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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points

    Version 20.0.0


    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
  2. 4 points
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  4. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0


    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
  5. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0


    This .dxf CAD file has all of the plates used in building the OpenDTG basic base kit and platen. Requires metal bending to use as is. The center rail for this design is the 1000mm C-Beam from OpenBuildspartstore.com We use aluminum but plastic or wood may work.
  6. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0


    This is a light / core version of our full OpenDTG code that is available to paid members. Fully functional but does not have the following features of the paid version: Support for physical buttons, it uses the desktop app only No automatic 2 pass No code to allow full removal of the ASF assembly Requirements: OpenDTG Desktop App needed to control platen Encoder and bounce2 libraries installed in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down of PE signal to protect the Epson mainboard. ASF assembly must be left intact. 30 Tooth Pulley for the belt drive
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0


    Works really well, I flipped mine so the shaft was shorter, I used an extra "metal" screw from the build in the existing hole. Download here or from the link below, I did not make this- just sharing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3784696/files
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong. I will try to hit a few highpoints. The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid. Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials. That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible with it so that the parts are not destroyed. You speak of teflon and although I have no personal experience with it I have no doubt it will likely work. Personally I would not use teflon due to its very weak mechanical properties. I can tell you for certain after my own experience and after seeking some technical help from my ink supplier that the following materials are suitable for direct contact with the inks. Delrin(acetal) Aluminum, stainless steel, brass and for the tubing LDPE. The stock Dx5 print head has been completely unaffected by the ink after well over a year. Myn ink tanks are milled out of solid blocks of Delrin and they have had ink sitting in them for a long time with zero problems. I have been using the stock capping station with no problems as well. I did have to replace the waste ink tank once as it was becoming quite 'Soft" from the ink and I did not want it to spill its guts all over the workbench again. For the UV light I used an adjustable constant current power supply so that I can carefully limit the voltage and current going to the LED. I am also underdriving it by about 1/3 below stated output to hopefully conserve its lifespan since it wasn't cheap by any means. For water cooling I am using a closed loop PC cooling fan/Pump/radiator connected with some clear vinyl tubing. CMYK Uv inks for all their troubles do have one wonderful property. They do not quickly dry out, clog, or otherwise cause many circulation problems as long as you keep them out of the light. I was told by my supplier that the ink will actually last longer when exposed to oxygen. The white ink is a whole other story. It is so full of suspended solids that it is extremely prone to settling, seperating, and clogging. White ink is a major pain in the butt, but if you need it you need it. If you can live without it your life will surely be easier. Good luck in your endeavours!!!
  11. 2 points
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  13. 2 points
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    esse modulo de led não presta. e projeto meu... baixa qualidade.
  16. 1 point
    395nm is most universal for most available inks
  17. 1 point
    The main thing is to limit the current to 1200ma or less. If you overdrive them it will damage them. Also you should have a larger heatsink than what you are using, heat is the biggest killer of led's.
  18. 1 point
    Hmm I set one of these 12v 1A and it was more than enough to cure ink I used so go down as low you can ...Save your printhead life ...
  19. 1 point
    Yes they should be ok, you will need a heatsink to mount the leds to and a suitable power supply for them.
  20. 1 point
    Here is the epson 1400 I gave my son. He done one of my other printers on a upgrade. And he asked is he could upgrade this old thing I built acouple years ago as a friction drive .... Things he done . New base. Mkr bare bones board Nema 23 stepper 800mm rail for drive. He added 3 more top fans. (Not for cooling for venting of the uv ink fumes) Reworked top cover to hide all wiring.. He getting good at making stuff in the fly with the help of dad.. He learning the coading. Really well as well as leading how to use my 3d programs to make part in a stl format for either one of my 3d printers or my 100w co2 laser.. I dont trust him to run my cnc plasma table or my cnc mill yet . As in the pics he done some 3d printed parts for the fan covers and a switch box. He also printed the end stop holder and flag for it . he working on a cable chain to hold the damper hoses and the uv /fan wires. (He wanting to add water cooling to it later down the road he saving up for uv led and water cooling for it.. )
  21. 1 point
    Great job, I like the design.
  22. 1 point
    Hi, i really like the openDTG forum and it was helping me a lot when building up my UV light printer. Unfortunately it is quite difficult to find user recommendations and experiences on UV light based printers because 95% of all the threads are for DTG. Seperate section only for UV light printing would help a lot to find all the great topics easily in one section. Just a suggestion from my side. Thanks Chris
  23. 1 point
    6 ink heads are probably more cost effective you can get a replacement head for about 1/10th of the price of the 8 ink heads and you do have to replace a few heads, UV light and temp have a lot to do with how long a head lasts I was replacing heads every few weeks until I figured out the light was reflecting off the tray back onto the print head and was slowly curing the ink in the head another one is temp I cant print below 16 deg c as the ink will not flow properly through the head if the heads are capped properly you can leave them for a couple of weeks with no problems
  24. 1 point
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  31. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0


