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Epson XP-15000 Setup


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9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

I found this “fake paper jam” problem to be Chipless firmware related.

It's a very scary case, and I'm using 1 print for a part because it's completely stupid.
In the case of a fake paper jam, an attempt was made to repair it by citing postings from YouTube materials and other forums, but it failed, eventually moving to the official service center, also at the official service center ---new motherboard and pe sensor were exchanged, but it worked again Serious damage to the head during one repair attempt.... Not sure if it's because of [Chipless firmware], 3 of the same [Chipless firmware: indicated by ink level pool] 2 are from another brand [Chipless firmware: ink] Volume moving display] 1 out of 3 fake paper jams.
Error message while printing without any prior warning....unlucky case -.-

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

this happens with every sheet feed printer, they make double sided film that soposedly helps. Easier to use rolls, and just cut the printed single transfer from the roll after it’s printed to avoid these issues. 

Use an air cleaner spray with a long straw to clean with a roll. Do not try the roll because it is inconvenient to use.

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

this star wheel assembly should be removed entirely, a suction fan would help a lot too

Even if only the pizza wheel is removed, there are some that are of good quality, but if not, the pizza wheel + star wheel holder assy (plastic: the paper inlet side, not the outlet side) is removed and used. Suction fan is not planned. I tested it a few times with a model with this symptom, and the conclusion is that the internal leveling problem and the strength of the ball fastening, etc... When the pizza wheel is removed, a minute deformation is expected in the star wheel holder assy parts... The conclusion is that when the star wheel holder assy is removed no big problem.

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

Even the exact same brand/type of paper will have variations due to batch differences, from my experience, including the cut size of the film, from my experience

100% empathy.   thx~

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1 hour ago, dropship88 said:

It's a very scary case, and I'm using 1 print for a part because it's completely stupid.
In the case of a fake paper jam, an attempt was made to repair it by citing postings from YouTube materials and other forums, but it failed, eventually moving to the official service center, also at the official service center ---new motherboard and pe sensor were exchanged, but it worked again Serious damage to the head during one repair attempt.... Not sure if it's because of [Chipless firmware], 3 of the same [Chipless firmware: indicated by ink level pool] 2 are from another brand [Chipless firmware: ink] Volume moving display] 1 out of 3 fake paper jams.
Error message while printing without any prior warning....unlucky case -.-

 

Use an air cleaner spray with a long straw to clean with a roll. Do not try the roll because it is inconvenient to use.

 

Even if only the pizza wheel is removed, there are some that are of good quality, but if not, the pizza wheel + star wheel holder assy (plastic: the paper inlet side, not the outlet side) is removed and used. Suction fan is not planned. I tested it a few times with a model with this symptom, and the conclusion is that the internal leveling problem and the strength of the ball fastening, etc... When the pizza wheel is removed, a minute deformation is expected in the star wheel holder assy parts... The conclusion is that when the star wheel holder assy is removed no big problem.

 

100% empathy.   thx~

The roll is super easy to use, I posted photos and a video about it, while it’s not the best case scenario, it’s pretty easy to do. Two settings in EKprint, and whatever to hold the roll, boom. Roll printing, in which you can cut the sheet and cure normally, no feeding hassle, no wasted film, no improper feeding. 

 

I had the fake paper jam problem with my first xp15000. It was easily fixed with power cycling the unit and making sure it was not connected via WiFI, or USB. 
 If the printer is “ aware” an update is available, this happens every time. I call them phantom jams( maybe strawberry flavored). 
 

it’s not really all that complicated, the hardest thing about the printer is not spilling ink. I roll printed like 80+ prints, sheet printed, made Chipless, let sit for a week+, kicked it around my shop and it still worked. I intentionally didn’t give a shit in any aspect of the conversation and it still worked for me 100% outright, but I have dealt with this kind of crap for years. 
 

i gave up on recommending it though, over the issues that people have with the aftermarket cartridges and spilling liquid, and of course the issues you have trouble with. It’s not worth my time to try and save someone else a few hundred dollars, so I’ll agree this printer shouldn’t be used because it’s not beginner friendly. Pick up a P800, or even better a pre modified printer now that there are a lot of cheap offerings from alibaba. 
 

in the end, it’s not worth fighting to save a few hundred if you don’t know exactly what you are doing. While a ready to go system costs a bit more, not printing and selling will cost you more than what those few hundred will “save you” doing it yourself. 
 

remember, the printer is only a tool, or step “ 1 out of 10” to have a successful sale and ultimately end with a profit. No reason to waste precious time on something if you are not well experienced in the subject, over a few hundred bucks. 

