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johnson4 last won the day on September 22

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About johnson4

  • Birthday 09/03/1990

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  1. This makes sense, you can see it’s in the ink layer. I will also agree this is probably your issue. While that’s a bit hot for 50/50, it would be across the entire design and faded looking. Probably a hot spot in curing.
  2. Your could try a lower temp, most powders melt around 210-220 degrees. So you could press colder. That’s pretty high of a temperature for a 50/50 blend.
  3. You can’t, you just place your print around it.
  4. Cadlink wants an additional $800 to make your own color profile within Cadlink. Shooting that cost up to $1,195 for the program and the ability to make your own ICC. Looks like you can control a few more aspects to better the print mode, still very expensive.
  5. I put a fan on my heat sink and it worked fine. After a few hours of printing without it, it would get hot and reset.
  6. I’m not sure. That’s the thing, I’m certain each printer they support is individually tested/modified before being added. So I feel like each printer is going to be different with them. It prints insanely slow though, with Cadlinks standard 1440x720 mode. I’m not sure how that print time is acceptable, it’s not to me. I agree 100% that sucks with EKprint. Color adjustment is something that guy needs to work on, at least before I ever recommend it for color prints again. I mean, what kind of RIP doesn’t allow you to add your own profile? I was able to easily add mine into acro and Cadlink. If acro wasn’t so slow, I’d definitely use it instead. I do the same thing, I think most of us do business wise. Like your drag and drop feature, I click open- type the file name partially-press enter. Type my width, and it’s automatically centered in the film for easily alignment in press ( for me). Takes me about 10 seconds per print, since they all need their size adjusted. with EK I print 39 12x12 prints an hour normally, when I do black or white in the p800. The p400 gave me around 35, so not much of a difference in my opinion. I think it’s all RIP related.
  7. Good luck with that guy, honestly. Over the years I’ve just gotten tired of warning people, used to I would write a book. Lol. yea, DIY is the way to go if you like making things. my harbor freight cart mini shaker works better than the one I bought now, and it will only continue to improve. I’m in the p800/cart less than $1,000 for roll off transfers. The p400 that was on it died of unknown reasons after about 3000-4000 transfers. i highly recommend not paying full price for a desktop printer, from anyone. Do those yourself. For the price you buy them they are disposable. A Ciss system with white ink never works out long term either, not without a way to shake the white ink effectively and daily. If you want “ high and mighty” order an Audley kit from DTGsuperstore or China directly. At least those are worth replacing parts on. Good luck!
  8. I trialed kothari once- but I had no idea what I was doing and got hit with orders so I didn’t mess with it much. Since the trial takes a dongle unfortunately I’ll probably never try it again. Thanks for your input! i genuinely think knowing all the rip options, actual print times and quality would be awesome.
  9. I agree, this is just one of a few I printed. I can test print this file as well though . the different rips also process image quality differently, even if it is a high quality file. This one would definitely show how bad EKprint and acrorip are with greens.
  10. Now these aren’t the best photos or comparisons, but one image I tested. The image wasn’t modified in any way, which is why you see white pixels around the image. this is Acro:
  11. By the way, these print times are based on an Epson P800 DTF printer, Using DTFsuperstore inks, film, and powder. I also made a mistake, Acro is twice as fast as Cadlink, not 4 times as fast for the same quality print.
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