johnson4

Are the bulbs warm or ice cold?

If it’s the correct voltage going into the machine and the temperature screen works, it’s likely a relay. If it were the bulbs I doubt all would be broken at once.

Until it isn’t.

I think we both know what that is.

I am glad you know it's not the printhead, Now the deducing to solve the problem begins. I wish you luck, It's a fun road for sure.

That doesn't mean the nozzles are not clogged, it also doesn't mean that you don't have weak nozzles. Doing a nozzle check before and after printing a solid block of color would help see what the issue is. A printhead with weak nozzles that has been running thick ink or struggling with ink flow for awhile will slowly weaken the nozzles in the printhead until it can no longer create the suction needed as the piezo crystals weaken. Eventually they will not be able to overcome the suction required to open the damper. This is why it works after a head clean until that initial pre-load of ink is dispensed and it starts struggling again. It's either a weak printhead, bad quality ink, poor quality aftermarket dampers, or something to do with your ink system. Could be poor sealing at the damper port and a busted printhead seal from improperly flushing the head. Hard to tell which without seriously digging into it. I learned long ago with Epson's it's best to stick to OEM dampers. Use a high quality ink, and make sure you clean any cartridge ports often, replacing them as needed if they have screens in them for the cartridges. That is an old printer, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's just tired, especially if you have used it for any amount of time with the thicker aftermarket inks.

I'm glad it helped some, good luck out there.

Pretty much all that needs done is what you said. I'd recommend single pass printing.

Some drivers don’t support cmyk+white. There is also a setting to check that does single pass which is needed for DTF, if it’s grayed out or not there, it’s not available for that device. I know the 4900 is basically the same, the 4800 I have no idea but I’ve seen it used for dtf. I went with the P5000 because it’s currently in production model, going into it knowing I need parts readily available. if not, I’ll be paying the difference in high priced parts or have to redo the whole thing every model change. It’s nice to get to know your machine and just have a reliable setup instead of changing models all the time. i did that too. I genuinely believe the P5000 and P6000 are the best machines I’ve ever used. I’m sure the even higher up models would be just as good or better. Well designed and quality built. I’ve made tens of thousands of prints with a slightly modified P5000/p6000before it required anything more than a damper change with basic daily routines. Can’t say that about any other model: p400,p600,p800,xp15000,R2000,R2400,c88,R3000, xp600 machines, I mean the list goes on. I’ve never felt good about buying a new printhead, except for the P5000 machine, that’s how good it has been. If the 4800 is anything like it, I’m sure you’ll love it.

That’s the part you have to test and figure out for your machine.

It's called the stepper factor in the code. You can adjust the stepper factor, PE and ASF signals in the code for your specific machine.

Hi, Adapter wasn't for sale. I made it with Tinkercad and resin printed it. If you do that yourself, be sure not to use water washable resin for obvious reasons. I copied the original cartridge with a caliper and found the aftermarket carts ( back then) were insufficient in sealing properly. I was going to add a small square sponge in that cavity at the bottom of the adapter to mimic the original function, which I would pull from the oem carts and cut them to size. The aftermarket carts that I purchased( multiple sets from various suppliers) were not sealing very well to the original gasket. The original cartridges sealed perfectly, so I copied those. It should only take a couple hours to replicate and a few more hours to test fitment. I have moved onto bigger and faster machines and I didn't keep the project on file so I no longer have it available. I currently use the P5000/P6000 machines with adapters for the damper assembly for the white ink and circulation system made from the same resin. They haven't failed in over 4 months with much thinner passageways and have helped tremendously, so I fully believe this one would have worked perfectly as well. Another user suggested taking the inline dampers ( sold on ali-express for about 0.35 each) and just pressing them into the air hole in the cartridges and sealing with silicone/super glue for the same effect. Me personally, I don't think this would stop the leaking at the base 100%, but would almost completely eliminate it due to the vacuum of the damper. For the price of 3 xp-15000 printers you can have twice the print speed, built in vacuum tray and cutter and mythical reliability from the printheads, including recovering clogs. After you go through a couple of the 15000s you'll have wished you went a different route. Most people do unless strictly small scale use, at which point it would be cheaper/easier to just buy the transfers from someone local. It's one of those starter machines to dip your toes in the water of DTF printing, not something you really stick to to build a business around without serious modification, in which case the print speed alone can justify a different machine.

