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Everything posted by johnson4

  1. This makes sense, you can see it’s in the ink layer. I will also agree this is probably your issue. While that’s a bit hot for 50/50, it would be across the entire design and faded looking. Probably a hot spot in curing.
  2. Your could try a lower temp, most powders melt around 210-220 degrees. So you could press colder. That’s pretty high of a temperature for a 50/50 blend.
  3. You can’t, you just place your print around it.
  4. Cadlink wants an additional $800 to make your own color profile within Cadlink. Shooting that cost up to $1,195 for the program and the ability to make your own ICC. Looks like you can control a few more aspects to better the print mode, still very expensive.
  5. I put a fan on my heat sink and it worked fine. After a few hours of printing without it, it would get hot and reset.
  6. I’m not sure. That’s the thing, I’m certain each printer they support is individually tested/modified before being added. So I feel like each printer is going to be different with them. It prints insanely slow though, with Cadlinks standard 1440x720 mode. I’m not sure how that print time is acceptable, it’s not to me. I agree 100% that sucks with EKprint. Color adjustment is something that guy needs to work on, at least before I ever recommend it for color prints again. I mean, what kind of RIP doesn’t allow you to add your own profile? I was able to easily add mine into acro and Cadlink. If acro wasn’t so slow, I’d definitely use it instead. I do the same thing, I think most of us do business wise. Like your drag and drop feature, I click open- type the file name partially-press enter. Type my width, and it’s automatically centered in the film for easily alignment in press ( for me). Takes me about 10 seconds per print, since they all need their size adjusted. with EK I print 39 12x12 prints an hour normally, when I do black or white in the p800. The p400 gave me around 35, so not much of a difference in my opinion. I think it’s all RIP related.
  7. Good luck with that guy, honestly. Over the years I’ve just gotten tired of warning people, used to I would write a book. Lol. yea, DIY is the way to go if you like making things. my harbor freight cart mini shaker works better than the one I bought now, and it will only continue to improve. I’m in the p800/cart less than $1,000 for roll off transfers. The p400 that was on it died of unknown reasons after about 3000-4000 transfers. i highly recommend not paying full price for a desktop printer, from anyone. Do those yourself. For the price you buy them they are disposable. A Ciss system with white ink never works out long term either, not without a way to shake the white ink effectively and daily. If you want “ high and mighty” order an Audley kit from DTGsuperstore or China directly. At least those are worth replacing parts on. Good luck!
  8. I trialed kothari once- but I had no idea what I was doing and got hit with orders so I didn’t mess with it much. Since the trial takes a dongle unfortunately I’ll probably never try it again. Thanks for your input! i genuinely think knowing all the rip options, actual print times and quality would be awesome.
  9. I agree, this is just one of a few I printed. I can test print this file as well though . the different rips also process image quality differently, even if it is a high quality file. This one would definitely show how bad EKprint and acrorip are with greens.
  10. Now these aren’t the best photos or comparisons, but one image I tested. The image wasn’t modified in any way, which is why you see white pixels around the image. this is Acro:
  11. By the way, these print times are based on an Epson P800 DTF printer, Using DTFsuperstore inks, film, and powder. I also made a mistake, Acro is twice as fast as Cadlink, not 4 times as fast for the same quality print.
