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Anyone with electrical knowledge have any idea how to repair a part of the mini shaker?


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12 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

One more thing I just noticed...the slapper seems to be going much faster now (at 25%) than before. It's like I have it up to 50% or higher.

I’m not entirely sure, I would assume this is related to the other issue and go away with the correction of the other issue.  or it’s “aftermath” damage to the speed controller/power supply. If you have a volt meter, testing the power going to the motor. Is easy and should read 12V.  
 

 

I want to note something important. The original shaker I have worked on 12V. This ones working on 24V. Did the motor you remove say 12 or 24V? The one I sent you was 12V, as that is what my shaker took at the time before receiving this other version.

 

 

Edited by johnson4
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So- if you installed a 12V motor where a 24V motor goes, that’s why it’s burning out. 
 

it should have been a 24V version IF yours said 24V on it when being removed. for the new shaker, which all they have is 15 RPM and 5RPM, stock was 10.rpm. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Eccentric-Diameter/dp/B08FBCNNN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=24V%2B10rpm&qid=1634233343&sr=8-15&th=1&psc=1

 

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5 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

That is actually the exact one that was in my shaker. So does it sound like putting a 24V in will resolve these issues?

I would say so, yes. What you are describing is pointing exactly to that. That’s also why your 12v motors keep burning up. 

 

If I had to choose, I’d go with the 15rpm motor, I’m going to assume it’s faster due to the smaller holes. Can always turn it down, can’t turn the 5 up. 
 

if I were you, I’d also order a spare speed controller, I sent a link before. They are like $7. It’s not worth the down time if you have that issue later on.

 

Edited by johnson4
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5 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

I would say so, yes. What you are describing is pointing exactly to that. That’s also why your 12v motors keep burning up. 

 

If I had to choose, I’d go with the 15rpm motor, I’m going to assume it’s faster due to the smaller holes. Can always turn it down, can’t turn the 5 up. 
 

if I were you, I’d also order a spare speed controller, I sent a link before. They are like $7. It’s not worth the down time if you have that issue later on.

 

The 5RPM actually seemed too fast for me when I had it at full speed, the powder went in way too fast. I thought I saw a post somewhere on here from you saying that a higher RPM won't be able to slow down too much...that it will stop or something? Might be misremembering that.

I ordered the speed controllers...2 of them this morning. The relays you mentioned from Omron are also coming in today. Looks like most of the internal parts on this machine should just be changed.

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36 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

The 5RPM actually seemed too fast for me when I had it at full speed, the powder went in way too fast. I thought I saw a post somewhere on here from you saying that a higher RPM won't be able to slow down too much...that it will stop or something? Might be misremembering that.

I ordered the speed controllers...2 of them this morning. The relays you mentioned from Omron are also coming in today. Looks like most of the internal parts on this machine should just be changed.

A 12V motor running on 24v will run *theoretically* twice as fast. It’s not linear, but in general. So whatever speed you were getting with the motor you bought, would be faster than rated. 
 

that is true about the higher RPM, this one was originally designed with a 10RPM motor though. That and 24V motors have a wider range of functionality than 12V, at least in my experience. I’m assuming slower is going to be worse, because you mentioned you couldn’t get yours to go fast enough under load. It’s up to you though. With my original shaker 5rpm is almost too much, mine runs better turned down about halfway with the 5rpm motor, so like 2.5rpm. I don’t know with this one since it was originally 10RPM and has smaller holes. That’s going to be up to you and what you think with yours. I haven’t used it yet. 

 

as for the relays, I mentioned after receiving this new one, it doesn’t use mechanical relays, rather solid state relays. So my original shaker takes those Omron relays, but this new one doesn’t. 
 

I think the main issue here is the fact that they look the same, but aren’t even close and originally my version was different than yours. Without photos of your stuff, I was giving you the wrong voltage. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/14/2021 at 2:00 PM, johnson4 said:

A 12V motor running on 24v will run *theoretically* twice as fast. It’s not linear, but in general. So whatever speed you were getting with the motor you bought, would be faster than rated. 
 

that is true about the higher RPM, this one was originally designed with a 10RPM motor though. That and 24V motors have a wider range of functionality than 12V, at least in my experience. I’m assuming slower is going to be worse, because you mentioned you couldn’t get yours to go fast enough under load. It’s up to you though. With my original shaker 5rpm is almost too much, mine runs better turned down about halfway with the 5rpm motor, so like 2.5rpm. I don’t know with this one since it was originally 10RPM and has smaller holes. That’s going to be up to you and what you think with yours. I haven’t used it yet. 

 

as for the relays, I mentioned after receiving this new one, it doesn’t use mechanical relays, rather solid state relays. So my original shaker takes those Omron relays, but this new one doesn’t. 
 

I think the main issue here is the fact that they look the same, but aren’t even close and originally my version was different than yours. Without photos of your stuff, I was giving you the wrong voltage. 

Ok so there's something definitely wrong with the machine, other than the motor. Today, after about 4 hours of printing, the motor stopped. Halfway through, the heater stopped. The other day, the shaker stopped. I had to keep turning it on and off and turning the knobs all the way down, giving it a minute or 2 and then turning it back on to get them started.

