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  1. Version 20.0.0

    1,142 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
    9 points
  2. Version 1.0.0

    715 downloads

    This .dxf CAD file has all of the plates used in building the OpenDTG basic base kit and platen. Requires metal bending to use as is. The center rail for this design is the 1000mm C-Beam from OpenBuildspartstore.com We use aluminum but plastic or wood may work.
    5 points
  3. 1. about the same, DTF uses much less ink( about 1/3rd for me, plus the ink is almost half the cost of DTG ink at the moment) no pre-treatment. But to offset that, your spending money now on film and powder. depending on your print size and film cost, DTF may be a bit more expensive. Time wise, they take about the same amount of time. 2. about the same, you really only shake the cartridges, print with it, and clean the capping station/print-head with a foam swab either way. 3. DTG offers next to no hand feel, DTF can be thin or thick, soft or plastic-y depending on how you press it
    4 points
  4. 4 points
  5. Version 1.0.0

    1,031 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
    4 points
  6. I figured I'd make a post since this is one of the most popular questions right now. The list of printers that are good for DTF is basically the same as for DIY DTG: https://www.opendtg.com/topic/3-which-printers-to-use-for-diy-dtg/ You need an Epson printer with 6-8 colors / ink channels so you can print CMYK + White inks, available refillable cartridges, and compatible RIP software. The most popular models are going to be the best to use unless you are fine with figuring things out on your own. L1800 (1430 w/ bulk ink) is used a lot because it's cheap and avail
    3 points
  7. I use EKprint because it’s simple, quick and efficient. Acro rip, I don’t like. I wasted a couple months using it and just outright hating my investments. Some people like it and get good results, I never did. The color settings were hard to get right, it took forever to process the image when printing, among other limited settings and the fact they are all pirated. I Went with EKprint, and can run 4 printers at the same time, make my own platen sizes. For me anyway, EKprint was super easy to understand, has minimal adjustments to get a decent print all around and I can print on the fly very
    3 points
  8. Version 1.0.0

    1,548 downloads

    This is a light / core version of our full OpenDTG code that is available to paid members. Fully functional but does not have the following features of the paid version: Support for physical buttons, it uses the desktop app only No automatic 2 pass No code to allow full removal of the ASF assembly Requirements: OpenDTG Desktop App needed to control platen Encoder and bounce2 libraries installed in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down of PE signal to protect the Epson mainboard. ASF assembly must be left intact. 30 Tooth Pulley for the belt dr
    3 points
  9. I feel this post is a giant advertisement for yourself, and I disagree with most of your statements. I have screen printed for 6+ years, used DTG for around 3 years and DTF for about 6 months. Your figures are incorrect and an opinion of yourself. For the most part, I have experience that several things you have said are NOT TRUE. all you are doing is trying to convince others of your “marketing” convictions to try and sway opinions by throwing in a few well known facts, mixed with lies. anyone reading this post, again this is one persons opinion(who mind you is looking
    2 points
  10. Toner is plastic, plastic cracks. I used a DIY white toner printer ( because I’m not spending that kind of cash on one). The transfers are like you would imagine- and they crack after a few washes, and it’s expensive. They have cheap not white laser transfers as well, but it all ended up the same way. Cracking, and inability to stretch with the garment. When you first make it, it looks good. But then wear it, it’s uncomfortable, and just overall feels annoying. After you wash it you start to feel like you got ripped off. DTF is ink, flexible, soft, but in very large patches can also
    2 points
  11. For people on a budget and looking for used machine on their local marketplaces I would add the following models that are supported in widely available acrorip for 1 pass Printing. Up to13x19 Faster R3000 R2400 R2000 R2880 R1900 (have to double check and update) Up to 13x19 slower two channels for white so slower compared to above mentioned. r1390 r1400 Up to 17inch widht R3880 P800 (one time chips for the refill cartridges) If you get one of these make sure you get yoourself at least 2 sets of cartridges. One to clean the system from original ink. Ano
    2 points
  12. Yes, You need a RIP program. EKprint is $350, Acrorip is like $15 on ebay. Kothari is $1,000. Other programs are available, I do not recommend acrorip if you plan to take it seriously. Basically, You get what you put into it.
    2 points
  13. I’m still working on the ink settings in EK. I only put two white ink in the P800 for the time being. one thing to note, at least from my speculation, both the transfer film and the powder need to be in a sealed container, kept away from high humidity. aside from that, I love the feel of the prints, and the resolution is nice too. I think the biggest things with this, would be ink settings, and dealing with the powder. The final print isn’t glossy like you would imagine.
    2 points
  14. I'll sell you some sample size of the stuff if you want. Also, I have that demo dongle. Shoot me an email. I've been using Kothari for the DTF because it has the option to print the color before the white. (so does EK). I can share what I have so far for the Kothari environment Pricing is going to be: $169 - Ink set 250ml each CMYK and 500ml White ( I could do smaller quantity) $25 - per pound on the powder glue $1.25 - per 12.5x18 sheet. (not precision cut)
    2 points
  15. Version 1.0.0