  12. I'll add photos a bit later, But overall this is what I'm getting: Basically each rip performs differently in the "resolution" factor. For example, CADlink printing at 1440X720, prints slow as hell for the resolution. For every single print, if you look up close it has lines it, noticeable on darker colors for sure.. No its not me, I'm running a perfect nozzle check, and it's only when I print with cadlink. In 1440x720 mode, the prints take the same amount of time as acrorip in 1440x1440 mode, almost anyway, except in Acro, Your getting double the Color resolution- so no banding and overall better quality transfer. Ekprint, clearly prints the fastest, without any banding at all. It's the fastest, cutting down print times by at least 50 percent over the other two. the problem with Ekprint is in the color department. The guy who made it doesn't care to help you with it, doesn't make detailed instructions and honestly, I don't feel like cares overall. He's in his 60's now and has been dealing with EKprint since back in 2005-ish. Support over the years has for sure trailed downhill. I was told With EKprint, You can load a custom color profile, but the image must be in TIFF format and use the custom settings. Doesn't work for me. Ek fails to load, and to top this off, It's a PITA, and doesn't work for me. That's as far as I got, Even loading the profile into the image doesn't work, since EK doesn't have an option to disable it's color management. AcroRip has a very simple method, Enable/Disable color management. I used an X-rite and made a color profile within minutes on Acro. Very easy. Colors are almost perfect, except for greens. I will later on do spot color's of greens and such to try and make the profile better so Acro has a chance against Cadlink. The rest of the colors I have printed, all look great, almost exact to the calibrated screen. The downfall to Acro to me, Is how long it takes to process. *****OVERALL***** Acro Prints the same speed as Cadlink, but at twice the resolution. If you print Acro the same ( 1440x720) speed as Cadlink, It literally prints twice as fast( as fast as EK in 1440x1440 mode), with the same up close banding. If I printed them side by side, you probably couldn't tell a difference, as long as the image didn't have greens in it. So your looking at a 50 percent speed increase in production time in comparison, as long as you don't need to achieve bright green colors. Ekprint prints insanely fast in comparison to the two other programs. The colors are not as good as Acro ( profiled) or Cadlink. Some colors are spot on, while others are shades off. Adjusting the program can achieve good greens, but then that makes other colors off. The built in Color management in EK is the issue. So unless the EK owner decides to make color management better, or allow better profiling for different inks, It's last on my list for color reproduction. Cadlink mainly focuses on the editing of the images, instead of printing them. I think their print engine could be better( how it makes the printer print), while the software blows both ACRO and EKprint out of the water, the print resolution for the speed is sub-par. Cadlink has this awesome ability to process images in a way to make all the colors pop, and be as accurate as possible, while retaining crisp edges and separations for the most part. My HUGE downfall for cadlink is the resolution it's printing at, and the banding ( now this is small banding), if your 5-8 inches away from the print, you can't see it AT ALL. But up close, you can see it plain as day, depending on the colors. This is a big negative for me, When I'm printing full color images, I want the colors to be good AND the quality. With that said, I personally feel not one of these programs is perfect for " real world" printing. BUT, If you want the best colors for the sacrifice of speed, and can deal with miniscule banding, Cadlink is the way to go. This banding isn't visible unless you really look, and isn't noticeable on a shirt. However, for slightly less "color pop" I can increase my print speed by 50% by using Acro. If you are cool with miniscule banding( same as cadlink), and cool with a bit less color accuracy and pop instead, Acro-rip is the way to go, at nearly 4 times the speed of cadlink ( 1440X720). If you don't want the banding, then print in 1440x1440 mode, at the same speed as cadlink, without the banding. If your cool with NO banding at all, and want the fastest RIP available with small variations in colors, Use ekprint. It is by far the fastest, but the worst for color accuracy. Ekprint- $350 ( for single computer/printer model use) can handle many instances running, so I can print on as many P800's as I want with this one copy. Non-transferable. However, If I switch printer models I have to buy it again. Cadlink- $400- Works only on ONE printer at a time, Can only open it ONCE, Dongle can be moved from PC to PC, I'm not sure about dongle-free versions. Works on many models, not limited to one. Acrorip 9.03- dongle free versions are all over the net at 0 cost- I'm not really sure what a genuine version costs, but whatever that is. It Will only run one printer at a time, but works for many different models, and of course can be installed and moved around as you please. I want to Also mention, From what I have read, Acro-rip 10.3 is not from the same people who made acrorip 9.03. From reading, It looks like a company took AcroRip, modified it and resold it as 10 and is claiming the program. That is why the program looks identical, except it has a few added features. I feel like this program was ripped off by a company( because the original owner didn't claim it, or couldn't) , modifying it a bit, and claiming it is theirs. Even the "new" features pop up windows are different than the original programs. Unless it supports a new printer 9 doesn't, I don't see it worth what they want for 10. No free trials, No video's on how slow it processes, just another " sly" way to take advantage of people. Acro 10 HAS ALREADY been "compromised" and being sold by Chinese sellers for less than half the asking price. Give it a little time, and I'm sure that price will go down as well, unless you just want to spend the $395 for support reasons. So, I will Use EKprint for my daily printing to save over 50 percent of my time and cost. For premium images, I will use Cadlink, since it does indeed make the colors pop, at nearly the same speed as acro. If this very light banding turns into an issue at any point, I will use Acro instead. If I didn't already own Cadlink, I would be using Acro instead and wouldn't even consider cadlink. If my printing needs relied on ONLY ONE of these RIPS, It would be EKprint. I can't afford to stand around and watch something take 6-10 minutes to print for slightly better colors. Some people might, but I'd rather turn out 30-35 prints an hour instead of 10. My opinions on the support: While cadlinks support is decent, you get a different overwhelmed person each time. Many times, there isn't a solution, unless it's a basic issue with installation, or operation. Many time's I have been told " it is what it is". Many times, All I hear is bragging about the programs features, instead of it's function as a RIP program and how the issue is my fault. Basically, If I have an " advanced" problem and it isn't documented or doesn't work as their "self help" feature claims, your on your own. I will say, they do listen to their customers and I expect this program to get better with time. Ekprint support used to be amazing, but I'm assuming with a large workload of people, it has been degrading ever since last year. I don't feel the maker has any real interest in making the colors any better, relying on you to figure that out. a small " how-to" or simple ICC profile integration override button would be sufficient to make this the best rip software out there, while also being the most expensive in it's class. Obviously, Acro 9 has no support, and I don't think it needs it. It's as basic as it gets, and as simple as it gets. I have never ran into one single question, knowing nothing about Acro that I couldn't figure out within a few minutes of looking.