 

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1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

The roll is super easy to use, I posted photos and a video about it, while it’s not the best case scenario, it’s pretty easy to do. Two settings in EKprint, and whatever to hold the roll, boom. Roll printing, in which you can cut the sheet and cure normally, no feeding hassle, no wasted film, no improper feeding. 

 

I had the fake paper jam problem with my first xp15000. It was easily fixed with power cycling the unit and making sure it was not connected via WiFI, or USB. 
 If the printer is “ aware” an update is available, this happens every time. I call them phantom jams( maybe strawberry flavored). 
 

it’s not really all that complicated, the hardest thing about the printer is not spilling ink. I roll printed like 80+ prints, sheet printed, made Chipless, let sit for a week+, kicked it around my shop and it still worked. I intentionally didn’t give a shit in any aspect of the conversation and it still worked for me 100% outright, but I have dealt with this kind of crap for years. 
 

i gave up on recommending it though, over the issues that people have with the aftermarket cartridges and spilling liquid, and of course the issues you have trouble with. It’s not worth my time to try and save someone else a few hundred dollars, so I’ll agree this printer shouldn’t be used because it’s not beginner friendly. Pick up a P800, or even better a pre modified printer now that there are a lot of cheap offerings from alibaba. 
 

in the end, it’s not worth fighting to save a few hundred if you don’t know exactly what you are doing. While a ready to go system costs a bit more, not printing and selling will cost you more than what those few hundred will “save you” doing it yourself. 
 

remember, the printer is only a tool, or step “ 1 out of 10” to have a successful sale and ultimately end with a profit. No reason to waste precious time on something if you are not well experienced in the subject, over a few hundred bucks. 

 

Overall, in my opinion, any new user trying out DTF, avoid the 15000. The P800 is perfect, and you won’t run into 90 percent of these issues. Or pickup an L1800 and convert it, or buy it pre converted. It’s not worth the hassles over a few hundred bucks, not until you have experience with it anyway and know how to properly diagnose things, YouTube isn’t the best idea, these aren’t professionals, just random peoples opinions with video( with the potential of monetary gain). Trial and error, and doing your own testing is going to always be the best way. 

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On 4/5/2021 at 3:28 PM, johnson4 said:

Rip software is available for this printer, I just purchased 3 of the refurbs for short run sheet only use, for one of them anyway. 
 

as for the ciss, that’s a waste of money. Get some refillable carts from aliexpress for $20 and just swap them out every 15-20 prints. A ciss, with white ink is a major headache. However, if you insist on a CISS, just use those same $20 carts, with a cheap $10-15 6 color ciss ink tank. $150 is highway robbery. 
 

my intentions: 

remove rollers

make chipless

use 3 sets of refillable cartridges for ink, swap them when they come close to empty.

use EKprint

use my regular film ( they all use just about the same pickup method, I haven’t had any issues).

make an output tray

make a waste tank and install it. 
 

like this, I’ll have a quick, Disposable unit for short run( or mistakes in my prints from the roll printer) designs for under $350, I already own EKprint.

 

also, without a ciss, you just shake the ink carts every other day. Want to take a break? Throw in some carts with cleaner, do two head cleans and let it sit for months without issue. 
 

with a ciss, you deal with wasted separated ink/runny prints if it isn’t printed with daily. as well, ciss tanks on a printer like this have to be placed at a specific height, and maintain a specific ink level or they leak all the ink out, siphoning it from the ink tanks until it equalizes. Basically, a huge mess and wasted ink. 

 

some people use and love them, I do for pigmented ink printers. For this type of stuff, I HATE ciss systems, but that’s my opinion 

Hey John!

New to the DTF world and have found your feedback to be the most help. Had a question for you about the output tray, where do I find one or any tips on making one? 
 

I’m also curious about the initial setup. When converting an Epson for sublimation, I added the OEM cartridges first, let it run its cycle, then put in my refillable ones with my sub ink and did a head cleaning to flush out the OEM ink. Do I do this as well with the Epson 15000 or just add in my chipless carts with my DTF ink and set it up? 
 

Sarah 

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10 minutes ago, SarahBeth said:

Hey John!

New to the DTF world and have found your feedback to be the most help. Had a question for you about the output tray, where do I find one or any tips on making one? 
 

I’m also curious about the initial setup. When converting an Epson for sublimation, I added the OEM cartridges first, let it run its cycle, then put in my refillable ones with my sub ink and did a head cleaning to flush out the OEM ink. Do I do this as well with the Epson 15000 or just add in my chipless carts with my DTF ink and set it up? 
 

Sarah 

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10 minutes ago, SarahBeth said:

Hey John!

New to the DTF world and have found your feedback to be the most help. Had a question for you about the output tray, where do I find one or any tips on making one? 
 

