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Epson XP-15000 Setup


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On 6/15/2021 at 10:34 AM, Mdrake2016 said:

Everybody, please be careful with the cartridges on the XP-15000. The sponge cartridges suck if you make a mistake. I made 2 mistakes:

1. I had both holes on the cartridges plugged when I first installed the DTF inks, and it caused some leaking and a clogged nozzle that never cleared.

2. Yesterday I wanted to manually move the printhead so I can clean the wiper blade, and my finger accidentally hit one of the cartridges so it popped up and caused the ink to spill through. This seemed to fry something. I get an Error 031006 so I took apart the printer, removed the printhead and cleaned it the best I could but I still get the error when I put it back together.

I made both of these exact mistakes. If you accidentally knock the cartridges off while unplugged you can kiss your printer goodbye and say hello x031006. I Bought a TON of empty cartridges and a whole set of every type of ink available for the XP-15000 (dye, pigment, sublimation). But these things are honestly even trashier than I expected. It seems like epson has gone above and beyond to make it as difficult as possible to clean or service these printers. I'm going to do my best to just leave the dye ink carts in the printer and just refill them without ever removing them.

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53 minutes ago, Contracandles said:

I'm going to do my best to just leave the dye ink carts in the printer and just refill them without ever removing them.

I was hoping to do the same with the DTF inks but unfortunately have to shake them up every morning. Unless there's another way I'm unaware of. Shake the whole printer maybe? Lol

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14 minutes ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I was hoping to do the same with the DTF inks but unfortunately have to shake them up every morning. Unless there's another way I'm unaware of. Shake the whole printer maybe? Lol

That's literally why I don't want to use anything other than dye inks since you don't have to shake them. For me it's just not the worth the risk constantly cycling carts. Hopefully I can fix up an R1800 for doing pigments.

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1 hour ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I was hoping to do the same with the DTF inks but unfortunately have to shake them up every morning. Unless there's another way I'm unaware of. Shake the whole printer maybe? Lol

Not going to lie, I have done this, lol. 

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1 hour ago, Contracandles said:

That's literally why I don't want to use anything other than dye inks since you don't have to shake them. For me it's just not the worth the risk constantly cycling carts. Hopefully I can fix up an R1800 for doing pigments.

I have never once shaken pigment inks, or noticed settling from them in the years I have used them, unless they are going on years old. I think epson has the P800 pigment carts on a 3 year shelf life. once installed they have a one year lifespan without being removed and shaken. I have noticed them coagulate in older unused printers I have purchased though.  However, I can't say that it wouldn't clog the printer since pigments carry larger particles and it was designed for dye based inks. I encountered that often with low quality aftermarket ink.

Edited by johnson4
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23 hours ago, johnson4 said:

I have never once shaken pigment inks, or noticed settling from them in the years I have used them, unless they are going on years old. I think epson has the P800 pigment carts on a 3 year shelf life. once installed they have a one year lifespan without being removed and shaken. I have noticed them coagulate in older unused printers I have purchased though.  However, I can't say that it wouldn't clog the printer since pigments carry larger particles and it was designed for dye based inks. I encountered that often with low quality aftermarket ink.

 

I mean I literally cannot get a single good nozzle check using DTF ink from DTF Super Store. Used an entire ink cartridges worth trying to purge and do nozzle cleans. I got the "there's something wrong with your print head, contact epson message" eventually JUST from doing head cleans, so I noped the fuck off and installed the dye refill ink (no more warning thankfully). Getting perfect checks and prints now after only one head clean. By some miracle Epson decided not to charge me for the hacked printer I returned so I'm trying to play it a little more conservatively. I still have the second broken one going back for replacement, so maybe once I have two of them again I'll be a little more brave.

And then LITERALLY as I'm typing this: Turn on your printer again. See your documentation for more detail. 031006

Welp, looks like I'm throwing these fuckers straight into the trash.

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1 hour ago, Contracandles said:

Has anyone used a manual reset device with this? I'm convinced that somehow I'm bricking the printers with the chipless firmware. I have one more printer and don't want to destroy it. I'd like to buy some cartridges and try and just keep resetting them manually.