  13. For a 10x10 color\white image this is what happened, exactly the same across all 3: Acro 9 1440x1440: rip- 1 minute 9 seconds prinr- 7 minutes 2 seconds total: 8.21 minutes color accuracy 7.5/10 overall quality- 8/10 cadlink: rip- 11 seconds print 6 minutes 25 seconds total: 6.36 minutes overall color accuracy- 9/10 Overall quality - 7/10 ekprint- 1440x1440: rip- 13 seconds print- 3 minutes 42 seconds. total: 3.55 minutes overall color accuracy- 6/10 overall quality- 8/10
  14. DTF and DTG are the same in terms of maintenance. the first and foremost rule for new users for BOTH processes: white ink is nothing like anything else you’ve encountered. It settles, it clogs faster, and cannot sit, you can’t leave it “open” or it will dry out or coagulate. It will clog More often, period. 1. you literally have to shake the ink each day. Not every other day, not sometimes. Daily. 2. you must be very specific and thorough with your cleaning. Wiper, capping station top, wet cap etc. 3. You can’t ever let the printer sit when white ink is put into it. If it’s something like an Epson p400/ dx5, you could easily clean it with cleaning cartridges and let it sit however long you want. It doesn’t have an ink system. Any printer that doesn’t have cartridges directly on the head, has an ink system, like the p600/p800. The p800 can sit longer and flush ink out better, unlike the p600, but rule of thumb, don’t let them sit more than 48 hours without printing and 24 hours without shaking the ink and carts. with that out of the way, it really depends on what you are looking for in your business. DTF has 1-2 ink layers, and a plastic powder adhesive on the back. So when finalized ON the shirt it does have a hand feel, unlike sublimation. It can be minimized though with putting down the least ink possible and learning how to use your powder. DTG uses 1-2 ink layers, and a pretreatment that must be evenly applied ( in the right amount) on the shirt, dried, then printed and dried again. DTG kn white almost feels like sublimation. Black only feels like screenprinting until washed, then feels like sublimation. Anything with white under it, has a hand feel, which depends on how you cure it. I press mine, which makes for a smooth screen printed feel. for you, DTF and DTG will have similar costs in materials. if you buy an OEM printer that requires BRANDED ink, you’ll never make money, period. I will be talking about DIY DTG vs DIY DTF. DTF ink is much cheaper than DTG ink. Literally, less than half as cheap. DTF inks last nearly twice as long. So overall it ends up being 1/4 the cost of DTG ink overall. BUT you need to factor in film and powder costs. If you buy from a supplier, it’s roughly .50 a 12x13 design for film, powder and ink are very minuscule. I pay 0.23-0.33 cents a 12x13 design. Add in ink and powder, I would guesstimate around .10 cents, my printer shows roughly 0.05-0.10 cents in ink each print. So overall, $0.43-$0.70 a 12x13 print roughly for DTF. DTG is more expensive, using Kodak/dupont ink at the cheapest price of $117 a liter color, or $125/$145 a liter white. My overall average was over $1 per print in ink, if you go OEM, like an Epson F2100 or any other “branded” ink, it’s going to run you $3-$5 a print in ink. Don’t forget pretreatment. I put down roughly $0.60 cents per dark shirt, maybe $0.30 per light( no white ink). so overall cost for one 12x13 print roughly: DTF: $0.43-$0.70 DTG: $1.60-$2.60 for aftermarket, up to $5-$6 a print for OEM. I don’t really calculate ink waste, but DTG will be more due to the higher ink cost. The rest is the same. As for washability- both are very comparable. One will crack and fade and peel over time( DTG). And one can wrinkle, peel, and bubble (DTF). If not done properly anyway. Overall if done correctly, they are about the same. for terms of hand feel and quality, DTG will always be softer, but it depends. without white, it wins, always. With white, it wins, in terms of hand feel on large patches. Now, DTF can feel equally the same if you are printing a broken up design. If you print a large patch, like a giant green circle, it does feel like a layer of plastic on the shirt. overall, if done right, both are acceptable. I will break down my opinion on the best hand feel. 1. waterbased screenprinting 2Plastisol screenprinting 3 DTG 4 DTF 5, the worst is any laser/inkjet transfer product. now for the cheapest to expensive: 1. Plastisol screenprinting ( for larger runs) 2. Waterbased screenprinting 3. DTF 4. DTG 5 any other transfer as mentioned above. Overall, there isn’t a “best”. DTF is easier, cheaper, but does have a plastic like hand feel on large patches. Still acceptable and many places like Nike or under armor use it for their products. If done right though, you can almost completely remove that plastic feel for white only. White and color printed at the same time will always feel Like a sheet of plastic in large patches. DTG is more expensive but offers a softer hand feel and doesn’t feel like plastic, if done right. I prefer DTF for everyday normal stuff, and DTG for my premium stuff. DTG is harder to convert, much harder than DTF. They both have their place. dont forget, DTG is Limited to flat objects, any variation in thickness required You to lower your platen which sucks to do. DTF can transfer to just about anything or any shape you can press with heat. basic cost of getting into dtf: $500-$2000 for entry level. basic cost of getting into dtg: $1000-$3000 for entry level.
