My Epson P600 DTF Conversion - Step by Step Overview

[PhilUK]

I've just gone through the process of converting a second hand Epson P600 for DTF and thought I'd document some of the steps I've taken, settings I use etc. - it may help someone else attempting the same   Needless to say, there will be nuances and variations around your particular setup.  The info below represents the outcome of trial and error, Googling and researching etc. (putting it all in one place - I wish I'd had this before I stated *grins*).

I'm using AcroRIP 9.0.3

Step 1 - Removing the Rollers

Don't be daunted by this, it really is very simple.  A small flat blade screwdriver is all you need to pop these loose and slide them out.  No printer disassembly is needed. 

Step 2 - Adding the DTF Ink

Using refillable cartridges, I've installed in this order:  YWWMCWWK - the final cartridge (MK) is filled with a mix of distilled water and a dash of printer cleaning fluid.  In AcroRIP 9.0.3 I've set the printer as Stylus Photo R3000, selected the port the SC-P600 is connected to, and set the Ink Channels under 'Color Management' to match the installed sequence.

Step 3 - Waste Tank (optional)

While you can make your own, I snagged a ready to go one from Ebay for speed and convenience.

Step 4 - Output Tray

The purpose of the output tray is to support the film as it exits the printer.  It needs to be positioned so that the top of your output tray is only 1-2mm lower than the top of the output rollers in the printer.  If there's a drop, the film will bend as it exits; when it bends during feeding the film will catch the printhead or other parts of the printer and smear the ink.

I had some A2 foam board which I used for a makeshift output support.  The board is 5mm thick.  As you can see in the image, I made a couple of cutouts at the sides so that the tray slides neatly into the printer exit area.  The back end of the support rests on the end of the fully extended output tray, and to keep the front (printer facing) edge in place I 3D printed a couple of supports.  These are 70mm high and rest neatly on the open bottom front cover of the printer.  At some point I'll do a neater version of this (it's a bit bigger than it needs to be), but it does the job.

Step 6 - AcroRIP 9.0.3 Settings

You'll need to play around with your own Ink Limit settings, and White Layer Generation etc.  These are the settings I've used successfully.

And that's it... you may or may not find this useful

If you are having issued with film feeding, leave a stack of paper in the tray (I've got about 8mm of A4, in landscape, and the film feeds reliably).  Another point is don't close the paper guides tightly against the film - leave a 5mm gap.  You should have all the paper width check settings on the printer OFF.

Oh, one last thing - in terms of sprinkling the DTF powder on to the print, I'm now using one of these little shakers (medium size holes).  It makes it quite quick and easy to get coverage on most of the print.  What ingenious methods have you all come up with to recover the surplus powder once you've applied it?

I'm using the hover method of curing via my heat press - about 2 minutes at 170 degrees, hovvering about 1cm above the film.

When pressing the garment, 20 seconds at 170 degrees, medium pressure seems to do the trick nicely.  I then re-press under silicon paper for another 10 seconds.

 

 

 

[johnson4]

57 minutes ago, PhilUK said:

I've just gone through the process of converting a second hand Epson P600 for DTF and thought I'd document some of the steps I've taken, settings I use etc. - it may help someone else attempting the same   Needless to say, there will be nuances and variations around your particular setup.  The info below represents the outcome of trial and error, Googling and researching etc. (putting it all in one place - I wish I'd had this before I stated *grins*).

I'm using AcroRIP 9.0.3

Step 1 - Removing the Rollers

Don't be daunted by this, it really is very simple.  A small flat blade screwdriver is all you need to pop these loose and slide them out.  No printer disassembly is needed. 

Step 2 - Adding the DTF Ink

Using refillable cartridges, I've installed in this order:  YWWMCWWK - the final cartridge (MK) is filled with a mix of distilled water and a dash of printer cleaning fluid.  In AcroRIP 9.0.3 I've set the printer as Stylus Photo R3000, selected the port the SC-P600 is connected to, and set the Ink Channels under 'Color Management' to match the installed sequence.

Step 3 - Waste Tank (optional)

While you can make your own, I snagged a ready to go one from Ebay for speed and convenience.

Step 4 - Output Tray

The purpose of the output tray is to support the film as it exits the printer.  It needs to be positioned so that the top of your output tray is only 1-2mm lower than the top of the output rollers in the printer.  If there's a drop, the film will bend as it exits; when it bends during feeding the film will catch the printhead or other parts of the printer and smear the ink.

I had some A2 foam board which I used for a makeshift output support.  The board is 5mm thick.  As you can see in the image, I made a couple of cutouts at the sides so that the tray slides neatly into the printer exit area.  The back end of the support rests on the end of the fully extended output tray, and to keep the front (printer facing) edge in place I 3D printed a couple of supports.  These are 70mm high and rest neatly on the open bottom front cover of the printer.  At some point I'll do a neater version of this (it's a bit bigger than it needs to be), but it does the job.

Step 6 - AcroRIP 9.0.3 Settings

You'll need to play around with your own Ink Limit settings, and White Layer Generation etc.  These are the settings I've used successfully.

And that's it... you may or may not find this useful

If you are having issued with film feeding, leave a stack of paper in the tray (I've got about 8mm of A4, in landscape, and the film feeds reliably).  Another point is don't close the paper guides tightly against the film - leave a 5mm gap.  You should have all the paper width check settings on the printer OFF.