Half the time his week, the heater wouldn't turn on on the first attempt.

After the brush roller stopped just now, I turned off the shaker and the curing, and then turned the brush roller back on, it began working, but only after I turned it up to around 75% (I have the 5rpm one on right now).

Does this sound like a power supply issue to you?

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37 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

Ok so there's something definitely wrong with the machine, other than the motor. Today, after about 4 hours of printing, the motor stopped. Halfway through, the heater stopped. The other day, the shaker stopped. I had to keep turning it on and off and turning the knobs all the way down, giving it a minute or 2 and then turning it back on to get them started.

Half the time his week, the heater wouldn't turn on on the first attempt.

After the brush roller stopped just now, I turned off the shaker and the curing, and then turned the brush roller back on, it began working, but only after I turned it up to around 75% (I have the 5rpm one on right now).

Does this sound like a power supply issue to you?

It sounds like it’s possible, I’ll check and see. 
 

can I ask, what converter are you using and how many watts? Also, is that hooked to a 20 amp outlet? 

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14 hours ago, johnson4 said:

It sounds like it’s possible, I’ll check and see. 
 

can I ask, what converter are you using and how many watts? Also, is that hooked to a 20 amp outlet? 



Just to be detailed, here’s everything I do:

This is the converter I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MPR3XQ/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve had the converter, printer, laptop charger and zebra label printer connected to this power strip (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017VXU6GG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) which connects to a 50ft cord running from my sunroom down to the laundry outlet which is 20 amp...this is the cord I use: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-50ft-12-3-Outdoor-Extension-Cord-657-123050RL6A/302877747?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_THANKYOU-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WG17484343)

I believe I don’t have any other 20 amp outlets which is why I use the long cord. 

This past week, this setup has been tripping that outlet (the Reset button on the outlet keeps depressing after a couple minutes of printing). Prior to this week, I had been doing this for about 2 months and I had a Flash dryer connected to the power strip too during that time but never had this tripping issue. So because it keeps tripping now, I connected the power strip to a regular outlet (it MAY be a 10 amp or 15 amp...not completely sure but most are 10 amps in this house because it’s pretty old).

Since connecting to this different outlet, the warning light has been lit on the power strip. So this may be the issue. Today, I’m going to try connecting the shaker alone to the 20 amp outlet and see if that works. 

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Testing just now...this is what's happening:

1. The 20 amp breaker even when connecting the shaker directly through the converter trips as soon as I flip the switch for the curing and the dusting at the same time. This wasn't happening at all the past few months. When using a 10 or 15 amp outlet, so far it hasn't tripped anything in the large circuit breaker for the house. (forgive me if my terminology is off....I know 0 about electrical stuff)

2. The brush roller is acting like it did before....if adding more than half full of powder, it slows down to a halt. I turn it off and let it rest, and then it starts working again but slowly. I thought it completely died a minute ago but I removed most of the powder, let it rest and now it's been working for the past 15 minutes. It's at full speed, but it's rotating as if it's on half speed.

It just sounds like electrical issues to me....I highly doubt all of these motors are just bad. I bought the Speed controllers you  suggested to look at a few pages back, but I'm not sure I can use them in this machine since it's different than the first one you had.

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2 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:



Just to be detailed, here’s everything I do:

This is the converter I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MPR3XQ/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve had the converter, printer, laptop charger and zebra label printer connected to this power strip (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017VXU6GG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) which connects to a 50ft cord running from my sunroom down to the laundry outlet which is 20 amp...this is the cord I use: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-50ft-12-3-Outdoor-Extension-Cord-657-123050RL6A/302877747?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_THANKYOU-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WG17484343)

I believe I don’t have any other 20 amp outlets which is why I use the long cord. 

This past week, this setup has been tripping that outlet (the Reset button on the outlet keeps depressing after a couple minutes of printing). Prior to this week, I had been doing this for about 2 months and I had a Flash dryer connected to the power strip too during that time but never had this tripping issue. So because it keeps tripping now, I connected the power strip to a regular outlet (it MAY be a 10 amp or 15 amp...not completely sure but most are 10 amps in this house because it’s pretty old).

Since connecting to this different outlet, the warning light has been lit on the power strip. So this may be the issue. Today, I’m going to try connecting the shaker alone to the 20 amp outlet and see if that works. 

This is a big problem I think. 
 

1. The power converter you sent says it’s 500W. You need at least3000W. The converters say to run it at 50 percent load, and the mini shaker pulls 1500W alone, so 3000W. 
 

2. electricity doesn’t work that way. Let me explain. 
 

voltage drop. Let’s say when your house was made, they ran 14 garage wire. The max is 15 amps at that outlet.

Now let’s say they ran 12 gauge wire. The max is 20 Amps at that outlet. 

