Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2020 in all areas

  1. 1. about the same, DTF uses much less ink( about 1/3rd for me, plus the ink is almost half the cost of DTG ink at the moment) no pre-treatment. But to offset that, your spending money now on film and powder. depending on your print size and film cost, DTF may be a bit more expensive. Time wise, they take about the same amount of time. 2. about the same, you really only shake the cartridges, print with it, and clean the capping station/print-head with a foam swab either way. 3. DTG offers next to no hand feel, DTF can be thin or thick, soft or plastic-y depending on how you press it
    4 points
  2. Version 20.0.0

    1,142 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
    4 points
  3. I figured I'd make a post since this is one of the most popular questions right now. The list of printers that are good for DTF is basically the same as for DIY DTG: https://www.opendtg.com/topic/3-which-printers-to-use-for-diy-dtg/ You need an Epson printer with 6-8 colors / ink channels so you can print CMYK + White inks, available refillable cartridges, and compatible RIP software. The most popular models are going to be the best to use unless you are fine with figuring things out on your own. L1800 (1430 w/ bulk ink) is used a lot because it's cheap and avail
    3 points
  4. I use EKprint because it’s simple, quick and efficient. Acro rip, I don’t like. I wasted a couple months using it and just outright hating my investments. Some people like it and get good results, I never did. The color settings were hard to get right, it took forever to process the image when printing, among other limited settings and the fact they are all pirated. I Went with EKprint, and can run 4 printers at the same time, make my own platen sizes. For me anyway, EKprint was super easy to understand, has minimal adjustments to get a decent print all around and I can print on the fly very
    3 points
  5. I feel this post is a giant advertisement for yourself, and I disagree with most of your statements. I have screen printed for 6+ years, used DTG for around 3 years and DTF for about 6 months. Your figures are incorrect and an opinion of yourself. For the most part, I have experience that several things you have said are NOT TRUE. all you are doing is trying to convince others of your “marketing” convictions to try and sway opinions by throwing in a few well known facts, mixed with lies. anyone reading this post, again this is one persons opinion(who mind you is looking
    2 points
  6. Toner is plastic, plastic cracks. I used a DIY white toner printer ( because I’m not spending that kind of cash on one). The transfers are like you would imagine- and they crack after a few washes, and it’s expensive. They have cheap not white laser transfers as well, but it all ended up the same way. Cracking, and inability to stretch with the garment. When you first make it, it looks good. But then wear it, it’s uncomfortable, and just overall feels annoying. After you wash it you start to feel like you got ripped off. DTF is ink, flexible, soft, but in very large patches can also
    2 points
  7. For people on a budget and looking for used machine on their local marketplaces I would add the following models that are supported in widely available acrorip for 1 pass Printing. Up to13x19 Faster R3000 R2400 R2000 R2880 R1900 (have to double check and update) Up to 13x19 slower two channels for white so slower compared to above mentioned. r1390 r1400 Up to 17inch widht R3880 P800 (one time chips for the refill cartridges) If you get one of these make sure you get yoourself at least 2 sets of cartridges. One to clean the system from original ink. Ano
    2 points
  8. Yes, You need a RIP program. EKprint is $350, Acrorip is like $15 on ebay. Kothari is $1,000. Other programs are available, I do not recommend acrorip if you plan to take it seriously. Basically, You get what you put into it.
    2 points
  9. I’m still working on the ink settings in EK. I only put two white ink in the P800 for the time being. one thing to note, at least from my speculation, both the transfer film and the powder need to be in a sealed container, kept away from high humidity. aside from that, I love the feel of the prints, and the resolution is nice too. I think the biggest things with this, would be ink settings, and dealing with the powder. The final print isn’t glossy like you would imagine.
    2 points
  10. Version 1.0.0

    1,548 downloads

    This is a light / core version of our full OpenDTG code that is available to paid members. Fully functional but does not have the following features of the paid version: Support for physical buttons, it uses the desktop app only No automatic 2 pass No code to allow full removal of the ASF assembly Requirements: OpenDTG Desktop App needed to control platen Encoder and bounce2 libraries installed in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down of PE signal to protect the Epson mainboard. ASF assembly must be left intact. 30 Tooth Pulley for the belt dr
    2 points
  11. I'll sell you some sample size of the stuff if you want. Also, I have that demo dongle. Shoot me an email. I've been using Kothari for the DTF because it has the option to print the color before the white. (so does EK). I can share what I have so far for the Kothari environment Pricing is going to be: $169 - Ink set 250ml each CMYK and 500ml White ( I could do smaller quantity) $25 - per pound on the powder glue $1.25 - per 12.5x18 sheet. (not precision cut)
    2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. Version 1.0.0

