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NebraskaTrevor

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NebraskaTrevor last won the day on September 4 2019

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  1. If you are going to work on converting one of these printers the very first thing you should do is download the full factory service manual which can be found by using the Google machine. I strongly suggest printing all 400 or so pages of it. It will be worth it's weight in ink as you work thru your conversion....which is not simple by any means. Sadly my printer has been sitting over 6 months unused I just haven't found the uses for it that I thought I would. If I could recapture even half of the time and money I dank into it I surely would...but it was a fun project.
  2. Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong. I will try to hit a few highpoints. The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid. Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials. That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible with it so that the parts are not destroyed. Y
  3. Agreed/ My led is only about 3/4" wide although even then it just barely misses the frame. I do wish my printer was as finished in appearance of the one shown in the video. It is far from it, mostly all open. I saved all of the epson plastic but I haven't attempted to attach any of it yet.
  4. I am sorry but I have no idea how the ink system on the 1390 is designed. I doubt that the viscosity of the ink is your problem, and likely that aspect is completely beyond your control. It is what it is and there is no reasonable way to change it. I can imagine that you will need to figure the correct balance for your system so that ink will flow to the heads, but not run out of them when they are just sitting. Fo me that required me to find the perfect height at which to place my ink tanks, but you will need to do some experimenting. Good luck!
  5. Adam, it is not that I wont but given the diffirences in machines, fixtures and tooling it is really silly tobsharebg code. Unless you happen to have the exact same machine as me it would basically be useless! Thanks for thw interest.
  6. I had to replace everything except for the print head itself and the distribution manifold right above it. Everything else was ruined by the ink.
  7. Hello, the code is quite easy, just use one of the all in one boards from the forum sponsor and hook everything up as shown and the included code will work quite nicely. The aio board made that part of the conversion way easier than I could have imagined, it was actually the easiest part of the project. Good luck with your project!
  8. Excellent Idea, when I built mine I got it working and sorted out all of the various mechanical and electrical problems first while it had the stock ink in it. Then I converted from the aqueous to the UV ink. I blindly assumed that it would be no big deal to convert the ink, little did I know at the time that most of the major challenges of the project would lie in the ink conversion Good luck and let us know when you start a build thread!
  9. So far no problems with the capping station...knock on wood, but as i mentioned I do all of my purging and cleaning manually with gravity so very little ink makes it into the capping station/ waste ink tank. Given more time I may find additional problems pop up there as well! It looks like your 7600 is much better supported and the fact that you can buy those cartridges will be a huge plus and save a ton of effort. the bulk tanks pictured also look very promising, and I like that each tank has a stirring motor, it is essential for white, and nice for the colors. Be sure to start a thread
  10. I am making a broad assumption that the ink system on the 7600 operates basically the same as the system on the 3800/3880 however that may not be a safe assumption so you will need to do some reading. Here are the problems I am guessing you will face. Even if you make the needles out of Aluminum the rubber seals on the end of the mylar ink bags that seal around the needle get attacked by the ink, therefore you will still have pressurized ink squirting out of the cartridges in a short amount of time. in my opinion the stock cartridges with their pressurized bladders will not be usable at all
  11. Hello David, glad to hear the thread could be of some benefit. The 7600 should make a beast of a printer! I had one once, they are huge even in stock form. I looked at the pics you attached and although the ink system parts you show are not identical to the 3800 they look like close cousins. Now for what you dont want to hear. I was not able to use a single part of the Epson ink system besides the print head and the manifold that sets on top of it. Everything else had to be replaced because it was destroyed within minutes, hours, or days. The ink cartridges and needles were my first ind
  12. I got white ink plumbed in today and did some test prints. Definately a whole different animal that will require lots of testing. After a few hours of testing and tweaking rip settings I got to this point. The top one is done in 2 passes, and the one on the bottom was done in one pass with white and color in a single pass. It looks 95 pct as good in 50 pct of the time so it is probably the way to go. I still need to make several adjustments. I also found out that the white ink tends to form a misty fog when sprayed, clearly this is no good at all, and does further emphasize the need for
  13. More play...errrr ,experimenting today with settings in the top software. I worked on some plastic business cards to see how resolutions and ink levels affected the print, and the print time. Interesting, they sure do look nice in person.
  14. More playing around today. I printed on some stainless, some mdf , and some tightly woven but stretchy fabric. All three turned out great. I was especially impressed with the fabric sample it looks amazing. I did some reading about uv printing on shirts. It turns out that it is crucial to ensure a complete cure because if it isn't fully cured some of the components of the ink can prove to be significant skin irritants. After getting some of the ink on my hands I can attest to that. My light seems to do an excellent job of curing the ink, but laying it out in the sun for a while after it
  15. I was at home depot looking for something white and cheap to print on.....4x4 ceramic tiles for 16 cents each. Jackpot! I printed my logo on one, it is amazing in person, very happy.
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