I’m also curious about the initial setup. When converting an Epson for sublimation, I added the OEM cartridges first, let it run its cycle, then put in my refillable ones with my sub ink and did a head cleaning to flush out the OEM ink. Do I do this as well with the Epson 15000 or just add in my chipless carts with my DTF ink and set it up? 
 

Sarah 

It would be best to test the printer as you did before before adding dtf ink. I’ve seen a few defective out of the box 15000’s. You may need more than one head clean.
 

as for you mentioning Chipless cartridges, as far as I am aware only firmware makes the printer Chipless. You may have aftermarket cartridges with chips installed, which are likely to be one time use chips, unless they recently released auto reset chips( ARC) for the 15000 that I am unaware of.

DTF will chew through the  ink chips unless you have made the printer Chipless.

I also recommend a spare waste tank or waste tank resetter, in the beginning you’ll run into that early on. 

 

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Great point! Will do the OEM cartridges first then DTF ink. 

I did read your comments and purchased a chip resetter for the waste box and plan on getting firmware software to make the cartridges chipless. Any recommendations on which one is best? 

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8 minutes ago, SarahBeth said:

Great point! Will do the OEM cartridges first then DTF ink. 

I did read your comments and purchased a chip resetter for the waste box and plan on getting firmware software to make the cartridges chipless. Any recommendations on which one is best? 

Chipless solutions is what i had always used, I’m glad you found some of the information helpful.

Edited by johnson4
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Thank you for all of your help!! Besides not connecting to WIFI, disabling status monitor, and turning off automatic updates, is there anything else I would need to do to ensure I do have a paperweight? 
 

I also keep seeing EKRip works best with the 15000, is this correct?

Then where would I find what temperature, pressure, and time that I am to press the sheets once done?

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3 hours ago, SarahBeth said:

Thank you for all of your help!! Besides not connecting to WIFI, disabling status monitor, and turning off automatic updates, is there anything else I would need to do to ensure I do have a paperweight? 
 

I also keep seeing EKRip works best with the 15000, is this correct?

Then where would I find what temperature, pressure, and time that I am to press the sheets once done?

Not a problem at all. 
 

doing those things just prevent Epson from shooting a “update” available to the printer, I had nothing but issues when that happened. As you have said would be all I did. 
 

I use EKprint, I have for years. It’s pretty simple to get the hang of ( though, any software is a challenge at first). I would recommend doing the trial version of EKprint to see if it’s a fit for you.

 

after you have printed and figured out the ink settings, how to feed the printer and the like, you will powder and then cure. That depends on the device/method you will use. The powder melts around 220 degrees, however the ink needs to dry out as well. I would suggest some trial and error, starting low and work your way up. If you leave a transfer sitting and it looks “ wet” or “oily” it’s under cured. If the powder isn’t a clean clearish rubbery texture or still powdery, it’s not cured thoroughly. If you see bubbles, if I remember correctly, it’s because it’s being cured too fast, at too high of a temperature. The “water” needs time to evaporate from the ink.
 

if you get crinkling,warping, excessive smoke, it’s too hot. It takes some practice. Just to be certain, you can’t press the wet film or touch it with anything on the print side until it has been cured. 
 

 

after they have been cured, you may then press them to the garment. I do 310 degrees at 20 seconds, peel, do it again. Let cool before folding/tossing the shirt around. If it cools with a fold or crease in the shirt where the print is, it stays in the print. Again though, this way vary from person to person and with time/practice you’ll find what you like. 

Edited by johnson4
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On 5/13/2021 at 12:59 PM, johnson4 said:

I use a special file in EKprint, that doesn't advance the film as it's done printing.

Would you be able to let me have that special file? I tried to private message you but it says you're not accepting messages.

I thought I could just select Roll mode on the settings but it tries to pull the from the casette.

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Can somebody PLEASE help me with EK rip settings for XP-15000? I have ink carts in order of C/GY/R/Y/M/BK (CMYK are in CMYK and white in two other carts) I just need the ink channel config settings in EK. 

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3 hours ago, Jenn said:

Can somebody PLEASE help me with EK rip settings for XP-15000? I have ink carts in order of C/GY/R/Y/M/BK (CMYK are in CMYK and white in two other carts) I just need the ink channel config settings in EK. 

with the standard configuration as you have described, EKprint would not need to be changed. Ekprint stock order would be CMYK as the same, and Gray and red being white. If you put the cartridges in that order, then your good. 

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12 hours ago, gforeman44 said:

has anyone had this problem where the white start to print but then stops

20210709_164251.jpg

20210709_161013.jpg

Your nozzles clogged. Also you can't use all of paper size. You should not use where it completely stops printing 

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It's an issue with the ink cartridges.. That's ink starvation, and your either printing at 1440x720 on the white, or you also have clogging going on, possibly from the same as the starvation.