    Release version 3/31/18 of WicReset Utilities. Install without an internet connection and disable auto updates before connecting to the internet to prevent it being auto-updated to the newest version. You still have to pay the $10 for waste pad reset and all that, Just an original released old version.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks all I have just tested it, it looks good. Thank you very much
  33. 1 point
    As said adjust the height of your inks. Usually they should be about level with the print head which allows ink to be pulled I by the printer but not siphon out by gravity.
  34. 1 point
    I am sorry but I have no idea how the ink system on the 1390 is designed. I doubt that the viscosity of the ink is your problem, and likely that aspect is completely beyond your control. It is what it is and there is no reasonable way to change it. I can imagine that you will need to figure the correct balance for your system so that ink will flow to the heads, but not run out of them when they are just sitting. Fo me that required me to find the perfect height at which to place my ink tanks, but you will need to do some experimenting. Good luck!
  35. 1 point

    Version 0.0.1


    At one time I tried to make a laser autofocus of the laser head, I didn’t have enough experience, there were several sketches in the archive, a good starting point. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gcmp6PnhtBxBmcYo6
  36. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0


  37. 1 point
    Opendtg P600 on RTP apparel
  38. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0


    Here are the files that UHIM donated from the AIO challenge. I haven't had the time to mess with it so I'm uploading and hoping members here can test and collaborate on it. This will allow using photoshop and the gutenprint plugin as RIP software for printing light and dark garments on a Windows PC Please discuss this topic: https://www.opendtg.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1060 Might be a little harder to learn than EK but it is the only option for Free RIP Software I HAVE NOT TESTED THESE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
  39. 1 point
    Here is a video showing the ink system.
  40. 1 point
    I am making a broad assumption that the ink system on the 7600 operates basically the same as the system on the 3800/3880 however that may not be a safe assumption so you will need to do some reading. Here are the problems I am guessing you will face. Even if you make the needles out of Aluminum the rubber seals on the end of the mylar ink bags that seal around the needle get attacked by the ink, therefore you will still have pressurized ink squirting out of the cartridges in a short amount of time. in my opinion the stock cartridges with their pressurized bladders will not be usable at all since the soft parts of the seals get attacked, esp by the white ink which is by far the most aggressive. Also the plastic "backplane" that is behind those needles and has very precise channels in it to get the ink the manifold where the hoses attach will also likely be attacked. Even if you overcome that problem the pressurized system will not work with the UV safe dampers....at least the 3 types I tried. If you try to pressurize or blow through a stock Epson damper you will find that it does not allow for free flow rather there is a series of 2 pressure balanced valves that only allow more fluid through when the pressure on the print head side has dropped and created suction. Think of the pressure as getting the ink reliably up to the damper, but the epson damper is a very complex machine in and of itself with multiple soft moving parts that carefully and accurately let just enough of that pressurized ink to pass through. Only after many hours of head scratching and frustration and lots of reading was I able to realize that without the complex epson dampers a pressurized system would be a no go. By contrast the Chinese UV dampers that are all over the internet do not have any valves or pressure checks in them, only a filter screen and their soft sides that allow them to absorb some pressure variations. There is nothing inside any of them (that I tried) which will serve to reduce the pressure provided by the Epson system and accurately meter ink into the print head manifold. I would love to see someone prove my wrong but I dont think that a pressurized delivery system can be pulled off with UV ink. The ink itself is just too "aggressive". A Nazdar application specialist did a nice job of explaining to me that although there are no solvents in UV ink there are several plasticizers and other components that cause it to aggressively attach itself to whatever it comes in contact with. This is of course a good thing as you want the ink to ultimately stick to whatever you applied it to, but it is also what makes the ink somewhat difficult to work with. Continued good luck with your project, I can assure you it is extremely frustrating at times, but at the same time very rewarding when you finally get it to work.
  41. 1 point
    Some pics, mostly on white polycarbonate.
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