The P600 DTG can work for DTF flatbed printing, however it's not very efficient and will require a lot of hands on to keep it going especially with the stock ink system. Not to be the bad guy but in general the DTG era is close to being over with support for these printers basically non-existent now. Discontinued by Epson and every other brand has moved onto DTF, it would likely be best to sell the kit and move onto a DTF machine. If it's new, it would be great for a UV printer conversion, or UV DTF. That 2 year gap there from purchasing the machine to trying to set it up kind of missed the window of opportunity. I had four of them, they were a huge pain- I mean seriously- but I stuck with them because I had to. Everyday I was fixing one, hence why I had four. Switching to DTF has supercharged our business and has given me so much more time I would never go back, even on the consumer level they are receiving a better quality product with DTF. The only exception is CMYK only ink printing with DTG, but even still hardly worth it compared to going with sublimation. It's not the DIY conversion versions, all of them are like this. DTF will be the same as well with the white ink unless you get a good system and not a conversion, or make a good ink system for the conversion printer. Most of the DTG machines did not have this. Me personally I just purchased a cheaper CMYK only DTG machine ( Roland) for CMYK only prints on light garments and use DTF for everything else. Not a single complaint.

That is a popular controller, just reset it to factory default. should be documentation online. most relays have a signal light to show its activated.

The P5000 as-is out of the box, if used everyday, cleaned and ink shaken properly can give you 2-3 months of solid rather stress free use. After that, you have to remove the dampers and clean/replace them and flush the white white ink system. I used empty carts and an ink pump to pump water/cleaner in the cartridge through the air vent when installed. Catch the dirty cleaner from the damper side connection until it flows clean. Put it all back, it’ll work another 2-3 months until you need to do it again. modification will make your life easier if done from the beginning, but it’s hard to know what you should do until you see it’s faults first hand. The printer does not like aftermarket dampers in any form, so that can get expensive at $15 an oem damper. I printed a Jig to flush and backflush OEM dampers. Works perfect. I have extra OEM dampers, new, in the event they wear out. So far, none have. I do have a set pre flushed/cleaned for faster swapping. Takes me about 5 minutes to swap the whole set of dampers start to finish when needed without any mess. I chose to stick with the OEM damper assembly, instead of removing it and using aftermarket dampers. Again, it doesn’t like aftermarket dampers. Instead I printed an adapter and continue to use the OEM setup for cmyk, and use the adapter I made to inject the white ink from an auto circulation/mixing system into the oem damper. I get 1-3 months usually on the oem dampers before they need flushed. I run an in-line filter, and pressurize my white ink system to oem specs. All I have to do every morning is clean the wiper and do a head clean before they are good for the day. I also use the p6000, which is very similar to the P5000, except this machine rarely needs the dampers changed/cleaned due to the angle of the printhead. It’s been working 4+ months with only cleaning the wiper/printhead face as needed. Again, same thing for the white ink on this one. building a solid white ink system is important and worth the extra time before you get started. Ever since doing mine this way, and keeping everything clean, it’s literally been smooth sailing everyday for a very long time. I haven't had a stubborn clog or drop out in almost 6 months. It’s insanely relieving I have a setup that just works, but I had to make those mistakes to get here. I’ve been printing over 600 transfers a day this whole time without a hiccup from the printers at all. but that’s me, my environment, and my custom made parts. Yours will be different.