They don’t have them, I don’t think. It’s one time chips or Chipless for this one. 
 

honestly, if it’s that much struggle I would try cleaning them up and selling them/exchanging them with Epson then selling them. Pick up a P series printer, and be done. Your best bet is going to be the P800, they were available for $800 yesterday, sell the ink for $400 and have a solid $400 in it, Chipless, $30 for some refillable carts-boom- DTF on the cheap with a printer that won’t give you those issues. 

Edited by johnson4
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2 hours ago, Contracandles said:

 

I mean I literally cannot get a single good nozzle check using DTF ink from DTF Super Store. Used an entire ink cartridges worth trying to purge and do nozzle cleans. I got the "there's something wrong with your print head, contact epson message" eventually JUST from doing head cleans, so I noped the fuck off and installed the dye refill ink (no more warning thankfully). Getting perfect checks and prints now after only one head clean. By some miracle Epson decided not to charge me for the hacked printer I returned so I'm trying to play it a little more conservatively. I still have the second broken one going back for replacement, so maybe once I have two of them again I'll be a little more brave.

And then LITERALLY as I'm typing this: Turn on your printer again. See your documentation for more detail. 031006

Welp, looks like I'm throwing these fuckers straight into the trash.

Do you know what that code means?

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1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

They don’t have them, I don’t think. It’s one time chips or Chipless for this one. 
 

honestly, if it’s that much struggle I would try cleaning them up and selling them/exchanging them with Epson then selling them. Pick up a P series printer, and be done. Your best bet is going to be the P800, they were available for $800 yesterday, sell the ink for $400 and have a solid $400 in it, Chipless, $30 for some refillable carts-boom- DTF on the cheap with a printer that won’t give you those issues. 

Yes, that's exactly my intention at this point. I see them going for nearly $500 on ebay (I got mine for MSRP), and the price for USA shipped empty cartridges seems crazy high. At this point I'd probably turn a profit selling it all assuming epson will change them out. I already snagged a R1800 for dirt cheap. I'm pretty happy with the l805 platform in my UV printer and it will be nice to have compatible spare print heads worst comes to worse. I'm not even sure DTF is the best technology for my application so it's really hard to invest more than in another machine. I'm trying to use one of those 3D vacuum ovens to print on glass jars that I coat in polyester. UV works OK, but the colors aren't exactly what I'd like, and the smell is god awful and I need to place each jar manually after every print. I love UV for random one offs and customization projects, but I need something for small run production that I can basically just have printing in the background while I do other stuff. If I can get DTF working it'd be less than a quarter of the labor and I'm hoping much less awful smell and better color.

1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

Do you know what that code means?

No clue. Epson couldn't (or wouldn't) even tell me, they just immediately offered to ship a new one. Further cementing in my mind that these are the disposable cameras of inkjet printers.

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27 minutes ago, Contracandles said:

Yes, that's exactly my intention at this point. I see them going for nearly $500 on ebay (I got mine for MSRP), and the price for USA shipped empty cartridges seems crazy high. At this point I'd probably turn a profit selling it all assuming epson will change them out. I already snagged a R1800 for dirt cheap. I'm pretty happy with the l805 platform in my UV printer and it will be nice to have compatible spare print heads worst comes to worse. I'm not even sure DTF is the best technology for my application so it's really hard to invest more than in another machine. I'm trying to use one of those 3D vacuum ovens to print on glass jars that I coat in polyester. UV works OK, but the colors aren't exactly what I'd like, and the smell is god awful and I need to place each jar manually after every print. I love UV for random one offs and customization projects, but I need something for small run production that I can basically just have printing in the background while I do other stuff. If I can get DTF working it'd be less than a quarter of the labor and I'm hoping much less awful smell and better color.

No clue. Epson couldn't (or wouldn't) even tell me, they just immediately offered to ship a new one. Further cementing in my mind that these are the disposable cameras of inkjet printers.

I have the manual for it, I can check. 
 

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5 hours ago, Contracandles said:

 

I mean I literally cannot get a single good nozzle check using DTF ink from DTF Super Store. Used an entire ink cartridges worth trying to purge and do nozzle cleans. I got the "there's something wrong with your print head, contact epson message" eventually JUST from doing head cleans, so I noped the fuck off and installed the dye refill ink (no more warning thankfully). Getting perfect checks and prints now after only one head clean. By some miracle Epson decided not to charge me for the hacked printer I returned so I'm trying to play it a little more conservatively. I still have the second broken one going back for replacement, so maybe once I have two of them again I'll be a little more brave.

