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johnson4 last won the day on October 16

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  1. At current, It's $1.25 a sheet ( 12x16 print area roughly). I've noticed it doesn't use as much ink as DTG. it will depend on the design size. From what I have purchased and used, it's around $1 for a 12x12 sheet of HTV, at its cheapest without buying in bulk, not saying that is top end stuff either. The cost would be slightly more, plus upkeep and ink waste. If your doing multiple layers of Vinyl, I'd consider it easily price matched. I would also consider in the waste associated with the excess vinyl. The powders go a long way, almost to the point where it's hard to calculate it at a c
  2. Thanks, I used the P800 because I couldn’t find any P600’s, so I’m not sure, Andy probably does though. Basically you just need to support the paper, Whatever the height difference is between the output roller to the top of the tray, give yourself enough room for it to eject though. Personally I used a 1/2 piece of wood( it’s not actually 1/2, and it doesn’t fit perfect), Which is supported by the output tray. It’s all I had in arms reach to get to printing.
  3. Thanks, I appreciate it. I’ll admit, I shocked myself. I do plan on sharing some more, and on different substrates as soon as I can. i think I understand now why they call it Plastisol though, the final print feels like a super smooth plastisol. that elephant in the photo is usually printed on white garments, the “ dots” and detail get lost with DTG to some degree, at least for me. The DTF picked up and kept 95% of that detail though, I didn’t expect that. so far I only really have maybe 3 hours of time spent on the actual printing part, but I feel like I’ll probably end up rec
  4. Yea, the film is super thin, so that downward angle makes it bow in the center, which happens to be at the printhead as Andy stated. It’s supported by the feeding roller right before the printhead, and the “ pizza wheels” ( I call tell them that because of the way they look, the photo community also calls it that) support it after, until you remove them.
  5. Hot peel wouldn’t be possible, the polymer needs to cool to stick to the substrate. in my opinion, it’s softer and smoother than MY normal dtg prints with a white under base. It’s comparable to a heat pressed plastisol print ( not belt dried, those are a bit rough)
  6. I’m still working on the ink settings in EK. I only put two white ink in the P800 for the time being. one thing to note, at least from my speculation, both the transfer film and the powder need to be in a sealed container, kept away from high humidity. aside from that, I love the feel of the prints, and the resolution is nice too. I think the biggest things with this, would be ink settings, and dealing with the powder. The final print isn’t glossy like you would imagine.
  7. Thanks, It's fine I still have quite a bit left. Plus the other stuff I have is working the exact same way so no worries.
  8. I’ve printed two and they look good. I actually like the hand feel, very soft. Andy, what time/temperature/pressure did you use on the heat press, and did you hot peel or cold peel? On a side note, be careful when opening the powder. The zip lock bag was taped folded over, when you pull that tape off so you can open it, it definitely rips a hole in the bag, that was fun
  9. Hey, as long as it helps that's awesome. If I am good at one thing, It's researching and giving long winded responses. It looks like it should work, that base shouldn't have very heavy power requirements. I hope you get it figured out.
  10. Yea, thats what I thought would happen too. I'm assuming your using DTF inks, The DTG inks won't work, for sure. Just bring it down, Or start lower and work your way up. Each printer ends up being a bit different anyway.
  11. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Switching-Power-Supply-12V-5A-5V-24v-20A-bar-top-game-machine-parts-led/113683254194?hash=item1a780ccbb2:g:vAcAAOSwCA5ch8VJ
  12. Depending on where you live, the power going into this power supply should match what comes out of L and N, in AC voltage from your wall. Then, the rest should match the corresponding readings listed on the power supply in DC voltage. If all of them are the same, and the input is correct, I'd assume to replace it. I have never used an analog meter, but it looks like your maybe getting around 9V out of all of them, which- obviously isn't right. personally, I would document very well the location of all the wires, then disconnect the power supply and bench test it with nothing hooke
  13. So, I received the stuff. The ink is for sure different, as well as the film coating.
  14. It was recommended to me to start off with your standard DTG settings, If you have those then tweak from that point.
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