No problem, I hope it helps in some way. I have never heard of cracking DTF prints, but failures after washing could be multiple things, including the ink, powder, curing and application. Unfortunately that is just how it goes, we all have to learn from our mistakes, which comes at a cost. Buying 300 12" X 12" transfers outright would cost you under 1000 euros delivered. However, if you are able to figure out what happened and why the machine failed, maybe it will help in future progression. There isn't a DTF printer that won't let you down, not exactly. It's more/less your experience in keeping it in tip top shape and how to quickly diagnose and repair the issues without doing things that ultimately break the machine. someone could take the cheapest and most expensive DTF printer on the market and both would break pretty quickly without the knowledge to run and maintain them properly. I hope that doesn't sound like I am saying you don't know what you are doing, I am just saying it honestly requires you to make those mistakes to learn from or buying from a supplier who is financially responsible for providing you with accurate use instructions/care. That white ink is killer, mixed with the typical user response to those issues, it breaks stuff. Me personally, I have broken over 10,000 euros worth of stuff in the last 2 years. The best printer I have used is the P5000, built in suction tray, resilient printhead and is twice as fast as the P800. Native for roll printing and offers a dedicated storage position and can clean each channel independently. The p800 usually dies from head strikes, which a built in suction tray will fix. Bypassing the OEM white ink system on the P5000 and doing the other things I mentioned, it'll run for a long time without extra costs. But again, It is still subject the mistakes. Do one heavy clean mistaking a partially clogged damper as a nozzle clog, the suction can destroy that channel in one clean. I understand entirely, this stuff is insanely expensive. When we started out we couldn't even buy a $100 B/W laser printer for order sheets. It's been almost 10 years day and night and I am tired to my core- just when we start to make it. I hope you end up having it work out for you, It's tough in the beginning for sure. Depending on what happened to your first printer, I would consider looking into maybe fixing it instead of deepening the investment.

Most Epson’s ( mainly the printhead) seem to fail around 2-3 months when starting out. Usually due to the ink. its until you learn how to keep the ink mixed, dampers changed/cleaned before there is a problem, and keeping the cap station in good shape. the main Thing is ink, ink system(dampers), head strikes. get that down on any printer and it’ll last seemingly forever. I have a machine running the original printhead, it has printed over 17,000 linear foot (50+ rolls) of transfers and still has 100% nozzles going strong for the last 12 months. That’s over a lot in transfers on a cheap conversion with a very small startup cost. Yes it has its down time, but I make it scheduled to keep things good before they go bad. This machine works 8 hours a day 5 days a week religiously. I can take this same machine, brand new, and it will fail in 2-3 months ( depending on its use) due to lack of experience or noticing symptoms before they are severe. Once they are severe( when most people notice it) , your going to be replacing something expensive usually. I know because I made this mistake several times. you basically want to replace/deep clean the dampers, waste pump, clean the face of the printhead and wiper religiously based on how you use it, BEFORE they fail or cause issues and do it the right way, not the cheap/easy way. It takes time to get it right and to learn the “pattern”. I am thrilled because I have been running a few machines that do over 100 sq ft an hour combined and haven’t had a single issue out of any of them after finding my pattern with a small investment. I’ve had new printheads on the shelf since their inception, which I haven’t had to use after that first failure last year, the one that i used/damaged to find my pattern with these machines. It’s not a lost cause or wasted money, it’s experience that helps you move forward. It’s all about persistence and learning based on your experience, not necessarily following others advice, especially without knowing the basics first hand. you are either going to pay for the knowledge upfront from a supplier, or pay for it later with mistakes on the DIY route. Isn’t a way around that honestly. mistakes are inevitable and necessary to learn. my maintenance and scheduling will not be the same as yours, because it’s based on the machines environment and use. There isn’t really a blanket answer to this as it’s a variable.

The output tray needs to be level. The head strike you are experiencing is from the film bubbling up under the printhead. When paired with a shaker, this doesn't happen. By sheet, the output tray has to be smooth and spot on for height, which is difficult with this machine. You can also set the printhead to print further away from the film in the settings to help prevent this. Careful, as that is what will kill the printhead.

It happens, often in my experience. process of elimination. If it flips immediately it must be a dead short, breaker could be bad too though. With all heaters off it’s still flipping immediately, I replaced the breaker on mine. But like I said I have a 220V unit with the Gfci in the breaker box, not in the unit. I bet that 6 gauge wire was fun to run.

45 amps at 120V is wild. Your standard 200 amp whole house service can only handle around 100 amps per side. So you will likely have a unbalanced electrical box. just look on Amazon for dz47le-63. That’s a 63 amp breaker. They are like $17. That’s a fault breaker, so it could be doings it’s job and protecting you. I’d be careful. every shaker I’ve used had an issue new out of the box in some form. You’ll also run across needing to repair them often. Best to get to know it now, then later.

