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Anyone with electrical knowledge have any idea how to repair a part of the mini shaker?


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If you decide to swap the duster/shaker controllers to rule that out, I circled where it’s labeled “motor”. Just take those two wires loose on both units and swap them to the other unit in the same position. 

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If the shaker part works fine, then I doubt it’s the power supply leaving the controller and new motor, in my opinion, possibly the motor, or even it was installed in a bind causing an issue to the new motor. 
 

If you have any questions or updates- I’ll be here :) 

Edited by johnson4
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7 hours ago, johnson4 said:

This is behind the main panel showing the motor controller-

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It looks like they are using 555ic for pwm speed control 

 

N there is no microcontroller in mini shaker 

Edited by Mr.Carter
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7 hours ago, johnson4 said:

To take the entire unit out remove the two bolts on both sides- on both side of the motor and both sides of the bearing, then slide them out of the way. Warning, it’s a PITA since the heads are next to the brush inside. 

730751D8-0283-44E9-B5F8-DA8C4CD8C5F8.jpeg

68685331-015D-4B4B-BC28-8C2AD03D2836.jpeg

Ok so no extra space here we can't replace motor with bigger one

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7 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

Ok so no extra space here we can't replace motor with bigger one

You could if you cut a hole in the side, but it isn’t necessary. The 5rpm motor I received can’t be stopped by hand and handles 5+ lbs of powder in the hopper. 
 

likely it’s just a defective motor, or it was installed slightly off center causing it to bind or something. 
 

mine originally did similar , it would just stop working after some time, and work again later. It would slow and slow until it didn’t work until I let it sit. Also, half of the rotation it sounded strained even with no powder. The motor still sounds like that when nothing is connected to it. The replacement motor didn’t do that and worked fine, for me anyway. 
 

so far the main issues I’ve had with the mini shaker:

1. Duster motor

2. Poor quality relays causing high amperage draw and failing. Probably one of the reasons others experience failing heating tubes. 

3. The take up roller walks, so I put a guide in it. 
4. the slapper blade is getting damaged by the bolts holding it to the bearings, but in a way that doesn’t affect functionality. 
 

Haven’t had an issue since, yet. It’s ran for maybe 1000 hours so far. 

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1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

You could if you cut a hole in the side, but it isn’t necessary. The 5rpm motor I received can’t be stopped by hand and handles 5+ lbs of powder in the hopper. 
 

likely it’s just a defective motor, or it was installed slightly off center causing it to bind or something. 
 

mine originally did similar , it would just stop working after some time, and work again later. It would slow and slow until it didn’t work until I let it sit. Also, half of the rotation it sounded strained even with no powder. The motor still sounds like that when nothing is connected to it. The replacement motor didn’t do that and worked fine, for me anyway. 
 

so far the main issues I’ve had with the mini shaker:

1. Duster motor

2. Poor quality relays causing high amperage draw and failing. Probably one of the reasons others experience failing heating tubes. 

3. The take up roller walks, so I put a guide in it. 
4. the slapper blade is getting damaged by the bolts holding it to the bearings, but in a way that doesn’t affect functionality. 
 

Haven’t had an issue since, yet. It’s ran for maybe 1000 hours so far. 

If there is space then you can replace it with this kind of motor bigger size heavy duty motor with same gear box at top

images (18).jpeg

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On 10/2/2021 at 2:11 PM, Mr.Carter said:

Johnson we are talking here for https://www.opendtg.com/profile/8383-mdrake2016/

Where is he? Lol😂

 

On 10/2/2021 at 3:28 PM, johnson4 said:

lol yea, hopefully he got it fixed. 

Sorry guys...wanted to test further before I waste anyone's time.

Yesterday, it worked with no issues, but I didn't fill it up with powder. Today, I filled it up with a full 2.2lb of powder and it began slowing down to a complete stop. I turned that part off for about 10 min then started it back up and it began working. It looks like the extra powder is the issue.

On 10/2/2021 at 10:47 AM, johnson4 said:

You could if you cut a hole in the side, but it isn’t necessary. The 5rpm motor I received can’t be stopped by hand and handles 5+ lbs of powder in the hopper. 
 

likely it’s just a defective motor, or it was installed slightly off center causing it to bind or something. 
 

mine originally did similar , it would just stop working after some time, and work again later. It would slow and slow until it didn’t work until I let it sit. Also, half of the rotation it sounded strained even with no powder. The motor still sounds like that when nothing is connected to it. The replacement motor didn’t do that and worked fine, for me anyway. 
 

so far the main issues I’ve had with the mini shaker:

1. Duster motor

2. Poor quality relays causing high amperage draw and failing. Probably one of the reasons others experience failing heating tubes. 

3. The take up roller walks, so I put a guide in it. 
4. the slapper blade is getting damaged by the bolts holding it to the bearings, but in a way that doesn’t affect functionality. 
 

Haven’t had an issue since, yet. It’s ran for maybe 1000 hours so far. 