    715 downloads

    This .dxf CAD file has all of the plates used in building the OpenDTG basic base kit and platen. Requires metal bending to use as is. The center rail for this design is the 1000mm C-Beam from OpenBuildspartstore.com We use aluminum but plastic or wood may work.
    2 points
  14. Let me shed some light, I sell DTG and DTF printers MOST IMPORTANT, and I'll discuss this later: POLYESTER cannot be done on DTG effectively, with DTF, yes! 1. Cost per print / I have strong knowledge of Brother and Kornit. Kornit printers use approx 65 cents to $1.25 depending on the model of printer; ALL other printers, Brother, Epson, et al, their cost per print is anywhere 2-5x more in ink and pretreatment DTF, the cost per square meter (approx 12 shirt fronts) is LESS THAN $3 - or approx 33 cents per shirt!!! 2. Maintenance: all use water based inks, so you have to clean
    1 point
  15. If your following the video just do what they did. you really only need to remove the rollers, usually takes less than 3-5 minutes just by popping them off with no dissembling. If you want to remove the entire mechanism that works too. You can remove everything on the front related to the paper, including the metal bracket the roller wheels were on, paper tray, and front media loading.
    1 point
  16. I have one head on a p600 goin over two years old with over 8,000 prints on it, still works fine. on the other hand, the 6 channel (90 nozzle) heads on the 1430 clogged constantly, took forever, and overall went in the trash a few hundred prints later. being new, you’ll probably trash some heads unless you from the gate, follow a good cleaning procedure. Wet capping is a For sure way to prevent any head loss due to clogging, that mixed with shaking your ink and proper capping station cleaning. Let the machine sit for days at a time constantly? It’s going to affect your prin
    1 point
  17. Daily maintaince prevents immedietly clogging, but still it will build up in head in long run. As this aspect, l1800 will be less usable with same maintaince. So it is really a question of how many prints you need per day and what is your budget. If you need over 50 prints per day, it is better to go for 8 channel printheads. L1800 is 3 times slower. If you just want to try this method and don't know where it leads(as hobby) you can start with even a L805. If A3 size is necessary then L1800.
    1 point
  18. Yea, that’s how everything is, isn’t it? Just some variable in the timing. Without proper maintenance, usage, high quality materials and experience your going to encounter these issues. Could be a $200 machine or a $40,000 machine, they all suffer from user error and mechanical issues all the same. Good luck!
    1 point
  19. Well, I knew I wouldn’t use it because this is a busy time for our business and I don’t implement things I’m not used to, usually. I did however intentionally not clean it, shake, etc for that time period. Just to understand it’s limits in that aspect. I tried cmyk only prints, and it does stick to it, but there is one issue there. When you use CMYK only, you need more ink down, so the powder can stick to it. In doing so, it will make the colors darker with more ink, and as well possibly blend( because there is a VERY fine line between too much ink, and enough to get it to get the po
    1 point
  20. Turns out really well. Printed using a p400, heavy cotton sweatshirt, White ink only DTF. An otherwise unprintable( raised seam on the print area) garment due to its design with My DTG setup. I hadn’t used, shaken, cleaned or maintained the printer in 3 weeks. Shook the carts well, did two head cleans and this came out. Unimaginable with DTG due to clogging/drying out.
    1 point
  21. Thanks so much! You’ve help a lot
    1 point
  22. Hover curing isn’t good enough. The powder needs to melt. Once it’s melted it’s also dry, giving the print a solid backing so it doesn’t do that. heat gun, flash dryer, belt dryer, etc. your heat press isn’t going to get hot enough, unless you want to hover press it for several minutes or more. It has to hit over 320 degrees or so, dry the ink, then melt the powder. A 1500 degree heat gun takes at least 30 seconds to do the whole print.
    1 point
  23. True, just press the ink reset button.
    1 point
  24. What resolution are you printing, and have you performed a nozzle check?
    1 point
  25. The paper tray plays an important role for the DTF to keep the film in a horizontal position, preventing the film from bending, ink spreading. When the film ends, it goes to an additional pushing roller, but there is nothing to press the film against the ox, since we removed these wheels and the film remains under gravity on the ox. At this moment, as the film is not fixed with anything, anything can happen, film shift, printing defects, or even the roller will not be able to push it further along the printing process. I ran into this situation in sublimation printing. Sublimation papers have
    1 point
  26. If you want, yes. I don't, I use Distilled water with a bit of cleaner in it, like 10-20 percent cleaner. It does have a function, just not one that is useful. It's an ink line that runs down to the print-head as Uhim pointed out. so during an ink charge, ( which you'll do to load the ink, and periodically when you have severe clogging or flushing) it will use that ink line, and anytime you accidentally use matte black in the printer driver or whatever it will push whatever it is in that channel through the print-head, mixing with whatever is in there from the PK line( white ink).