And then LITERALLY as I'm typing this: Turn on your printer again. See your documentation for more detail. 031006

Welp, looks like I'm throwing these fuckers straight into the trash.

 

7E4812E3-D86D-408E-8049-6213B78ADA35.jpeg
 

looks like printhead power failure, aka, probably a shorted out printhead from liquid. 

Edited by johnson4
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Thanks for the information. I am starting to suspect there might be an inherent design flaw in these refillable carts like you said. I might have fucked up the first two, but I was very careful with this one. It's a shame the print heads cost 2/3 of the printer. Maybe I'll try replacing the fuse but I suspect it's surface mount and not worth the bother. These look like a huge pain in the ass to open up and I hardly see any documentation about it. Can't even find the most basic information about the motherboard online.

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2 hours ago, Contracandles said:

Thanks for the information. I am starting to suspect there might be an inherent design flaw in these refillable carts like you said. I might have fucked up the first two, but I was very careful with this one. It's a shame the print heads cost 2/3 of the printer. Maybe I'll try replacing the fuse but I suspect it's surface mount and not worth the bother. These look like a huge pain in the ass to open up and I hardly see any documentation about it. Can't even find the most basic information about the motherboard online.

It’s not bad, I had mine apart in about 15 minutes. I’ll pm you the manual in a bit

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On 6/15/2021 at 12:36 PM, chaudhryis said:

Hi.. just going through some of the comments and seeing the challenges and hassles people are facing on the XP15000 (which I was working to convert to DTF).. I am now double minded … 

 

I am at a stage where I haven’t put DTF ink in the printer yet… and yet to buy the RIP software and chipless software

 

I have two printers one is XP15000 brand new no existing ink in channels… and another is a P600 with original pigment ink cartridges which I may need to flush

 

I have the supplies to convert either of the two printers to a DTF printer.. my usage will be around 30-50 A3 prints in a week.. print runs every other day… 

 

Question is.. should I go after the XP15000 conversion or P600… 

 

the only reason I was wanted to use the XP15000 was because the cartridges sit on top of the print head and I thought it would be best to swap the carts with cleaning solution after every print run to keep them unclogged, in case I come after two three days for prints. 
 

Kindly suggest, as I am confused.

New update .. so I gathered the guts to move with the XP15000… took it out of the box .. put the plug in to move the print head slightly so I could free the print head and move out of way of the pizza roller screws … the very first power on gives a smoke cloud and phuff the printer is gone … this is some seriously in reliable DTF printer … the printer is going back to newegg.. but wow what a clear sign to stay clear from the XP15000 lineup… 

 

so that just happened… guess my only choice is P600 which I have on hand ……

 

I do have a SC4900 in sight from a seller but that printer has been sitting for over a year without printing … and the ink has all dried out … not sure if I should risk my money on it .. I did read and saw some videos on how the SC4900 is also great DTF DIY printer… any experience with an old printer revival? or should I stay clear.. the seller says he didn’t even buy the 2nd set of inks for the printer .. so I am guessing it’s done under 1500-2000 prints.. 

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26 minutes ago, chaudhryis said:

New update .. so I gathered the guts to move with the XP15000… took it out of the box .. put the plug in to move the print head slightly so I could free the print head and move out of way of the pizza roller screws … the very first power on gives a smoke cloud and phuff the printer is gone … this is some seriously in reliable DTF printer … the printer is going back to newegg.. but wow what a clear sign to stay clear from the XP15000 lineup… 

 

so that just happened… guess my only choice is P600 which I have on hand ……

 

I do have a SC4900 in sight from a seller but that printer has been sitting for over a year without printing … and the ink has all dried out … not sure if I should risk my money on it .. I did read and saw some videos on how the SC4900 is also great DTF DIY printer… any experience with an old printer revival? or should I stay clear.. the seller says he didn’t even buy the 2nd set of inks for the printer .. so I am guessing it’s done under 1500-2000 prints.. 

