Jump to content

Mdrake2016

Members
  • Posts

    49
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Mdrake2016's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. Ahh I see I got it now. I’m extremely happy with my results doing it this way now (other than the colors...I still gotta figure out how everybody uses Graphics mode while I have to use Vivid). One concern I have with a higher printing speed is if using the auto shaking/curing machine. Would curing be an issue with the print moving through the machine this quickly? I’m getting an approx 2 min print time for a 9x12 print.
  2. I played around with some of my settings in the 1440x720 template that I saved, and I think I may have found the best settings with banding so small, only picky OCD people like me would notice. Surprisingly, my images that have gradients look even better using these settings than my 1440x1440 template (more smooth gradient). What I did was the following: 1440x720 for both color and white Ink Configuration: Drop size: Medium Ink Level: 1 Ink Density: 95% White Underbase: Mode: Content Based Level: 2 (THIS is what made everything look a LOT better for me) Density: 110% Color Contrast: -17 (still testing this to find the optimal look that I'm going for) May have to play with the density levels but so far, the prints are looking great this morning.
  3. When printing in multi head passes, how does that work exactly? I thought single pass meant it prints everything in 1 shot and multi pass means then the printer would have to “rewind” the film and then print the underbase after the color layer is laid down. I guess I’ve always printed everything in single pass since I don’t understand it.
  4. Well that sucks. Looks like we’re out of luck with that for DTF printing.
  5. A workaround for that percentage issue is to use an option that doesn’t exist on the drop down box. For example when I tried to use 60% it went to 600% since that’s also one of their options. I used 61% and that worked.
  6. With EKPrint...I can’t seem to get it to use different resolution settings for the white and color. Meaning if I use 1440x720 for color and 1440x1440 for white, it does 1440x720 for both even just by the look and speed of the print. It seems to use the Color resolution as the whole print even though in the manual they suggest choosing a lower resolution for the White. What settings were you able to adjust to make the white look perfect?
  7. I have 2 problems with 1440x720 - Theres banding on both the color and the white. - Pure white leaves strange random streaks throughout the print (both XP-1500 I have did this). I tried increasing the ink density a lot on either the color alone, white alone and both together but didn’t have much luck. I went up as far as 175% for the white. Seemed to be SLIGHTLY better but not much. If you do find a way to improve this please let us know.
  8. I’m curious if setting it to a different printer would affect the print speed.
  9. Configuration, Ink Setting, Printer Setup. Then on top change it to Manual when using sheets.
  10. I was hoping to do the same with the DTF inks but unfortunately have to shake them up every morning. Unless there's another way I'm unaware of. Shake the whole printer maybe? Lol
  11. This is the adjustable knob next to "Opacity contrast" when printing with Content Based or Mixed mode correct? When adjusting that in Transparency mode, it doesn't affect the white. I tried printing in Content Based or Mixed and did not get good results at all, but that's because I didn't realize the knob controls the white as you're describing here. I will have to play with it for sure. As for the white only working with the "white underbase" checked, the problem with this is the choke settings can ruin white only areas of the print. For example, I have a design (it has white only areas and colored areas) that I need to put a choke of 5 or else the underbase pokes through the colored areas. However, the white only part of the design has thin lines. Adding the choke (which again I have no choice but to use) makes those thin lines VERY thin. I guess the best way to combat this is before printing, edit the image by adding a few pixels to the white areas (in illustrator, photoshop, etc) to compensate for the choke that EKPrint would use.
  12. Everybody, please be careful with the cartridges on the XP-15000. The sponge cartridges suck if you make a mistake. I made 2 mistakes: 1. I had both holes on the cartridges plugged when I first installed the DTF inks, and it caused some leaking and a clogged nozzle that never cleared. 2. Yesterday I wanted to manually move the printhead so I can clean the wiper blade, and my finger accidentally hit one of the cartridges so it popped up and caused the ink to spill through. This seemed to fry something. I get an Error 031006 so I took apart the printer, removed the printhead and cleaned it the best I could but I still get the error when I put it back together.
  13. I'm not exactly sure how hot my flash dryer gets (I think over 500 degrees) but when I use it to cure prints and while the platen is hot, my prints cure in 30 seconds and look great. I think a lot has to do with the distance of the heating element as well. When my platen is cold, it takes about 1 minute.
  14. So I've been looking at the mini shaker and trying to figure out how the take up reel works. Does it somehow sense the film moving and start rotating it it as the film moves? Or is it a speed adjustment knob that controls the rotation speed? I would think a knob controlling it would cause problems since every print speed is different.
  15. Yea I refill my carts (I just leave them in the printer) at least 8 times a day. Colors probably 3-4. I'll get this all figured out eventually. I don't give up lol. I am going to get the powder shaker machine and hopefully that will help me dial things in.
×
×
  • Create New...