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johnson4 last won the day on January 11

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About johnson4

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  • Birthday 09/03/1990

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  1. With Chipless firmware, no you don’t need chips.
  2. I just used the most ink I could without it running, and made sure I wasn’t printing with “ separated” ink. It settles in 24-48 hours of it has sat and needs flushed or it looks like that too. Some of the films I’ve heard are bad about the amount of ink they can hold, but if you bought it from Andy it should be fine. I avoided this ink settling with the p400 for low volume printing at the moment since it doesn’t have ink lines, while Im busy making the “auto” curing station. Personally I feel any transfer looks better on a ringspun shirt instead of heavy cotton though. Othe
  3. I made this out of steel, If I need to ground it to prevent static I’ll sand it down inside like yours. We’ll see how it works!
  4. If you buy a prebuilt printer it will come with an AIO, which has a header to control a UV light- given software adjustments.
  5. Interesting, wouldn’t have known. Thanks for following up!
  6. I still haven’t done mine this way yet, so unfortunately I don’t know.
  7. Do you have it set to roll mode in EKprint? I don’t see those settings screenshot.
  8. This might sounds stupid, is that round gutter? thanks, I never thought of using something rounded like that.
  9. I’ve never used white rip. Sorry. Did you try asking the person who gave you the demo.
  10. I see, makes total sense. Thank you for posting that. If you don’t mind me asking, what is that your using to apply the powder?
  11. You can flush and switch the ink carts, or use a program that supports individual channel settings like EKprint.
  12. Interestingly I’ve had the opposite effect with humidity. The more humidity, the more clumping I get over time. The spec sheets for the powder generally says to keep it sealed as it makes it clump, which I do experience in a high humidity environment. I have no idea if that is affected short term in its use though. the static makes sense, which is probably why it sticks to the sheet without ink sometimes. I’ll have to try that if I find it an issue, thanks.
  13. I think so too. You see reports of waiting 10-15 minutes to powder after printing, a heated plate as it comes out, depending on the temp, would probably fix that issue. If your sealing the only escape for evaporation, it’s going to form bubbles, but does that actually adversely affect the transfer quality?
  14. Random note in the bubbles. If your curing from the backside( powder side) your sealing the print before the ink is completely dry. If you melt the powder and create that barrier/seal, and the ink still needs to evaporate some, it’s probably where the small bubbles come from. probably why some of these big machines cure from the ink up( front of film/from the bottom) instead of solely on the backside. so for example, if you had a heat press with both heated platens or was able to cure from the bottom, it would probably stop. Personally, with a flash dryer on a spinning ba
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