johnson4

Just a follow up- I’ve been testing the OEM ink system for a while now and honestly- it should just be bypassed. If not, your P5000 will die within 4 months. the bypass I’ve been using for a few months has been working well, the printer head is very sensitive to the dampers you use, I mean very. I haven’t found one aftermarket damper that works with it well( they fit, just don’t work well). So I’ve been using OEM dampers and made a jig to flush/clean them as needed, with good ink about 6 months. bad/old ink- weekly to monthly.

I’m not really seeing it, just the fabric lines. It does look like little bubbles though which is bad. Not enough adhesive, or pressure, or heat, or time. If it’s thinner than 1-2mm before pressing then probably too little adhesive. hoodies usually need more adhesive, they are thicker so they also need more heat or longer time.

You should see the lines in the shirt in the transfer, that's normal. If you don't, you probably didn't press hard enough. If you kinda see them and kinda don't in some spots, your pressure is likely uneven when applying the transfer. The more pressure, generally the softer/more embedded it will be- given the transfer isn't adhesive heavy.

Just cut and clamp the tube. For one or both sides. Both are right there when you open the top lid. No disassembly required. Easy peazy.

It happens sometimes, It's always best to test the printer before converting it, especially a refurb. Could be something small/simple, I just wouldn't have any advice as I never experienced this unfortunately.

The only reason I know is the film isn’t being detected properly. Over the years I have found that every Epson printer is different in this way, for example I can have 5 p400’s- 2 of them won’t detect film properly- 3 will 2 won’t. Same for all of them I’ve tried. It’s like the Paper sensors have variations. It’s also possible it’s just defective, did you print with regular paper to test it first? generally the best route is the rear feed tray, I honestly never used any of them with cassette feeding, they have enough trouble from the rear tray long term. good luck!

That looks really good. I still haven’t found the version I have somewhere so yet to test.

Version 9 doesn’t have the channel color settings does it?

Shoot, I was printing at 1440X2880 and it still did it. I will try acro 9, I have to see if I have it or if I can find it and I will follow up. Thanks for the tip!

Really? Version 9 fixed the issue? I was using Acro 10.5 and EKprint, both did the same. I will have to try Acro 9.

I have this exact same issue on a P600/P800 unit. I still haven't found out why. Perfect nozzle checks. i have bene calling them " ridges" because it's like raised bumps instead of missing lines, but it's the same thing. I have a very similar if not the same curing lamp. I think the lamp may be too powerful, but also ran the lamp as low as it would go without shutting off entirely and it does the same. Print without the lamp- prints fine.

I haven't experienced it, sorry.

There are some manifolds out there said to fit the printhead that makes dampers fit it. I had 031006 occur with 0 leaking around the 3 month mark. As well, I had sealed the flat cable connectors with silicone so I know there wasn't any ink touching anything.. I verified this when I took it apart. It seems to happen to every one of them I have used, and to most after a few months. It's one reason I consider this machine disposable based on it's cost. For $400, Getting 3-6 months use out of it is a steal. I found no evidence that the error code occured due to liquid getting to any electrical components, nothing I could find indicated this. I am not sure why it happens, but I think maybe it wicks up the side of the printhead ( the face of it) and touches the internal electronics during wiping. Every other printhead I have seen is " taller" here, this one is super short between the head face and the top of the printhead.

I can profile it, usually that’s what I do after I get the ink settings good. I just haven’t had time to mess with it just yet, I’ll update when I do.

You should replace the dampers. While you are doing that, take a syringe and hose and flush the ink bay. it might not make sense but once you remove the printhead cover you remove the damper assy. From there get a cup and paper towels and push the printhead over and disconnect the hose line to the dampers. Ink spills out. then remove the ink cartridges, use the syringe/hose and put it on the ink nipple. Flush it with warm water until it comes out clear. Reinstall the new dampers. Do a few ink charges or several cleanings. Clean the capping station really well and wet cap with cleaner for 5-10 minutes. do another heat clean and do a nozzle check on an inkjet transparency. should be good to go. about $40 in total, 2 hours worth of work. while the R3000 works, it really isn’t an ideal DTF printer. The stock ink system sucks so if you don’t use it a lot everyday, you’ll end up fighting it over half the time you do try to print. That is, of course if you don’t replace the stock ink system.

The ICC is turned off in acrorip. I also printed from EKprint with same results. I am trying unidirectional, 1440x1440 up to 2880x1440. Single pass and dual pass. I’ve tried overloading the ink as well as too ink little. Wave function on or off, no difference. The machine worked fine before the conversion with DTG ink. All I did was replace the ink system and am getting perfect nozzle checks. The person I bought the conversion supplies from suggested moving the LED to allow more time for the ink to “blend” which if it helped, was very little. I will try these solutions, hopefully it works. in my head and experience with water based inks ( which may not apply here) i feel like it’s an ink jetting issue. They are cheap Chinese inks, I think it was $8.50 for 250ML of each color per bottle. afterall I am just testing the process before investing in it. Right now it’s “cool” but they are not very durable and can be pretty easily scratched off with a fingernail if you try hard enough. I ordered a new white ink from a US supplier and will flush the white ink and test again with white only to see if it’s doing it still with the white. I will say with the LED off, while it pools the ink a bit, I do not see the “ridges” in the prints. Maybe because it’s pooling and covering them up, I’m not sure. I am using a 60W LED. Thanks.

Not really understanding this issue, nozzle checks are fine( perfect). Does this no matter the resolution or if it’s single/double pass. Wave function on or off- same Unidirectional or bidirectional- same. ink issue? if I don’t cure the ink( led off), it doesn’t do this, at least for the white. this is with new dampers and such. do you have experience with UV printing?

Been messing around with it. I have “ridges” or raised lines in my ink when it’s cured, when it’s not cured no issue. other than that seems to work well, for solid blocky designs. Intricate designs not so much- at least from a first timer.

The P6000 does 15 12”x24” an hour, or 30 12”x12” an hour hands on testing. The printhead pass is slower than anticipated so not a huge increase over the P5000 at 21 12”x12” an hour.

No problem, i hope it all Works out as intended

Honestly at the end of the day you can buy from China for about $2,000-2,500 for a machine running 80 nozzlesX6 channels. they come with the auto lift base, mug platen to print on round objects, all kinds of perks without the work. with this, you are $1,000+ just in the base, plus the printer,conversion, software, etc. you’ll easily match the same cost with many less features and reliability with alot more work. The only reason I went with what I did is due to the Dx7 versions being 4K+

https://www.unidtg.com/product/universal-a3-auto-lift-base-dtg-uv-dtf-wood-eadible/

https://www.unidtg.com/product/universal-a3-dtg-base/

There used to be, I’m not sure if there is now. the film I’ve tried isn’t very good, it’s not “ sticky” enough to be even considered anything more than a temporary sticker. I’ve got a few brands to try out though, so we’ll see.

I can confirm the adhesive will just peel off and get everywhere if it was ran through a normal printer, at least the film I tried just now. Haha.