to.

So at this point, it does look like the only other thing it could be is the power supply.

Yea, that’s literally the only thing left. 

[johnson4]

This is what’s in my new shaker:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-MKASYON-Switching-Converter-Security/dp/B07GFMG7F7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=39X9X7033NRG8&keywords=AC+110V%2F220V+to+DC+24V+2A+48W+Power+Supply+Transformer+Switch%2CMKASYON+AC%2FDC+Switching+Adapter+Converter+Driver+for+LED+Strip+Light%2CCCTV+Camera%2CSecurity+System+Computer+Project%2CRadio+and+More+(24V2A)&qid=1636048305&sprefix=ac+110v%2F220v+to+dc+24v+2a+48w+power+supply+transformer+switch%2Cmkasyon+ac%2Fdc+switching+adapter+converter+driver+for+led+strip+light%2Ccctv+camera%2Csecurity+system+computer+project%2Cradio+and+more+24v2a+%2Caps%2C547&sr=8-1

 

24V 2A.

[Mdrake2016]

6 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

This is what’s in my new shaker:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-MKASYON-Switching-Converter-Security/dp/B07GFMG7F7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=39X9X7033NRG8&keywords=AC+110V%2F220V+to+DC+24V+2A+48W+Power+Supply+Transformer+Switch%2CMKASYON+AC%2FDC+Switching+Adapter+Converter+Driver+for+LED+Strip+Light%2CCCTV+Camera%2CSecurity+System+Computer+Project%2CRadio+and+More+(24V2A)&qid=1636048305&sprefix=ac+110v%2F220v+to+dc+24v+2a+48w+power+supply+transformer+switch%2Cmkasyon+ac%2Fdc+switching+adapter+converter+driver+for+led+strip+light%2Ccctv+camera%2Csecurity+system+computer+project%2Cradio+and+more+24v2a+%2Caps%2C547&sr=8-1

 

24V 2A.

I will order that but I did some further testing just now...

My brother has been trying to help with this and he had me try a few things...basically, I removed the screw that connects the brush to the motor. After I turned the motor on to see what would happen, it began spinning (brush didn't spin of course since I removed the screw). So the motor still works...and it spun like it was brand new. So basically, when the motor is connected to the brush is when it gets stuck and stops.

When putting the new motor in, I did notice that the brush had to be pushed down pretty hard to get it to line up with the motor. So there is A LOT of friction between the brush and the metal tray even without powder in it. With powder in it, it just completely stops.

Does that still sound like a power supply issue to you?

[johnson4]

7 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I will order that but I did some further testing just now...

My brother has been trying to help with this and he had me try a few things...basically, I removed the screw that connects the brush to the motor. After I turned the motor on to see what would happen, it began spinning (brush didn't spin of course since I removed the screw). So the motor still works...and it spun like it was brand new. So basically, when the motor is connected to the brush is when it gets stuck and stops.

When putting the new motor in, I did notice that the brush had to be pushed down pretty hard to get it to line up with the motor. So there is A LOT of friction between the brush and the metal tray even without powder in it. With powder in it, it just completely stops.

Does that still sound like a power supply issue to you?

No, that sounds like it’s binding. The brush should barely rub the bottom of the tray. 

[johnson4]

Idk if this helps…

[johnson4]

That’s with the screw loose of course. 

[Mdrake2016]

8 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

Idk if this helps…

FullSizeRender.mov

I don't know whats going on with this site...these videos never load.

[Mdrake2016]

We're taking this thing apart again and I think I know what's causing the extra friction. The holes on the motor didn't line up with the holes on the metal tray from the shaker when I put it together. I had to grind it down a bit (less than a millimeter). I'm not sure if this could be the main issue or not.

[johnson4]

1 minute ago, Mdrake2016 said:

We're taking this thing apart again and I think I know what's causing the extra friction. The holes on the motor didn't line up with the holes on the metal tray from the shaker when I put it together. I had to grind it down a bit (less than a millimeter). I'm not sure if this could be the main issue or not.

Yea, that could cause it. My video just shows my spinning the roller easily with the motor disconnected. These are the motors I used in my first shaker, and look identical to the 2nd shaker, but as we’ve found out that could be wrong. 
 

as far as I’m aware, they only have one bolt pattern for this size, and that’s what we are using. Again though, I could be wrong. 

[johnson4]

You know something you could do if that’s the issue, drill the holes a bit bigger and add a washer to the bolts( if needed), giving you some wiggle room for adjustments on the motor side. 
 

Either way, I’d love to see/hear how it’s going. 

