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johnson4

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johnson4 last won the day on April 5

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About johnson4

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  • Birthday 09/03/1990

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  1. DTF isn’t the same ink, not even close. It’s been discussed often. While they aren’t the same, some are interchangeable, yes. DTG ink is truly water based, DTF ink contains an oily substance, I know, it gets everywhere within my heated extractor, and drips out of the bottom and makes a huge mess, dtg ink evaporated away completely. Can water clean it up? Yes, but it doesn’t evaporate away like water. Basically, DTF ink is WATER SOLUBLE instead of water based, in my opinion. Put some on your fingers, rub it, then wash with water. Dtg carrier washes away, DTF carrier beads up, and repe
  2. This is with double pressing with heavy pressure( like almost can’t close the press?).
  3. I also went down the toner path years ago, but I converted an HP laser printer instead of spending the money on one. I had also used the weedless two part and white toner. The machine I made has been working well, it wasn’t terribly hard to make. It’s going to take me take some to make the guide, it’s been getting busy around here. I didn’t think anyone was really interested honestly, haha. I don’t remember the exact cost I came up with, but I know it was under 0.50 cents for a regular sized print, using the roll method for DTF.
  4. To put it another way, I have 6 DTG printers, that now sit idle and unused because of DTF. It can work great, minus the learning curve. Ordering quality stuff, will minimize that. Things will probably still happen, it’s a learning process. But, it’s not hard, and works well. I will say the “ trying to save money” aspect from ordering directly from China, has not served me well with DTF products. From using DTFsuperstore, my per print costs are less than half of what DTG was for me. Definitely recommend it.
  5. I mean, overall, yes the stuff there is good quality. I’ve never had film do that, except a roll I ordered from China that was bad. Everything I’ve gotten from Andy has been A+ Personally. Worst thing I’ve gotten is a few lumps in the powder( out of a 10lb bucket, not the 1lb option), which is to be expected with that amount. I just use a flour sifter after I get it and I’m good. if your ink settings are good, and you use good quality stuff, it should only take a couple shakes and be good, powder wise. Keep in mind, you shouldn’t powder directly after printing, let it air dry for 5
  6. I want to add, I don’t know if they are actually going to add the individual channel settings, that’s just what he said on the phone to me when I asked. I wouldn’t hold my breath over it. Honestly, I was disappointed in their customer service, that’s why I’m not sure if they will actually do that. but I can also understand why. It’s on par with the rest of them in the price range, so when I say that I only mean it’s not what I expected based on what I saw, read, and understood about them before buying it, my fault. It’s a good program though. A great program. it does print
  7. That makes sense why they chose the ink order like that, but when people ( including me) set up the printer, I doubt that comes to Mind. I had to switch mine around too. I’d personally only recommend doing it if your going to buy it, or can change the ink settings in your current rip software- just in case you don’t like it. Andy is absolutely right about the distilled water, it’s more of a time consuming process than a costly process.
  8. That sucks, sorry if I got your hopes up, it’s just what mine said. That really should have been something that was available from the get-go. flushing and changing colors can be a PITA on a printer with an ink system, and the dedication to the software just to test print.
  9. Top toolbar- Tools-options check “ show advanced settings and options” is what I did. Then, to find the options for the printer, there are a few ways. But, just double click the queue, click color layer, then printer options. this is where you can save it for just that queue/printer profile or you can go and manage the profiles and change them all to that setting individually so whichever profile you choose will be that. I was wrong in the order they have as options. It’s: WWWWKCMY or YMCKWWWW i don’t recommend the higher r
  10. That’s good to know. I just bought 15 sets of carts for the 15000, it was $150 for 15 sets, will be here Saturday or Monday, at $10 a set. The ciss is about $35 with shipping but I didn’t buy any of those. just an FYI, the ones without chips are like $5–$8 a set with slow shipping.
  11. I could on the P400, I don't know about the P600. I could Say I'll check for you, but I'll probably forget. They have two options, at least on the P400, after you check " show advanced settings". CMYKWWWW or WWWWCMYK Guy said they are working on making each channel available to change, but I don't really see the necessity in that with the P400.
  12. Bad film, too much ink, static, humidity level, I mean quite a few things can cause issues like that. Overall though, That’s something that is easily controlled when doing it yourself and not a standard to DTF.
  13. That’s transfer isn’t my normal, I mean plenty of things can cause it, but it’s not normal. I would have never sent that out. I have shared a few photos, but the edge should be crisp, and that powder should be non existent.
  14. It’s going to depend on the resolution and overall required settings. It might end up being faster than I thought though. The p400 on 1440x1440 resolution does about 2” a minute, or 35 prints an hour in roll mode. andy has the cheapest/best stuff around. Right now he’s out of the medium powder I use, but I’m sure what he does have will be fine. As for the film, I generally use the 11 3/4 for sheet mode, but I’m coming over from DTG, where that’s the same size my platen was. the ink has never given me a problem, and again, about the cheapest you can find anywhere if you buy
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