If you don't prime the carts correctly, this happens. 

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at the top of the image I know what caused that image was too large and sheet was not longer enough my issue is at the bottom of picture which is the end that came out. the white under base is good at first then it goes away and it 8s like that on everything I print and the white  carts are new

20210709_164251.jpg

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1 hour ago, gforeman44 said:

at the top of the image I know what caused that image was too large and sheet was not longer enough my issue is at the bottom of picture which is the end that came out. the white under base is good at first then it goes away and it 8s like that on everything I print and the white  carts are new

20210709_164251.jpg

Right, that was what my previous response was about. Carts being new, actually to me makes the problem more likely. The banding you see, is from clogging, or ink starvation, or both stemming from the same problem. That’s a lot of white ink going down all at once, from 2 channels. Ink starvation.

Edited by johnson4
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thanks johnson4 and anum11 for some reason my ink had started separating in the sponge side of the cartridge. I use a syringe Pulled the white ink through the cartridge a few times and print looked better

Edited by gforeman44
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Posted (edited)

One thing I found about the 15000 is that the white needs fully replaced if it sits too long in the printer.  Shaking carts won't help.  You will get exactly what goforeman44 pic shows.  If I haven't printed for a few days and have forgotten to shake the ink carts, I'll just dump the white, refill and do a couple print head cleanings and I'm good to go.  I've never had any luck with white that's sat in the 15000, unused for more than a couple days.  It think that's the downfall of the sponges.

On the other hand, I think the sponge helps stop the head from getting clogged with white in general.  The 15000 I'm using is basically my test machine. I have another brand new in the box ready to go if this one gets messed up from testing.  My latest test was to leave it sit untouched with ink carts half full for a month.  Instead of just trying to print right away, and possibly causing more problems running gunk white through the head, I immediately dumped the white in the carts, and left them upside down while I ran about 8 print head clean cycles with my cleaning carts.  I then got the final drops of ink out of the white carts, refilled them, topped off the other colors, installed the DTF ink carts, ran 4 print head clean cycles to get the ink primed and ran a job.  Printed perfect (I never run print tests.  I can tell from a regular print job if it's printing correctly.)

@johnson4 can tell you guys how paranoid I was about the print head getting clogged and ruined when I first started in DTF.  The one month untouched test shows that if you use good procedures when printing you minimize a lot of problems down the road.  I always clean the wiper and cap thoroughly when done using the printer and drop enough cleaner in the cap to saturate the sponge, but no have a puddle.  I attribute the easy startup after one month no use to my daily procedures.

Edited by JTS
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37 minutes ago, JTS said:

 

@johnson4 The one month untouched test shows that if you use good procedures when printing you minimize a lot of problems down the road.  I always clean the wiper and cap thoroughly when done using the printer and drop enough cleaner in the cap to saturate the sponge, but no have a puddle.  I attribute the easy startup after one month no use to my daily procedures.

Exactly, head issues are pretty rare, compared to DTG and the like. I’ve tried to clog my heads and haven’t yet with this ink. 

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On 7/18/2021 at 1:53 AM, JTS said:

One thing I found about the 15000 is that the white needs fully replaced if it sits too long in the printer.  Shaking carts won't help.  You will get exactly what goforeman44 pic shows.  If I haven't printed for a few days and have forgotten to shake the ink carts, I'll just dump the white, refill and do a couple print head cleanings and I'm good to go.  I've never had any luck with white that's sat in the 15000, unused for more than a couple days.  It think that's the downfall of the sponges.

On the other hand, I think the sponge helps stop the head from getting clogged with white in general.  The 15000 I'm using is basically my test machine. I have another brand new in the box ready to go if this one gets messed up from testing.  My latest test was to leave it sit untouched with ink carts half full for a month.  Instead of just trying to print right away, and possibly causing more problems running gunk white through the head, I immediately dumped the white in the carts, and left them upside down while I ran about 8 print head clean cycles with my cleaning carts.  I then got the final drops of ink out of the white carts, refilled them, topped off the other colors, installed the DTF ink carts, ran 4 print head clean cycles to get the ink primed and ran a job.  Printed perfect (I never run print tests.  I can tell from a regular print job if it's printing correctly.)

@johnson4 can tell you guys how paranoid I was about the print head getting clogged and ruined when I first started in DTF.  The one month untouched test shows that if you use good procedures when printing you minimize a lot of problems down the road.  I always clean the wiper and cap thoroughly when done using the printer and drop enough cleaner in the cap to saturate the sponge, but no have a puddle.  I attribute the easy startup after one month no use to my daily procedures.

If you use cleaning carts, this may solve this issue. 

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