I’m sure you could get it going, if not a good flush and a new head is worst case scenario if it’s in good shape otherwise. 

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On 6/18/2021 at 11:11 AM, johnson4 said:

I’m sure you could get it going, if not a good flush and a new head is worst case scenario if it’s in good shape otherwise. 

I got the used Epson 4900.. it was sitting for over 2 years.. took out the print head... 7 out of 10 nozzles clear... 3 are dead.. (I just tried standard water based printer head cleaner (Mild)... now i will move it up a notch to Windex or piezo... 

 

all the dampers are caked with ink 

all the piping is also caked with ink.. 

 

i didn't get a chance to hit the epson power flush yet as the maintenance tank was gone and the new one is in the mail... 

 

Question at this point do you think i can make do with CMYK +WWW (7 channels) if worst case i just get to though 7 cleared nozzles... 

secondly do you think i should order new dampers and motor assembly and piping .. or try to clean it with something aggressive like contact cleaner alcohol

 

 

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1 hour ago, chaudhryis said:

I got the used Epson 4900.. it was sitting for over 2 years.. took out the print head... 7 out of 10 nozzles clear... 3 are dead.. (I just tried standard water based printer head cleaner (Mild)... now i will move it up a notch to Windex or piezo... 

 

all the dampers are caked with ink 

all the piping is also caked with ink.. 

 

i didn't get a chance to hit the epson power flush yet as the maintenance tank was gone and the new one is in the mail... 

 

Question at this point do you think i can make do with CMYK +WWW (7 channels) if worst case i just get to though 7 cleared nozzles... 

secondly do you think i should order new dampers and motor assembly and piping .. or try to clean it with something aggressive like contact cleaner alcohol

 

 

You can manually clean them in sure, ideally if it were me I would replace them. As for the printhead, I wouldn’t use any of those things. Windex will dry it out more, as it’s intended to do in glass. The ammonia is what helps, the alcohol and the rest is what “quickly” dries out. Even still, it’s a very crude way to proceed, been there done that, don’t recommend it.
 

if your in the US, order some Epson F2000 tube wash. Take the printhead and clean it with that cleaner with a swab. Mix it with 50% distilled water, wet cap the printer with it and then do a head clean after 30 minutes. It helps if you have cleaner throughout the system already. I know for sure I’d you can manually push the cleaner through the lines with the printhead detached, this stuff will clean the lines. Manually purging the head, that’s all on you, I won’t ever recommend that. 
 

after 2-3 times of using it diluted, if it doesn’t completely clear the clogs, you can use it 100% non diluted for 5 minutes TOPs, followed by an immediate ink charge/head clean. Literally always works for me, as long as you cleaned all the ink lines and whatnot. 
 

that would be the best bet, and is the best chemical I have ever encountered over the years to literally remove any clog I have ever had, that was related to dried ink/clogged nozzles. 
 

as for printing with 7 channels, it should work. I had a p600 with 7 channels and it worked just fine for DTG, just have to get the settings right with it. 
 

Edited by johnson4
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On 2021. 4. 6. at 오전 2시 9분, JTS said:

모두들 안녕!

포럼에 처음 왔으며 몇 가지 질문이있었습니다 ...

저는 Epson XP-15000을 구입하고 시작 및 실행에 필요한 기본 사항을 모았습니다. 인터넷 여행 중 어느 곳에서 XP-15000이 프린터를 통해 특정 전송 필름을 이동하는 데 문제가 있다는 것을 읽었습니다. 누구든지 이것을 확인할 수 있습니까? 이것이 사실이라면 XP-15000과 함께 사용할 권장 전사 필름이 있습니까?

CISS 키트도 찾고 있습니다. 약 $ 150에 하나를 찾았습니다. 약간 높은 것 같지만 솔직히 말해서 XP-15000에 대해 많은 것을 찾을 수 없었고이 키트의 진행률이 무엇인지 정말 모릅니다. 또한 미국에서 배송되는데, 제가 찾은 다른 키트가 해외에 있었기 때문에 플러스입니다. Amazon의 범용 키트가 작동하는지 궁금했습니다. CISS 키트에 대한 권장 사항이 있습니까?