 

HOWEVER, electricity has its limitations. After about 60 feet, the voltage drop is significant enough to cause that same gauge wire to drop a rating. So, a 12 gauge  wire ran 100 feet, would only be good for 15 amps, 14 gauge would be good for less than 10 and is not normally done or allowed. 
 

the reason for this, with electricity, the voltage( pressure/potential)  is half of the equation for how many amps( flow of electricity) it needs. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance, so the lower the voltage, which makes it require more amps, which creates more heat and even a fire hazard.  
 

so, 120V X 20Amps= 2400 watts. ( normal)

so 100VX20 amps= 2000 watts. 


 

 

with voltage sag, the maximum allowed amount is 5 percent of 120V.  This depends on the power factor ( type of load). 
 

but what I’m saying is, you can’t just extend electricity without reducing the allowed current. So after 100 feet, that outlet can only handle 15 amps (including the house wiring and extension cord). 


 

if your popping the breaker, you have an issue. My shaker runs at max 1100 watts from when I tested it. It would easily run on a 15 amp breaker- that doesn’t have voltage drop. 

if you are using a 500w converter, your are under powering  your machine and overloading your converter. Mixed with possible power limitations at the outlet- lots of problems which can damage the converter, heating elements in the shaker, and even cause a fire. 
 

so I would recommend using a 15 amp outlet with a 3000W converter at minimum. ( remember these are circuits, not 15 amps per outlet, rather per circuit, so technically 15A per circuit) No 50ft extension. 
 

probably fix your issues. You can buy a meter for $15 on Amazon and test your outlets voltage before and after the cord if needed. 115V volts is fine, anything less, I wouldn’t use it ( with or without the extension cord). 
 

 

 

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There are a ton of variables when you talk about this. But I want to be simple.
 

Breakers do go bad. If your using GFCI, that might flip your breaker too. Ground Fault, is there to flip the breaker if it detects ANY potential difference on the ground, to protect you. 
 

im not an electrician, so I’m only speaking of opinion here, since mistakes in this category can cause a house fire or worse. 
 

following the proper power requirements is a must. 
 

The speed controllers work/mount the same on both units. 
 

I’ll check and see if there is anything aside from the main power that would affect all of these things as you have described.

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Turns out I can’t show you an example, I don’t have any inadequate cords or outlets. I’m like 10 feet away from my breaker box. If anything though, running a 500w converter alone would cause issues. 
 

anyway, hopefully you get the point though.  I’m using two of these. I found some for $79 on Amazon, and next time will go with those. Ignore the hot glue, the converter outlet clips broke so it kept falling inside. That was my temporary solution. 

6B041392-2E6C-433E-8E0F-FD466C60AD34.jpeg

Edited by johnson4
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29 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

Turns out I can’t show you an example, I don’t have any inadequate cords or outlets. I’m like 10 feet away from my breaker box. If anything though, running a 500w converter alone would cause issues. 
 

anyway, hopefully you get the point though.  I’m using two of these. I found some for $79 on Amazon, and next time will go with those. Ignore the hot glue, the converter outlet clips broke so it kept falling inside. That was my temporary solution. 

6B041392-2E6C-433E-8E0F-FD466C60AD34.jpeg

 

6 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

I also want to point out, your surge protector is only rated for 15 amps for what I can find. 

Jesus...I used to understand this stuff way more (used to put together sound systems as a side thing over 10 years ago) and it’s completely been wiped out of my memory...it’s learning from scratch once again and I feel unbelievably idiotic for just buying these things blindly. 
 

I will buy a meter like yours and go with that $80 converter tomorrow and see how it goes. I’m in a shitty house and I’m not sure the outlets are sufficient...it may be worth getting our electrician out here to upgrade some of these things. 

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59 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

if you are using a 500w converter, your are under powering  your machine and overloading your converter. Mixed with possible power limitations at the outlet- lots of problems which can damage the converter, heating elements in the shaker, and even cause a fire. 

 

 

About this comment...at first thought, I would think if I’m under powering the shaker, then these motors wouldn’t be going bad. But the instability of the converter since I’m overpowering it could still damage the parts from the shaker correct?

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52 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

It would work, but honestly looks of lesser quality, as well the power switch is in the back, but that’s up to you. 

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1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

About this comment...at first thought, I would think if I’m under powering the shaker, then these motors wouldn’t be going bad. But the instability of the converter since I’m overpowering it could still damage the parts from the shaker correct?

Yes, absolutely. I don’t think it would affect the motors much, rather the power supply powering the motors and the heating elements. Andy included the 3000W inverter with my purchase, which might be overkill.

Personally I think the wattage rating is based on the output, not the input, so a 1500W/2000W converter would work just as good with good overhead. 
 

My 3000W gets pretty warm after 6-8 hours of use, but no electrical issue so far. 
 

not to point you in the wrong direction, but maybe the converter is overheating, causing power issues. If not, it doesn’t make sense to me either. 
 

I forget things all the time, no worries. Important part is getting you running. 

Edited by johnson4
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6 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

not to point you in the wrong direction, but maybe the converter is overheating, causing power issues. If not, it doesn’t make sense to me either. 

I have another motor (the 15rpm one) that I'll replace if this one goes completely dead (since I've had it connected to this 500w transformer the past few weeks) and if that one goes bad, I'll just replace all of the internal parts. That has fix everything if everything is replaced.

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