Edited November 4, 2021 by johnson4

[Mdrake2016]

6 hours ago, johnson4 said:

You know something you could do if that’s the issue, drill the holes a bit bigger and add a washer to the bolts( if needed), giving you some wiggle room for adjustments on the motor side. 
 

Either way, I’d love to see/hear how it’s going. 

We just finished doing this...had to raise everything about 2mm actually. Now when the brush sits in the tray, it aligns perfectly with the motor before attaching it (I had to always force it down to align it before). I filled it to the top and running it at around 45% with the 15 RPM motor.

I'm pretty confident this has been the issue this whole time since this 15rpm motor that I said "died after about 10 seconds" has been working now for about 20 minutes. I hear a strain but I believe you said yours does that too right?

[johnson4]

1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

We just finished doing this...had to raise everything about 2mm actually. Now when the brush sits in the tray, it aligns perfectly with the motor before attaching it (I had to always force it down to align it before). I filled it to the top and running it at around 45% with the 15 RPM motor.

I'm pretty confident this has been the issue this whole time since this 15rpm motor that I said "died after about 10 seconds" has been working now for about 20 minutes. I hear a strain but I believe you said yours does that too right?

It does, so I wouldn’t worry about it if the powder comes out like it should. 
 

im extremely happy that you got it fixed, that’s awesome. 
 

the great thing is, in the future, you know the unit inside out basically. Issues should be easily resolved, at least easier. You also have a better converter that can handle the load continuously without issue. 500W was still under powered. 
 

i know I have extra in hand:

extra speed controller

extra relays for both machines

extra temperature controller for both. 
 

extra motors and silicon slapper.( found a 3rpm motor same as the duster on the take up reel, so keeping those in hand for sure).
 

I don’t know what types of prints you do, but black/white only this thing does 40 prints an hour easily. 20 ish for cmykw. Definitely worth it. 
 

good luck and I wish you much success! 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by johnson4

[Mdrake2016]

16 hours ago, johnson4 said:

It does, so I wouldn’t worry about it if the powder comes out like it should. 
 

im extremely happy that you got it fixed, that’s awesome. 
 

the great thing is, in the future, you know the unit inside out basically. Issues should be easily resolved, at least easier. You also have a better converter that can handle the load continuously without issue. 500W was still under powered. 
 

i know I have extra in hand:

extra speed controller

extra relays for both machines

extra temperature controller for both. 
 

extra motors and silicon slapper.( found a 3rpm motor same as the duster on the take up reel, so keeping those in hand for sure).
 

I don’t know what types of prints you do, but black/white only this thing does 40 prints an hour easily. 20 ish for cmykw. Definitely worth it. 
 

good luck and I wish you much success! 

 

 

Thanks for all you’re help man. The brush roller has been working fine since 8am this morning. Wondering if I can still use the 12v motors as a backup even though this system uses 24v. 
 

But yea since I took this whole machine apart pretty much, I know where to look if I need to replace something. Finding the replacement parts might be the biggest hassle. I was looking at brushes yesterday but couldn’t find the exact one anywhere. 

I bought the speed dials and relays about a month ago but I’m not sure if it’ll work with this machine because neither of us were aware that my machine was different than yours. So if you ever need any of these let me know and I’ll send them over to you if I can’t use them. 

[johnson4]

4 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:

Thanks for all you’re help man. The brush roller has been working fine since 8am this morning. Wondering if I can still use the 12v motors as a backup even though this system uses 24v. 
 

But yea since I took this whole machine apart pretty much, I know where to look if I need to replace something. Finding the replacement parts might be the biggest hassle. I was looking at brushes yesterday but couldn’t find the exact one anywhere. 

I bought the speed dials and relays about a month ago but I’m not sure if it’ll work with this machine because neither of us were aware that my machine was different than yours. So if you ever need any of these let me know and I’ll send them over to you if I can’t use them. 

The speed controllers were the same, the relays unfortunately are not. Your relays are solid state relays.

 

if you want, I can make a list with links for the parts of the machine, the ones that would go bad anyway. I know I have to keep two different sets now since they are both different. 
 

the 12V motors could probably work with the speed controller turned down a lot- but I’m not sure, I know they’ll wear out much faster or burn up if too much for too long occurs. 
 

 

glad that’s the answer though. I’m working on mine right now, setting up the 2nd p800 and retiring my cart build. Good luck out there! 

[johnson4]

I’m going to be honest, I really don’t like this 2nd shaker at all. It can’t keep a temperature and overheats, the slapper is so badly aligned it broke the welds when I turned it on, and it has a 3” exhaust port. 
 

the temperature controller it uses sucks compared to the first one I have, even though they are both the same “ model” controller.
 

ive ordered another controller/relay/ coupler combo, going to whip out the welder and drill and see what I can come up with. Already ordered the 4” adapter. 
 

here’s to another fun week. 