그리고 마지막으로. 앞서 언급했듯이 YouTube와 다른 포럼에서해야 할 일을 정리했습니다. Epson XP-15000 용 DTF 변환 가이드가 "완전하다"고 말했습니까?

Yes, the xp15000 has serious problems with rear paper feeding.
1. Fake paper jam problem - There is a problem with PaperSense. There is still no clear solution for this part. Part replacement is the best solution

2. The paper cannot be fed normally because the back of the dtf paper is too slippery. (There is no need to clean or disassemble the larger of the two rubber rollers in the rear feed paper input)

3. Paper pressing phenomenon due to the elasticity of paper.
When the paper passes through the black plastic part (a.star wheel holder assy) and the rubber roller under the connected metal (b,star wheel holder assy), the paper with weak elasticity after printing from the head In the case of , a very serious line is created as the paper moves up and down and the ink comes into contact with the bottom of the a.star wheel holder assy.

It is also important to check the level of the internal parts, not the horizontal-outside level of the printer. Emission related parts.

Paper is best tested by retailing a wide variety of brands. The above information is based on my first-hand experience.

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20 minutes ago, dropship88 said:

Yes, the xp15000 has serious problems with rear paper feeding.
1. Fake paper jam problem - There is a problem with PaperSense. There is still no clear solution for this part. Part replacement is the best solution.

I found this “fake paper jam” problem to be Chipless firmware related. 

20 minutes ago, dropship88 said:

2. The paper cannot be fed normally because the back of the dtf paper is too slippery. (There is no need to clean or disassemble the larger of the two rubber rollers in the rear feed paper input)

this happens with every sheet feed printer, they make double sided film that soposedly helps. Easier to use rolls, and just cut the printed single transfer from the roll after it’s printed to avoid these issues. 

20 minutes ago, dropship88 said:

3. Paper pressing phenomenon due to the elasticity of paper.
When the paper passes through the black plastic part (a.star wheel holder assy) and the rubber roller under the connected metal (b,star wheel holder assy), the paper with weak elasticity after printing from the head In the case of , a very serious line is created as the paper moves up and down and the ink comes into contact with the bottom of the a.star wheel holder assy.

this star wheel assembly should be removed entirely, a suction fan would help a lot too.

20 minutes ago, dropship88 said:

It is also important to check the level of the internal parts, not the horizontal-outside level of the printer. Emission related parts.

Paper is best tested by retailing a wide variety of brands. The above information is based on my first-hand experience.

Even the exact same brand/type of paper will have variations due to batch differences, from my experience, including the cut size of the film, from my experience.

Edited by johnson4
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9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

I found this “fake paper jam” problem to be Chipless firmware related.

It's a very scary case, and I'm using 1 print for a part because it's completely stupid.
In the case of a fake paper jam, an attempt was made to repair it by citing postings from YouTube materials and other forums, but it failed, eventually moving to the official service center, also at the official service center ---new motherboard and pe sensor were exchanged, but it worked again Serious damage to the head during one repair attempt.... Not sure if it's because of [Chipless firmware], 3 of the same [Chipless firmware: indicated by ink level pool] 2 are from another brand [Chipless firmware: ink] Volume moving display] 1 out of 3 fake paper jams.
Error message while printing without any prior warning....unlucky case -.-

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

this happens with every sheet feed printer, they make double sided film that soposedly helps. Easier to use rolls, and just cut the printed single transfer from the roll after it’s printed to avoid these issues. 

Use an air cleaner spray with a long straw to clean with a roll. Do not try the roll because it is inconvenient to use.

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

this star wheel assembly should be removed entirely, a suction fan would help a lot too

Even if only the pizza wheel is removed, there are some that are of good quality, but if not, the pizza wheel + star wheel holder assy (plastic: the paper inlet side, not the outlet side) is removed and used. Suction fan is not planned. I tested it a few times with a model with this symptom, and the conclusion is that the internal leveling problem and the strength of the ball fastening, etc... When the pizza wheel is removed, a minute deformation is expected in the star wheel holder assy parts... The conclusion is that when the star wheel holder assy is removed no big problem.

 

9 hours ago, johnson4 said:

Even the exact same brand/type of paper will have variations due to batch differences, from my experience, including the cut size of the film, from my experience

100% empathy.   thx~

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