    69 downloads

    Works really well, I flipped mine so the shaft was shorter, I used an extra "metal" screw from the build in the existing hole. Download here or from the link below, I did not make this- just sharing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3784696/files
    2 points
  16. Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong. I will try to hit a few highpoints. The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid. Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials. That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible with it so that the parts are not destroyed. Y
    2 points
  17. 2 points
  18. I have one head on a p600 goin over two years old with over 8,000 prints on it, still works fine. on the other hand, the 6 channel (90 nozzle) heads on the 1430 clogged constantly, took forever, and overall went in the trash a few hundred prints later. being new, you’ll probably trash some heads unless you from the gate, follow a good cleaning procedure. Wet capping is a For sure way to prevent any head loss due to clogging, that mixed with shaking your ink and proper capping station cleaning. Let the machine sit for days at a time constantly? It’s going to affect your prin
    1 point
  19. Well, I knew I wouldn’t use it because this is a busy time for our business and I don’t implement things I’m not used to, usually. I did however intentionally not clean it, shake, etc for that time period. Just to understand it’s limits in that aspect. I tried cmyk only prints, and it does stick to it, but there is one issue there. When you use CMYK only, you need more ink down, so the powder can stick to it. In doing so, it will make the colors darker with more ink, and as well possibly blend( because there is a VERY fine line between too much ink, and enough to get it to get the po
    1 point
  20. Thanks so much! You’ve help a lot
    1 point
  21. I actually have a print that i didn't powder, and it's been over 2 weeks and it still isn't dry.. It was a concern of mine too, but isn't really anymore. I'm going with the p400 because CMYK+W all need shaken, they all settle to some degree. Using the p400 will make it super easy to shake, clean, maintain the printer with no waste at all. Easy to run a set of cleaning carts with it to clean the head. I noticed with the P800 if I didn't print often it settled pretty quickly, like DTG inks. With how little DTF uses, the 18ML carts on the P400 make the most sense. I printed over 30 with the
    1 point
  22. The paper tray plays an important role for the DTF to keep the film in a horizontal position, preventing the film from bending, ink spreading. When the film ends, it goes to an additional pushing roller, but there is nothing to press the film against the ox, since we removed these wheels and the film remains under gravity on the ox. At this moment, as the film is not fixed with anything, anything can happen, film shift, printing defects, or even the roller will not be able to push it further along the printing process. I ran into this situation in sublimation printing. Sublimation papers have
    1 point
  23. The first type I had didn’t do this, it was thicker. I recently received the thinner stuff and that’s when that happened to me. Roll is probably the way to go anyway, no waste at the end.
    1 point
  24. It should take A3 size around 3 minutes per pass for 1440x1440 for p600. Possibly bigger size printer's a bit slower.
    1 point
  25. You could always do like I did, And add more printers, To achieve more Profit per hour as well. I don't see the hassle of buying something like that being beneficial, but it could be. I took the easy route, and just used more P600's, The added cost is trivial compared to the profit they make you, if you really need 50 a day. Cut your time in half, to 3 hours and 15 minutes ( from your original time alllowance) with two printers, and you still make the same money, but now at $230 an hour, just for investing in TWO printers instead of one. Your not only limited to one printer, Especially for th
    1 point
  26. Any Epson that there is refillable cartridges available for that uses at least 6 ideally 8 or more carts and is supported by the rip software can be used.
    1 point
  27. Thanks! To flush the ink in R3000 i need refillable cartridge with flushing solution? Have any idea what solution is?
