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  1. 4 points
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  3. 3 points

    Version 1.0.0

    927 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    51 downloads

    Works really well, I flipped mine so the shaft was shorter, I used an extra "metal" screw from the build in the existing hole. Download here or from the link below, I did not make this- just sharing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3784696/files
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong. I will try to hit a few highpoints. The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid. Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials. That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible with it so that the parts are not destroyed. You speak of teflon and although I have no personal experience with it I have no doubt it will likely work. Personally I would not use teflon due to its very weak mechanical properties. I can tell you for certain after my own experience and after seeking some technical help from my ink supplier that the following materials are suitable for direct contact with the inks. Delrin(acetal) Aluminum, stainless steel, brass and for the tubing LDPE. The stock Dx5 print head has been completely unaffected by the ink after well over a year. Myn ink tanks are milled out of solid blocks of Delrin and they have had ink sitting in them for a long time with zero problems. I have been using the stock capping station with no problems as well. I did have to replace the waste ink tank once as it was becoming quite 'Soft" from the ink and I did not want it to spill its guts all over the workbench again. For the UV light I used an adjustable constant current power supply so that I can carefully limit the voltage and current going to the LED. I am also underdriving it by about 1/3 below stated output to hopefully conserve its lifespan since it wasn't cheap by any means. For water cooling I am using a closed loop PC cooling fan/Pump/radiator connected with some clear vinyl tubing. CMYK Uv inks for all their troubles do have one wonderful property. They do not quickly dry out, clog, or otherwise cause many circulation problems as long as you keep them out of the light. I was told by my supplier that the ink will actually last longer when exposed to oxygen. The white ink is a whole other story. It is so full of suspended solids that it is extremely prone to settling, seperating, and clogging. White ink is a major pain in the butt, but if you need it you need it. If you can live without it your life will surely be easier. Good luck in your endeavours!!!
  8. 2 points

    Version 20.0.0

    1,026 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
  9. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    653 downloads

    This .dxf CAD file has all of the plates used in building the OpenDTG basic base kit and platen. Requires metal bending to use as is. The center rail for this design is the 1000mm C-Beam from OpenBuildspartstore.com We use aluminum but plastic or wood may work.
  10. 1 point
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32850217541.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.29203c00mvHClW&mp=1
  11. 1 point
    esse modulo de led não presta. e projeto meu... baixa qualidade.
  12. 1 point
    395nm is most universal for most available inks
  13. 1 point
    The main thing is to limit the current to 1200ma or less. If you overdrive them it will damage them. Also you should have a larger heatsink than what you are using, heat is the biggest killer of led's.
  14. 1 point
    Hmm I set one of these 12v 1A and it was more than enough to cure ink I used so go down as low you can ...Save your printhead life ...
  15. 1 point
    I've followed UV build threads that had success with Aomya inks and the folks that sell it claim that it won't cause damage to stock epson parts - but one never knows until it's sitting in the machine. I'll post with updates.
  16. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0

    1,226 downloads

    This is a light / core version of our full OpenDTG code that is available to paid members. Fully functional but does not have the following features of the paid version: Support for physical buttons, it uses the desktop app only No automatic 2 pass No code to allow full removal of the ASF assembly Requirements: OpenDTG Desktop App needed to control platen Encoder and bounce2 libraries installed in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down of PE signal to protect the Epson mainboard. ASF assembly must be left intact. 30 Tooth Pulley for the belt drive
  17. 1 point
    Yes they should be ok, you will need a heatsink to mount the leds to and a suitable power supply for them.
  18. 1 point
    Here is the epson 1400 I gave my son. He done one of my other printers on a upgrade. And he asked is he could upgrade this old thing I built acouple years ago as a friction drive .... Things he done . New base. Mkr bare bones board Nema 23 stepper 800mm rail for drive. He added 3 more top fans. (Not for cooling for venting of the uv ink fumes) Reworked top cover to hide all wiring.. He getting good at making stuff in the fly with the help of dad.. He learning the coading. Really well as well as leading how to use my 3d programs to make part in a stl format for either one of my 3d printers or my 100w co2 laser.. I dont trust him to run my cnc plasma table or my cnc mill yet . As in the pics he done some 3d printed parts for the fan covers and a switch box. He also printed the end stop holder and flag for it . he working on a cable chain to hold the damper hoses and the uv /fan wires. (He wanting to add water cooling to it later down the road he saving up for uv led and water cooling for it.. )
  19. 1 point
    Great job, I like the design.
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  21. 1 point
    hello friend, what tutorial did you use to disarm the L1800? did you occupy the same one that is here in the forum? i was seeing the option to buy a p600 but where i live there is no and the best option is the l1800. i already have the open dtg basic kit on its way and i want to start disarming the printer while the basic kit arrives. Please, if you can help me with that.
  22. 1 point
    Hi, i really like the openDTG forum and it was helping me a lot when building up my UV light printer. Unfortunately it is quite difficult to find user recommendations and experiences on UV light based printers because 95% of all the threads are for DTG. Seperate section only for UV light printing would help a lot to find all the great topics easily in one section. Just a suggestion from my side. Thanks Chris
  23. 1 point
    Inks are one thing that it doesn't pay to go too cheap.
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    6 ink heads are probably more cost effective you can get a replacement head for about 1/10th of the price of the 8 ink heads and you do have to replace a few heads, UV light and temp have a lot to do with how long a head lasts I was replacing heads every few weeks until I figured out the light was reflecting off the tray back onto the print head and was slowly curing the ink in the head another one is temp I cant print below 16 deg c as the ink will not flow properly through the head if the heads are capped properly you can leave them for a couple of weeks with no problems
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  29. 1 point
    I was at home depot looking for something white and cheap to print on.....4x4 ceramic tiles for 16 cents each. Jackpot! I printed my logo on one, it is amazing in person, very happy.
  30. 1 point
    More testing, more success. Some second surface printingbwherebthebprint is on the back side of polycarbonate since I don't have the white ink hooked up I sprayed the back side of the print with white rc car polycarbonate paint and it worked so well that it may prove to be a better and easier way to get a white background behind a second surface. I forgot to mirror the flag graphic, obviously I need to do that for things printed on the back of something.
  31. 1 point
    Some pics, mostly on white polycarbonate.
  32. 1 point
    Andy, I do have a part in mind to make that is right at 16 inches wide, hence the need for the big printer and the trip into somewhat uncharted waters. I finally had some success today, I only had time to get black and magenta working. Tomorrow I will work on cyan and yellow. Then white after that. It looks very promising. Lots to finalize but I am cautiously optimistic. I did read over several epson patents last night and today to give me a better idea of how the print head actually functions. If it continues to work and be repeatable in the coming days then I will share all of the details right here to potentially help the next person along. I am afraid to get too excited, but there does seem to be a light at the end of the tunnel......I just hope it isn't a train!
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