It’s always a gamble, even with someone who has been reliable for years otherwise. Not to be disheartened, but kinda the way large imports go, at least from my experience. I have purchased 3 shakers and 2 printers overseas so far. All of them had minor to major discrepancies from overseas. all of them had to have something fixed to work from the get-go before using them and have very poor support. They constantly need worked on anyway, so it’s not really that bad if you are experienced. On my own imports I spend hours asking for photos, videos, verifying what I see is exactly what I’ll get- a month later it’s an entirely different machine and they say “ oh well, new model”. It’s infuriating, yet they wrap themselves with various “ agreeements” that prevent you from getting it corrected, unless you find a loophole in their approach. This happened 3 times, once without a loophole to get it corrected. my point is it’s kind of always a shot in the dark, while I’m sure there are higher percentages of happy consumers from certain suppliers, there is always a risk. Even from reputable companies. if you buy one in the US, you have laws covering your purchase as well as warranties. Those import fees on large items are not overlooked, when you add in all that said and done delivered, I stick to already imported machines at this point. It’s not worth it to me personally. All said and done you can get what you need from the US for a couple thousand more with the guarantee and warranties. Sometimes not even that much more. I have definitely learned the savings are not worth it and turn out to not actually be savings, unless you are well versed in imports or use a broker.

Not that I’m aware of. If it’s bad you can just let it run dry. And make it a white. They want over $2,000 to start for customization of a driver, no matter how small of a change if it’s not already there. I would recommend acro rip 11, it has that feature.

I do not.

The dampers just pop out after you release the clip beside the damper you are removing. The center switching damper has a screw that requires removing the top with all the screws. One screw and then the last damper will come out. the others come out with the clip. Be sure you are ready for the spew of liquid to come out when you remove the dampers. I found it easier to disconnect the 11 channel hose with the 4 screws and do the work outside/away from the machine the first time.

I am sorry to hear this. There are ways around the print volume and maintaining this machine. The p5000/P6000 is very resilient, I mean- beyond anything I have EVER used before. It’s the printhead, it’s badass compared to any other printhead I’ve used. I have learned alot, as always happens when you run a new model. Aftermarket dampers? Forget it, the machine will not work well if it all. Entirely aftermarket ink system? Again, due to poorly designed available aftermarket dampers it will not work well or consistently. Every aftermarket damper( oem style or just the kind you would use if you removed the stock ink system entirely) causes ink starvation. The oem dampers require very little “ suction” from the printhead to open. All the aftermarket’s require more suction than OEM, which printhead cannot offer. I have successfully flushed and back flushed the OEM dampers multiple times, they work like new. After spending $90 for 6 dampers X5 I had to have another solution. I made a “jig” with a pump to do this. I did the same for the printhead, which is why I’m saying this printhead is resilient. The moment settled white ink hits the dampers output and goes into the printhead you’ll notice the channel drop entirely, or come and go over and over. STOP and immediately replace the dampers. If you continue to force this “sludge” into the printhead the extremely thick blockage ( imagine putting Elmer’s glue in your dampers then sucking that into your printhead) will cause the seal to damage and that channel pair is done- unreliable and unrepairable. The difference can be described like a fountain drink through a straw vs drinking a blizzard through a straw. you can back flush this stuff out of the printhead very carefully and replace the dampers. The OEM system needs flushed manually. Remove damper assy- insert full cartridge into white channel- use silicone hose in “air” vent in cartridge with a pump or syringe to pump air or liquid into the cartridge. Use container to catch liquid coming from the damper end of the hose. Flush until entirely clear for each white line. Usually 400ML per line. Regular water works. Then do a final flush with cleaner. Replace the dampers, clean the bottom of the printhead,wiper, sealing cap, and capping station. reinstall white ink/fully assemble. Do an ink charge from the administration menu followed by 4-5 regular ( not strong) cleanings. problem solved. Using expired or close to expired ink can make this need done as little as every week. Good white ink can go 3 months without issue. Personally after a few times doing this I just made an aftermarket white ink tank mixing/circulation system and left the cmyk oem using OEM dampers as well as left the rest of the system oem. Problem solved. Takes 5 minutes to swap dampers with refurbished dampers when they need cleaned, which isn’t often since it’s recirculating/mixing the ink automatically. It was about $100 to do this ink circulation system without that stupid paddle ink mixing system.