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johnson4

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Everything posted by johnson4

  1. Thanks. I don’t know how on earth I got that wrong, lol.
  2. I’m sure you could get it going, if not a good flush and a new head is worst case scenario if it’s in good shape otherwise.
  3. It’s not bad, I had mine apart in about 15 minutes. I’ll pm you the manual in a bit
  4. looks like printhead power failure, aka, probably a shorted out printhead from liquid.
  5. People refill the oem carts, cause apparently the aftermarket sucks.
  6. They don’t have them, I don’t think. It’s one time chips or Chipless for this one. honestly, if it’s that much struggle I would try cleaning them up and selling them/exchanging them with Epson then selling them. Pick up a P series printer, and be done. Your best bet is going to be the P800, they were available for $800 yesterday, sell the ink for $400 and have a solid $400 in it, Chipless, $30 for some refillable carts-boom- DTF on the cheap with a printer that won’t give you those issues.
  7. I’m glad it could help, Yea the transfer should peel off like a Plastisol one, it’ll rip easier because it’s thinner, but the same concept, didn’t even think of that. I use a bit thicker film and a bit more ink than most, I agree 300 is a little hot, but it works in a hurry
  8. I have never once shaken pigment inks, or noticed settling from them in the years I have used them, unless they are going on years old. I think epson has the P800 pigment carts on a 3 year shelf life. once installed they have a one year lifespan without being removed and shaken. I have noticed them coagulate in older unused printers I have purchased though. However, I can't say that it wouldn't clog the printer since pigments carry larger particles and it was designed for dye based inks. I encountered that often with low quality aftermarket ink.
  9. Not going to lie, I have done this, lol.
  10. Alibaba, seems like a good machine. Epson based, so you can use any RIP and not limited to whatever they have available for them in China. it’s $1600 without shipping/head. They have two versions, one like the l1800 and one like the p400. personally I’m going to swap the mainboard/head from a p400, boom. All my problems solved with a good, fast and reliable printer. After watching many videos, I don’t see any printer faster than the P series, which is the dx5/dx7 head. While i could likely replicate everything the machine does, I just don’t have that time anymore, but it’s Epson based which is a huge plus for me, maybe not for others. I watched a 4 head tx600 printer move half as fast as one of these. Maybe the I3200 heads are faster, all I know is I can print about 15 feetx 13” in an hour on 1440 resolution for double layer transfers, 30ish for single layer. Having multiple smaller units seems more ideal than one large one, for obvious reasons. it’s the same one at kingdom Direct to film .com they sell for $5,500.
  11. Not a problem. Personally I don't think it is the humidity, rather the ink not curing all the way. That "oily" substance on it after it sits is probably the ink not being cured. I've noticed that too on under cured prints. my situation as well has high humidity, around the same as yours, slightly less. Testing it like you said should let you know if it is being under cured though. With direct contact with the heating element, it takes mine about 2 minutes to fully cure at 300ish degrees. I gave up on hover curing after 5 minutes not cutting it at 375, I use a clam press so one side is closer than the other to the film.
  12. I haven’t had this problem, but might be a curing problem. When the ink is cured, it leaves behind an oily residue. Say I print 200 transfers on an auto cure machine, at least a cap full comes out in the evaporation that isn’t water. It gets everywhere and sucks, but I just wipe it off the fan/curing unit. might not be fully curing the ink, I haven’t experienced this issue. If you see “ steam” or smoke come from the shirt when you press, it’s probably not cured all the way.
  13. Probably cheap if you did by sea shipping, that’s with DHL shipping.
  14. Personally, I’m going to pick one of these up, they are about $1,900 delivered without the heads. the time it will save me will be priceless in terms of doing the work myself, and it resolves all the problems I have with even a P series printer. It’s basically a p400 with a white ink management system, ciss tanks, air vacuum and all that crap with the roll holder and such.
  15. The P series is always the best option if you have it available to you. The 15000 works, but for the less experienced can be a PITA.
  16. what I did, ( and people do different things). I just removed the top, the cotton pads, and drilled a 3/4 hole or so in the top center and put it back on. That’s it. Use a syringe and empty it, or leave the top off and dump it out. Just be careful when moving the printer, take it out first or it’ll spill. Generally it won’t overfill since you have to reset the chip on it, so it works out.
  17. There are different things like graphics, etc settings. White only is in there. If you don’t want a white underbase since your using a white shirt, uncheck it. The opacity under the white settings determines what gets what ink and how much. So say that is set to 0, then only white in the design is printed. The lower that number, down to 50, the more ink it puts down in those areas, also increasing the darker areas getting white ink. If you select 50, they all get white ink, like the transparency settings. if you are trying to print white ink, you need underbase on, or the white only settings. If you have white in the design and under base isn’t checked, it won’t print the white. It’s basically an on/off switch for white ink.
  18. I'm not kidding at all, buy a cheap $200 heat press, take it apart and put the top on the bottom removing the bottom platen and making it the top platen. You can use some thin sheet metal and make it like a " box" around the heated portion, slide your film in at 300-325 degrees and it will cure in around a minute. they make presses that go all the way up to 20x24, but they get expensive. a 15x15 should be plenty though. I've ran my machine like that for months now, thousands of prints, and it cures better than anything else I have tried, the most consistent too. Either that or Buy the $500 one they sell on Aliexpress that does the same thing. Personally, I have tried the flash dryer, the Auto mini machine, and this heat press method. The heat press works the best, because it is a solid, consistent heat. I'll be modifying my Auto mini machine to have a thick plate instead of the thin metal so it will hold some heat and create an even heating environment so it will also cure from both sides. Not that it is a problem, but I'm very "specific' with what I want and see how to make that happen with this other machine.
  19. I did the same, e I did the same, except a Philip #2 screwdriver. Heated it up, push it where it originally went before I stripped it out and made the slot deeper, and fit to that screwdriver. Only needed to do it once, ever since I haven’t needed to do it. yours looks rough, I’d probably replace it since they aren’t terribly expensive and depending on how old it is. but there a a ton of things you could do. good luck
  20. Yea it sounds pretty cool. The only thing I missed was what controlled the pressure that accurately at that low of a psi with the cheaper units. That’s kind of what I had in was the printhead doctor brand, just so damn expensive. I’m running p400’s and while I can buy a few heads from Epson for $500 each, in the future If I have issues I’ll probably end up making/buying one myself.
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