Edited November 8, 2021 by johnson4

[johnson4]

Yep- when filled with powder mine will slowly come to a stop as well.

[johnson4]

And now my motor is burning out too. 

[Mdrake2016]

On 11/7/2021 at 6:50 PM, johnson4 said:

And now my motor is burning out too. 

This unfortunately is happening to mine again. It's driving me insane at this point. I had it at 45% the first few days and today I have it at around 60%, and it's now coming to a stop.

So since this machine uses pretty much the same motor as your first machine, what could be causing the motor to burn out like this? 

On 11/7/2021 at 6:06 PM, johnson4 said:

I’m going to be honest, I really don’t like this 2nd shaker at all. It can’t keep a temperature and overheats, the slapper is so badly aligned it broke the welds when I turned it on, and it has a 3” exhaust port. 
 

the temperature controller it uses sucks compared to the first one I have, even though they are both the same “ model” controller.
 

ive ordered another controller/relay/ coupler combo, going to whip out the welder and drill and see what I can come up with. Already ordered the 4” adapter. 
 

here’s to another fun week. 

Mine actually has a 2" exhaust port. I knew from day 1 it's pretty much useless. I think I'm going to just make a fan ventilator and get it to shoot out of my window or something.

[Mdrake2016]

I noticed just today that the powder is not coming through the original holes in the duster. I lifted it while it was working and it was only coming out of the 10ish holes that I drilled. That’s definitely a problem. 

[johnson4]

1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

This unfortunately is happening to mine again. It's driving me insane at this point. I had it at 45% the first few days and today I have it at around 60%, and it's now coming to a stop.

So since this machine uses pretty much the same motor as your first machine, what could be causing the motor to burn out like this? 

Mine actually has a 2" exhaust port. I knew from day 1 it's pretty much useless. I think I'm going to just make a fan ventilator and get it to shoot out of my window or something.

I just eyeballed it, this one is probably the same. I ended up 3D printing an adapter that goes around the existing pipe to attach to my 4" Hvac hose. 

So, I compared my two units as closely as I could in the middle of the night, as well as compared it to several units I found online with detailed photos. 

 

This mini shaker I have, Heats and works fine until you put a fan on it. I mean, any fan, any CFM( enough to pull the fumes out anyway) makes it cool down and it won't hold a temp. Adding the aluminum sheet helped, but the main problem is the holes in the lid are easily 5-10 times bigger than they should be. the mini shaker that holds temps perfectly, has tiny holes, maybe .2 inches in diameter. These holes on this mini shaker is closer to half an inch. To top that off, the holes line up exactly with the heating elements, making the heat rise and go out of the holes. The other shaker isn't like this.

 

Basically, it's pulling cold air in there over the elements and temp probe and it won't keep temp, due to too much airflow ( any airflow down to so little it doesn't even suck the fumes). I used aluminum Hvac tape, took the lid apart and taped all the holes on the backside. Then, I poked holes in the foil tape to emulate the other machine, for a total of 8 open holes NOT above the elements. NOW it holds a temp and allows the fumes to be pulled out. Straight up design flaw. Is this necessary? I Don't know, but it's working now for me. 

 

Another thing to watch out for, that I DO NOT like. The old mini shaker uses the same 3RPM motor as the duster on the take up reel, 12V. The NEW shaker uses 220V. so, a bad connector, scraped wire, etc, you are exposing yourself to 220V of electricity. Not really an issue per say, but I don't like it. 

 

So, I've gotten past the fume extraction, it reaching and holding a temperature, and even heating. The duster on mine puts out WAYY to much powder, consistently. Block some of the holes, and they clog too much and stop putting out powder. Turn it down to 1/4 or so, and it won't rotate. So, I'm just going to add an external 24V timer, turn the duster on full blast and use the timer to be on X seconds and off X seconds, whatever that may be to keep a good pillow of powder in the bottom. My goal isn't the "curtain" of powder coming out, but rather a small pile of powder at the bottom of the U, which works great, better than the curtain in my opinion. I'll be looking for a 24V 2rpm motor to replace the 5RPM one with. ( the lower the RPM, the higher the torque when it comes to geared motors). I also had to realign the lid, from factory they installed it crooked to cover up the fact that one side of my shaker is longer than the other ( which is also why the welds broke when I turned on the slapper).

 

Aside from that and the underpowered stock duster motor, it seems like it will work fine.