One thing to mention....the motor I bought from Amazon does sound like it's strained even with no powder. Before soldering it or hooking it up to the brush roller at all, I tested it just to make sure it worked and halfway through it sounded like it was straining exactly how you're describing it. So this sounds like it could be the issue correct?

I've been pretty busy this week so I haven't had the chance to swap the wiring and see if that makes any difference. I will be ordering the relays and swapping them out while I do this step as well.

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22 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

 

Sorry guys...wanted to test further before I waste anyone's time.

Yesterday, it worked with no issues, but I didn't fill it up with powder. Today, I filled it up with a full 2.2lb of powder and it began slowing down to a complete stop. I turned that part off for about 10 min then started it back up and it began working. It looks like the extra powder is the issue.

One thing to mention....the motor I bought from Amazon does sound like it's strained even with no powder. Before soldering it or hooking it up to the brush roller at all, I tested it just to make sure it worked and halfway through it sounded like it was straining exactly how you're describing it. So this sounds like it could be the issue correct?

I've been pretty busy this week so I haven't had the chance to swap the wiring and see if that makes any difference. I will be ordering the relays and swapping them out while I do this step as well.

Actually listening to it now with little powder, the straining doesn't sound as bad. It does strain a lot when I put in a lot of powder though...it's pretty clear that the powder just gets caught between the brush roller and the metal plate causing it to do that. For now, all I could really do without it stopping is let it run at 50%-100% and put in no more than 1lb of powder. 

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1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

It looks like when the powder gets piled up on the side of the motor, that's what stops it. I pushed the powder all to the other side and it worked fine. All to the motor side and it almost immediately stopped.

that is how mine sounded before I replaced it. I originally thought my motor/brush connection was crooked and caused binding. my OEM motor, unhooked to anything, does this. It actually never quit working, I just removed it for that reason. The replacement doesn't do that, if you watch my video. Personally, I would suggest swapping the motor again. The one I received at least, can easily hold 5-6lbs of powder in it, running at half speed as the video showed without struggling or an issue. 

 

If the motor did it at all without a load on it, I would replace it. They have bearings and gears that could be of poor quality causing the issue. After all, they are like $2 motors from china with shipping, import fees and taxes added to make them cost so much. I'd imagine duds to be 50/50. I ordered one of those speed controllers, and it's the exact same thing. I ordered it as a spare. I ordered another mini shaker during andy's closeout sale, figured it's a good idea to have one on hand relying on two of them soon. 

 

overall though, the design of the powder portion works fine and doesn't cause the binding in itself, with or without powder(5+lbs) unless yours is different from mine. In my honest opinion, I would try a replacement motor, one that doesn't sound strained or binding while rotating, that's what I think it is personally after seeing your video. Even with that though, Mine still worked fine, I just feared the motor would fail mid-use. Sometimes, During busy periods, that's not worth any amount of money, so I replaced it. 

 

If your not getting enough powder, try opening up a couple holes on the bottom ( poke holes in the tape near the center). I did that, I like my U shape to be full of powder, it adds weight and pulls the film down better, makes sure everything is coated well, and overall creates tension to smack the powder off better. . Obviously if you do that you'll run through more powder, which is why I added the box on mine. 

Edited by johnson4
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2 hours ago, johnson4 said:

If your not getting enough powder, try opening up a couple holes on the bottom ( poke holes in the tape near the center). I did that, I like my U shape to be full of powder, it adds weight and pulls the film down better, makes sure everything is coated well, and overall creates tension to smack the powder off better. . Obviously if you do that you'll run through more powder, which is why I added the box on mine. 

What tape are you referring to? You mean the metal underneath the brush roller? 
 

I feel like my brush is a bit too large which is also a problem. It’s basically touching the bottom and only has about an inch on each side. 
 

I’ll buy another motor and see if that resolves everything. I did see a lot of negative reviews on Amazon...people saying that they can pinch the bar on the motor and stop it. I was trying to find a different brand but no luck. 
 

Looks like another few hours of frustration. Having minimal tools along with no room to screw/unscrew everything is a huge pain. 

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9 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

What tape are you referring to? You mean the metal underneath the brush roller? 
 

I feel like my brush is a bit too large which is also a problem. It’s basically touching the bottom and only has about an inch on each side. 
 

I’ll buy another motor and see if that resolves everything. I did see a lot of negative reviews on Amazon...people saying that they can pinch the bar on the motor and stop it. I was trying to find a different brand but no luck. 
 

Looks like another few hours of frustration. Having minimal tools along with no room to screw/unscrew everything is a huge pain. 

If you notice, most of the reviews are for the higher rpm motors. It’s all about gear reduction, the higher the rpm, the more power needed to maintain the torque. At such a low rpm, it really doesn’t require much from the motor. kinda like how you can see a rock crawler truck idle up a steep hill, vs a standard pickup, all about the gearing. That’s why for the slapper at 1000rpm, they went with a higher torque unit using a 550 motor, which has quite a bit of torque. 

Did you see the video I posted of mine? It’s the same one I sent you. 

 

 

Edited by johnson4
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1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

What tape are you referring to? You mean the metal underneath the brush roller? 
 