  15. So, While I have been working on color management, I decided to do a little testing. I have three of the main programs installed on my computer. 1. Cadlink 2. Ekprint 3. AcroRip 9.03 Now, I'm seeing photo's of peoples success, some people with fantastic colors, some people with lines in their prints( no i'm not talking about clogged nozzles). As well, Some people complaining about how long it takes for the final print. Within this thread, I will be documenting the differences between the three programs, the main advantages and disadvantages to me, which and why I prefer one over the other two. I will break down each program for my pro's and con's, with photos and possibly a video later on for proof. But, A little preview: 1 of these programs Prints Slow for the quality and leaves visible lines in the prints, at a distance, it isn't noticeable. 1 of these programs is very easily profiled and produces PERFECT colored prints at the same speed as the other, just much higher quality without the lines in the prints, while being the most color accurate. 1 of these programs processes and prints faster than the other two, at the same or better quality ( no lines) a bit harder to profile for colors, to the point some colors are just a shade off when the other is perfect. Still fantastic colors, just not as accurate as the other two. And my absolute favorite, comparing 2 of these programs at the exact same resolution settings, printing the exact same results to the point you couldn't tell which came from which program, Prints over 4X faster than the other. Yep, That's right. If you have used any of these three programs you could probably guess it. But I will break it down with: 1.Processing times ( how long the program takes to process the image to print) 2.How long the print after the job has been sent 3. Photo's, including up close of the results and possibly video of each print. All programs will be printing everything identical, resolution, image size, ink percentages, you name it- it'll be the same across all of them, printed on the same printer under the same conditions. What it boils down to for me, is Quality, Speed, color correctness. After today, My opinion has changed drastically on all three of these programs. I am baffled at the results, shocked. I will also include some ICC profiles( RGB and CMYK) for those that would like to try it, just in-case it helps. I'm profiling the DTF superstore Chinese inks. I have found it really helps, and depending on your setup, you'll only really need to change the ink density to find that sweet spot. Or, If it's 2 out of 3 of these programs, I could just tell you Stay Tuned.
  16. With my profiling, I noticed within all of my test charts cyan is the one that is mostly off. Yellow and magenta look fine. x rite has a good device that you can also use spot color for. So if you have a certain red vinyl, just scan and print the spot color and scan the printed sheet. Boom, it’ll print as close as possible to the original color. So far I’ve found the device to be worth every Penny.
  17. Right. I know what you mean. The problem I have encountered is even batch to batch the film can be different. Has happened to me as well. Also some films don’t work with certain inks- blah blah. That’s why it’s easiest to just order from one supplier, not necessarily the cheapest. im working an in ICC right now actually to get the colors just right
  18. I buy from DTFsuperstore, and I also buy from Alibaba, depending on my needs. I get all my inks and whatnot from DTFsuperstore only. Basically the film I shop around on, but be careful, I’ve bitten the bullet many times, which is why I won’t recommend anyone in particular.
  19. I’m In the US so I won’t be of much help. DTFsuperstore or China direct.
  20. I haven’t noticed any difference in that aspect, cold peel seems to be a bit more dull looking. personally, I’m a hot peel guy. Have about 25 rolls of it, makes production much faster too. Cold peel literally means cold peel- room temperature.
  21. Just following up, using the OMRON genuine relays, the mini shaker has been working very well. After a few weeks of printing the relays show no signs of wear at all.
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