Oh, one last thing - in terms of sprinkling the DTF powder on to the print, I'm now using one of these little shakers (medium size holes).  It makes it quite quick and easy to get coverage on most of the print.  What ingenious methods have you all come up with to recover the surplus powder once you've applied it?

I'm using the hover method of curing via my heat press - about 2 minutes at 170 degrees, hovvering about 1cm above the film.

When pressing the garment, 20 seconds at 170 degrees, medium pressure seems to do the trick nicely.  I then re-press under silicon paper for another 10 seconds.

 

 

 

Awesome job! Just keep in mind the ink order will vary depending on which RIP program you use. 

[clivelaw]

Hi Phil Looks good I used 5mm acrylic sheet for my tray very shiney makes the film glide out easy, I'm working on a roller and vacuum system with a stepper motor so that the film comes fully out from the printer.

When it's ready I will post the info. And thanks for your post if only I had seen your post months ago would of saved me alot of time

Regards

[Lamifa]

Amazing! Would this work with a P400 or completely different?

[johnson4]

36 minutes ago, Lamifa said:

Amazing! Would this work with a P400 or completely different?

P400 is easy too. Remove Rollers, make Chipless,  make an output tray. Waste tank hose is easy to get to as well, just like this one. 
 

pretty much it, no purging or cleaning needed, just a couple head cleans with the new ink, and your good. 
 

following the same basic settings will get you started

Edited April 25, 2021 by johnson4

[Billy_123]

I just converted a p600, but my transfer paper is not getting printed on. It goes through like it's going to print but then comes out the other end not printed. Just say out of paper add paper. But normal paper is working fine. What paper type setting are you using?

[johnson4]

2 hours ago, Billy_123 said:

I just converted a p600, but my transfer paper is not getting printed on. It goes through like it's going to print but then comes out the other end not printed. Just say out of paper add paper. But normal paper is working fine. What paper type setting are you using?

Add a white strip to the beginning of the film. 

[Billy_123]

3 hours ago, johnson4 said:

Add a white strip to the beginning of the film. 

Thanks will try but what paper type should i set the printer too

[johnson4]

I Just left it stock, the RIP handles all that.

[Billy_123]

6 hours ago, johnson4 said:

Add a white strip to the beginning of the film. 

Tried the white strip along the bottom, shiny side first, still the same issue, then tried the other putting it on both sides still noluck. Tried sticking an A4 sheet to it too, still the same results... Really getting frustrated with this this. Arrggghhh. 

[johnson4]

1 hour ago, Billy_123 said:

Tried the white strip along the bottom, shiny side first, still the same issue, then tried the other putting it on both sides still noluck. Tried sticking an A4 sheet to it too, still the same results... Really getting frustrated with this this. Arrggghhh. 

Weird, that’s the p600 with which software?

[Billy_123]

It's acrorip 9.0.3

[Ikegwegbe]

Please how do you deal with white ink separation while printing on Epson p600. I have a lot of problem with that

[johnson4]

6 minutes ago, Ikegwegbe said:

Please how do you deal with white ink separation while printing on Epson p600. I have a lot of problem with that

Print more often, or do 1-2 ink charges before printing after sitting.

[Ikegwegbe]

Thanks, but can printing 3 print everyday solve this problem

[johnson4]

3 hours ago, Ikegwegbe said:

Thanks, but can printing 3 print everyday solve this problem

I have no idea, I’d imagine you’d need to use enough to use the entirety of the ink lines worth of ink- or most of it. I know for DTG I had to print about 5-10 shirts a day to prevent settling.

[Ikegwegbe]

Thanks alot

[dna]

I have the same model. Unfortunately, acrorip does not print from the roll. Transfer data, but when set to "roll" the printer does not receive data.

Do you have the same problem?

[thedesignlabmiami]

did you have have to purge the old ink from the system before adding the dtf ink ? 

[johnson4]

46 minutes ago, thedesignlabmiami said:

did you have have to purge the old ink from the system before adding the dtf ink ? 

No,but it’s recommended to make sure there isn’t any clogs, and all the ink gets flushed out. It’s always good to have a set of cleaning carts. 

[tommydtf]

Does your output tray sit on the printers existing tray?

Edited October 2, 2021 by tommydtf

[tommydtf]

7 hours ago, tommydtf said:

Does your output tray sit on the printers existing tray?

all good sorted thank you

[stickfeld]

Hallo Leute,

ich habe auch etwas gebastelt. Ein Epson sc-p6000 mit Zirkulation für 4 weiße Kanäle. Und Werbung bzw. Status Bildschirm im Gehäuse.

schaut mal hier: 

 

[Ashley Gault]

How are u able to use the acrorip program? I've downloaded it but it says I need the dongles for it. Did you have to buy those or know a way around that? Also my film isn't going through and I have tried everything possible. Please help! 

[johnson4]

1 hour ago, Ashley Gault said:

How are u able to use the acrorip program? I've downloaded it but it says I need the dongles for it. Did you have to buy those or know a way around that? Also my film isn't going through and I have tried everything possible. Please help! 

There isn't a free RIP program out there, unless it's pirated and illegal. Almost always some issue with those from what I have read.  They all need purchased for a genuine copy. Cadlink is the most user friendly print ready system, Which I would recommend trying to 15 day free trial of. 

Edited November 27, 2022 by johnson4