    1 point
  28. The p800 is an older model, right there with the P600 and the newer but still discontinued( I think) P400. The main issue is someone making the printer usable for anything other than OEM ink. You need a way to use aftermarket inks. Epson locks their printers to their ink cartridges, especially these newer models. After a reliable chipless solution comes out, OR ARC ( Auto reset chips) come out for that specific printer model, then it's practically useless to use. You would have to buy a new OEM epson ink cartridge to harvest only the ink chip from to use aftermarket inks. Sam
    1 point
  29. Hopefully end of this week or so. Depends on if it gets hung up in customs on the way in
    1 point
  30. It's probably the same as any other film going through it, I know the P800 has an option to print thicker materials so it won't leave the pizza roller marks. More than likely, This is what you will have to remove, as well as find a way to get in there and clean the printhead/capping station.
    1 point
  31. Here is the link. Don't thank!)) https://www.screenprinting.com/products/transal-premium-hot-peel-transfer-paper?variant=5214254268457
    1 point
  32. It's most likely the signal plug. Wire it to a limit switch or a proximity switch that the head is going to trigger.
    1 point
  33. It seems cool, I started out and still screen-print. I used to do transfers with the same powder, if it's the same polymer anyway. From the experience I have with it and customer feedback, it just doesn't compare to direct contact in terms of adhesion. ( plastisol transfers). Wash to wash, water based faded with the shirt fabric, usually creating a faded look as the shirt also fades(I love this). Plastisol ( directly printed) pretty much never deteriorates or changes but suffers a heavy hand and requires serious chemicals to clean. the transfers would all suffer peeling at some point, us
    1 point
  34. The main thing is to limit the current to 1200ma or less. If you overdrive them it will damage them. Also you should have a larger heatsink than what you are using, heat is the biggest killer of led's.
    1 point
  35. Yes they should be ok, you will need a heatsink to mount the leds to and a suitable power supply for them.
    1 point
  36. Here is the epson 1400 I gave my son. He done one of my other printers on a upgrade. And he asked is he could upgrade this old thing I built acouple years ago as a friction drive .... Things he done . New base. Mkr bare bones board Nema 23 stepper 800mm rail for drive. He added 3 more top fans. (Not for cooling for venting of the uv ink fumes) Reworked top cover to hide all wiring.. He getting good at making stuff in the fly with the help of dad.. He learning the coading. Really well as well as leading how to use my 3d programs to make par
    1 point
  37. hello friend, what tutorial did you use to disarm the L1800? did you occupy the same one that is here in the forum? i was seeing the option to buy a p600 but where i live there is no and the best option is the l1800. i already have the open dtg basic kit on its way and i want to start disarming the printer while the basic kit arrives. Please, if you can help me with that.
    1 point
  38. Agreed/ My led is only about 3/4" wide although even then it just barely misses the frame. I do wish my printer was as finished in appearance of the one shown in the video. It is far from it, mostly all open. I saved all of the epson plastic but I haven't attempted to attach any of it yet.
    1 point
  39. You just need some form of switch to turn it off when over the capping station. This could be a simple proximity switch.
    1 point
  40. Opendtg P600 on RTP apparel
    1 point
  41. Hello Scott, Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I have tried just about every version or combination of parts that I can think of and none of them work. Fortunately UV ink, or at least the Nazdar Uv ink that I am using actually lasts a bit longer with a head of air above it so that is in my favor. I have tried to have the air in the bottles pressurized, not pressurized, level with the print head, above the print head, and even below the print head. I have tried to use every iteration listed above with both the stock dampers as well as the aftermarket 'UV dampers" that I recently bought.
    1 point
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