    1 point
  27. That is unfortunate, I did send a response to your PM, in case it does work. I have at times, Received inaccurate information from the Eukon team before, it may or may not be the case. worth a shot though. If not, that is one of the main reasons I recommend the highly supported printers so things like this don't pop up.
    1 point
  28. You could always do like I did, And add more printers, To achieve more Profit per hour as well. I don't see the hassle of buying something like that being beneficial, but it could be. I took the easy route, and just used more P600's, The added cost is trivial compared to the profit they make you, if you really need 50 a day. Cut your time in half, to 3 hours and 15 minutes ( from your original time alllowance) with two printers, and you still make the same money, but now at $230 an hour, just for investing in TWO printers instead of one. Your not only limited to one printer, Especially for th
    1 point
  29. I pushed the front Manuel feed tray so it would pop out easier. Then you pop rollers off on one side, let the front tray open(lift) and it falls out. I used a flathead screwdriver on one, and my hands on the others. You just need to slip the black bracket off the metal bracket on the side facing the back of the printer.
    1 point
  30. Thanks! To flush the ink in R3000 i need refillable cartridge with flushing solution? Have any idea what solution is?
    1 point
  31. The p800 is an older model, right there with the P600 and the newer but still discontinued( I think) P400. The main issue is someone making the printer usable for anything other than OEM ink. You need a way to use aftermarket inks. Epson locks their printers to their ink cartridges, especially these newer models. After a reliable chipless solution comes out, OR ARC ( Auto reset chips) come out for that specific printer model, then it's practically useless to use. You would have to buy a new OEM epson ink cartridge to harvest only the ink chip from to use aftermarket inks. Sam
    1 point
  32. https://store.opendtg.com/collections/dtf we will have more selection of film sizes this week
    1 point
  33. There is a sensor under printhead. Tape it with black electric tape if There is not a tape.
    1 point
  34. With Kothari it's not much less than DTG. I'd start with your DTG settings and check the box to print color first. Then adjust from there
    1 point
  35. Hopefully end of this week or so. Depends on if it gets hung up in customs on the way in
    1 point
  36. It's probably the same as any other film going through it, I know the P800 has an option to print thicker materials so it won't leave the pizza roller marks. More than likely, This is what you will have to remove, as well as find a way to get in there and clean the printhead/capping station.
    1 point
  37. Here is a video how to modify the l1800
    1 point
  38. I’ve only done 1 wash so far and it’s fine. A trusted customer of mine has been using the supplies I have for a couple months with good results. Yes we will be selling the DTF supplies, I already have some inventory and will list it in the online store after a bit more testing. DTF Ink prices will match our DTG ink prices. I see DTF as another decorating option that will work for some people and not others.
    1 point
  39. You would need to find out the spec of the unit for if it needs an no or nc sensor and what voltage it operates with. I would expect it to be using dc.
    1 point
  40. I'm not sure, If you printed on a release paper I don't see why not. You put the powder on while the ink is wet, so the powder only sticks to the design, shake the rest off and " dry" the ink so the polymer sticks to the ink. After that, when you heat press it again, your melting the polymer and it mends with the fabric- creating a transfer. However, anytime this polymer gets heated, like in a dryer, it is possible for it to heat up to its melting point again and peel off, Unlike inks printed directly onto the fabric, which need its "carrier" or " plasticizer" to liquify it. The polymer
    1 point
  41. use esses. todos com medidas de 2x3mm https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/square-connector-DX7-UV-damper-big_62018521165.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.2d0a52011kfwpC https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/8-lines-UV-solvent-printer-ink_60774495869.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.210d4b3ftadfyJ
    1 point
  42. Version 1.0.0

    155 downloads

    Epson P600 Adjustment Program
    1 point
  43. esse modulo de led não presta. e projeto meu... baixa qualidade.
    1 point
  44. 395nm is most universal for most available inks
    1 point
  45. Hmm I set one of these 12v 1A and it was more than enough to cure ink I used so go down as low you can ...Save your printhead life ...
    1 point
  46. I've followed UV build threads that had success with Aomya inks and the folks that sell it claim that it won't cause damage to stock epson parts - but one never knows until it's sitting in the machine. I'll post with updates.
    1 point
  47. Version 1.0.0

    1,031 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
    1 point
  48. Version 1.0.0

    613 downloads

    p-800, 1390-1400-1410, r1900, r1800-r2400, 3800, r3000
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...