I feel like my brush is a bit too large which is also a problem. It’s basically touching the bottom and only has about an inch on each side. 
 

I’ll buy another motor and see if that resolves everything. I did see a lot of negative reviews on Amazon...people saying that they can pinch the bar on the motor and stop it. I was trying to find a different brand but no luck. 
 

Looks like another few hours of frustration. Having minimal tools along with no room to screw/unscrew everything is a huge pain. 

The tape on the underside- unless it's a different revision. 

If you go back through the post, I posted photo's showing how to remove the unit so the motor change is easy as long as you have the allen bolt size on hand, which also shows the tape on the underside I believe. 

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On 10/1/2021 at 9:10 PM, johnson4 said:

To take the entire unit out remove the two bolts on both sides- on both side of the motor and both sides of the bearing, then slide them out of the way. Warning, it’s a PITA since the heads are next to the brush inside. 

730751D8-0283-44E9-B5F8-DA8C4CD8C5F8.jpeg

68685331-015D-4B4B-BC28-8C2AD03D2836.jpeg

This shows the tape, and the metal plates to remove to drop the whole unit down. once you remove those plates and slide them out of the way, it's the only thing holding the whole thing together. 

Edited by johnson4
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3 hours ago, johnson4 said:

This shows the tape, and the metal plates to remove to drop the whole unit down. once you remove those plates and slide them out of the way, it's the only thing holding the whole thing together. 

I’ll try putting a few larger holes...I was thinking about that since the powder just piles up and blocks the brush from spinning. I’m sure even with a new motor it’ll be easier on it. Mine is a solid piece of steel so I will have to drill through it. 

I’ll buy another 5rpm motor and hopefully the one I got was just a bad one like you’re suspecting. Out of curiosity, did you replace the motor alone? It was impossible without another set of hands.

I also just saw your video (not sure what’s up with this website but on my computer, it gives me an error. It’s only loading on my phone). I run it pretty much at the same speed as you....would be great if I can load 5lb like you do. When the original motor was successfully working, I had to reload the powder every 30 min. 

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54 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I’ll try putting a few larger holes...I was thinking about that since the powder just piles up and blocks the brush from spinning. I’m sure even with a new motor it’ll be easier on it. Mine is a solid piece of steel so I will have to drill through it. 

I’ll buy another 5rpm motor and hopefully the one I got was just a bad one like you’re suspecting. Out of curiosity, did you replace the motor alone? It was impossible without another set of hands.

I also just saw your video (not sure what’s up with this website but on my computer, it gives me an error. It’s only loading on my phone). I run it pretty much at the same speed as you....would be great if I can load 5lb like you do. When the original motor was successfully working, I had to reload the powder every 30 min. 

Weird, it must have been a different revision. Mine has like 6 rows of holes, if not more and most are taped off. when you say larger holes, I would be careful. I don’t remember exactly at this point, but I opened like 6-8 of those tiny holes and had to re-tape most of them. 

as for assembly, yea it’s a PITA, I didn’t, but it definitely makes it easier. I do remember it was a strange position I was in trying to do it myself, lol. 
 

the clear box helps, and was in mind before I ever purchased it. I ditched the original metal tray, ( powder catcher) and immediately upgraded to a turkey pan 😂. No seriously, works much better, holds a ton more powder too and prevents pretty much any powder loss. 
 

Something I have learned to just “do” with this though. 1, I never leave any powder in there for extended periods. The powder ( left anywhere) tends to “shape” the container(powder box) it’s in after some time. Not really an issue, until those bigger pieces clog the small holes. Takes about a week for me, so I just run it empty and tap on it every other day. The tiny holes get clogged with the slightly bigger than the hole Peices, and the brush doesn’t completely clear them. 
 

I have a 2nd one on the way, so maybe it will be like yours. I’ll be doing the same to it out of the box, so if it’s not figured out by then I’ll also be doing the same. By the way, the cart build I did is still working without issue, with the “auto” powder box I added to it. Funny what you can do with a pvc pipe and hot glue, lol. I’ve considered making the mini shake have the same type of powdering system- non mechanical even though it works fine as it is. It’s just one less thing to worry about. 

 

Edited by johnson4
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I received the new one today. Did yours come with a film holder for the printer? 
 

this one is different, it uses solid state relays, so no worries on those if yours have SSR relays. It also has less holes but no tape and a few other variations. Overall a better machine than my first one. 

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On 10/8/2021 at 10:46 AM, johnson4 said:

I received the new one today. Did yours come with a film holder for the printer? 
 

this one is different, it uses solid state relays, so no worries on those if yours have SSR relays. It also has less holes but no tape and a few other variations. Overall a better machine than my first one. 

Yes mine did have a film holder for my printer. 
 

I’m taking it apart again to replace the motor. Take a look at the holes on mine...I think this is the problem. The holes are too damn small and not enough of them for the powder. When brush gets stuck, I stick my hand in there and the powder gets packed in very tight. I think I’m going to keep having these problems unless I make the holes larger. These holes are probably 1 mm wide. 

7E1ECDFE-0B4B-4EC2-BE5B-5C92AA80A915.jpeg

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