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reptilesink

PRO OpenDTG'er
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Everything posted by reptilesink

  1. You will need to use the icc specific for the ink and printer to get totally accurate colours. Also try adjusting the outputs in acrorip such as contrast, brightness, ink % etc.
  2. 4x 10w LED with a cooling fan in the housing.
  3. Yes the code works on R3000 without having to alter anything. I use it myself on the same model. Yes it needs to complete the startup process before turning the printer on or it will give an error.
  4. These easily fit without any cutting. 4x 10w LED. 120 degree beam pattern and cures full print area.
  5. Ideally a constant current power supply. You will need to know the specifications of the led's.
  6. With 40w of led which typically have a beam pattern of 120 degree it will cure all the platen area.
  7. Pulse width modulation purely acts as a dimmer control depending on the speed of the modulation. It still allows them to be over driven. Fixed current will remove that possibility. I manufacture multi channel pwm controllers.
  8. For those led I would advise using a fixed current power supply so they are not over driven. Also they burn out very quickly if over heated. I would have a much more substantial heat sink in direct contact with them as well as the fan.
  9. The led unit is very thin so doesn't take up much space.
  10. As said adjust the height of your inks. Usually they should be about level with the print head which allows ink to be pulled I by the printer but not siphon out by gravity.
  11. In that one there is a heat sink and fan with an external dimmer control. Other versions of it have liquid cooling. Also a switching transistor can be used to connect to an arduino and use pwm dimming.
  12. Thats the led's fitted in a cooling housing mounted to the side of the print head.
  13. Yes on the right where the head starts from. The light needs to turn off before it goes over there so that it doesn't cure the ink in the capping station. They need to go just above the height of the head.
  14. You just need some form of switch to turn it off when over the capping station. This could be a simple proximity switch.
  15. If you simply want it on when the print head is moving and off when in the capping station you only need to add to the code a very basic few lines to define the pin for the switch and for the output pin to the mosfet then just to say if the switch pin is high mosfet pin high or if low mosfet pin low. I would put it in the printing section of the code and also add a part for if the platen is ejected mosfet pin low so it's not on during head cleaning etc. The only tricky part if using the aio board is finding where and how to connect the wires to the board. Andy could hopefully say if there are any pins available on the board for the connections as I don't have one to look at.
  16. Depending on the current of the led's you are using you will probably need to have the switch operate a relay. Another way is to connect the switch to an arduino and control the led with a mosfet which is simple to do at low cost and you could even add a time delay before it turns off of a few seconds so it can cure the last bit of printing.
  17. The easiest way is have a microswitch mounted so the light comes on when the print head moves from the capping station.
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