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  1. Version 20.0.0

    1,078 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
    6 points
  2. 4 points
  3. Version 1.0.0

    971 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
    4 points
  4. Version 1.0.0

    682 downloads

    This .dxf CAD file has all of the plates used in building the OpenDTG basic base kit and platen. Requires metal bending to use as is. The center rail for this design is the 1000mm C-Beam from OpenBuildspartstore.com We use aluminum but plastic or wood may work.
    4 points
  5. Yes, You need a RIP program. EKprint is $350, Acrorip is like $15 on ebay. Kothari is $1,000. Other programs are available, I do not recommend acrorip if you plan to take it seriously. Basically, You get what you put into it.
    2 points
  6. I’m still working on the ink settings in EK. I only put two white ink in the P800 for the time being. one thing to note, at least from my speculation, both the transfer film and the powder need to be in a sealed container, kept away from high humidity. aside from that, I love the feel of the prints, and the resolution is nice too. I think the biggest things with this, would be ink settings, and dealing with the powder. The final print isn’t glossy like you would imagine.
    2 points
  7. Version 1.0.0

    1,354 downloads

    This is a light / core version of our full OpenDTG code that is available to paid members. Fully functional but does not have the following features of the paid version: Support for physical buttons, it uses the desktop app only No automatic 2 pass No code to allow full removal of the ASF assembly Requirements: OpenDTG Desktop App needed to control platen Encoder and bounce2 libraries installed in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down of PE signal to protect the Epson mainboard. ASF assembly must be left intact. 30 Tooth Pulley for the belt dr
    2 points
  8. I'll sell you some sample size of the stuff if you want. Also, I have that demo dongle. Shoot me an email. I've been using Kothari for the DTF because it has the option to print the color before the white. (so does EK). I can share what I have so far for the Kothari environment Pricing is going to be: $169 - Ink set 250ml each CMYK and 500ml White ( I could do smaller quantity) $25 - per pound on the powder glue $1.25 - per 12.5x18 sheet. (not precision cut)
    2 points
  9. Version 1.0.0

    58 downloads

    Works really well, I flipped mine so the shaft was shorter, I used an extra "metal" screw from the build in the existing hole. Download here or from the link below, I did not make this- just sharing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3784696/files
    2 points
  10. Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong. I will try to hit a few highpoints. The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid. Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials. That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible with it so that the parts are not destroyed. Y
    2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. For people on a budget and looking for used machine on their local marketplaces I would add the following models that are supported in widely available acrorip for 1 pass Printing. Up to13x19 Faster R3000 R2400 R2000 R2880 R1900 (have to double check and update) Up to 13x19 slower two channels for white so slower compared to above mentioned. r1390 r1400 Up to 17inch widht R3880 P800 (one time chips for the refill cartridges) If you get one of these make sure you get yoourself at least 2 sets of cartridges. One to clean the system from original ink. Ano
    1 point
  13. https://store.opendtg.com/collections/dtf we will have more selection of film sizes this week
    1 point
  14. Wow very interesting information, thanks for the research. I imagine the film that comes off with the ink will leave a much heavier, vinyl feel than the other.
    1 point
  15. Hot peel wouldn’t be possible, the polymer needs to cool to stick to the substrate. in my opinion, it’s softer and smoother than MY normal dtg prints with a white under base. It’s comparable to a heat pressed plastisol print ( not belt dried, those are a bit rough)
    1 point
  16. There is a sensor under printhead. Tape it with black electric tape if There is not a tape.
    1 point
  17. Yes just like the L1800 video from Hobby Print plus I added our DTG cover with the cut outs. I haven't tested storing for later. I'm sure there is a shelf life just like screen print transfers get old after a while
    1 point
  18. It's probably the same as any other film going through it, I know the P800 has an option to print thicker materials so it won't leave the pizza roller marks. More than likely, This is what you will have to remove, as well as find a way to get in there and clean the printhead/capping station.
    1 point
  19. The way I'm going to see it, at least so far, It's going to basically be a Printable Self Weeding vinyl ( I mean, not at all technically, but basically from a customer standpoint). If it sits on the fabric, it's going to have a hand, similar to plastisol, or vinyl I would imagine. I know I can make plastisol feel like water-based and almost non-existent, but not on the transfer side of things. being peeled from a Plastic sheet, like Andy said will probably leave it looking " glossy" or plastic like. I have used products that do the exact same thing but on a laser printer, which wou
    1 point
  20. I’ve only done 1 wash so far and it’s fine. A trusted customer of mine has been using the supplies I have for a couple months with good results. Yes we will be selling the DTF supplies, I already have some inventory and will list it in the online store after a bit more testing. DTF Ink prices will match our DTG ink prices. I see DTF as another decorating option that will work for some people and not others.
    1 point
  21. use esses. todos com medidas de 2x3mm https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/square-connector-DX7-UV-damper-big_62018521165.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.2d0a52011kfwpC https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/8-lines-UV-solvent-printer-ink_60774495869.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.210d4b3ftadfyJ
    1 point
  22. Version 1.0.0

    69 downloads

    Epson P600 Adjustment Program
    1 point
  23. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32850217541.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.29203c00mvHClW&mp=1
    1 point
  24. Hmm I set one of these 12v 1A and it was more than enough to cure ink I used so go down as low you can ...Save your printhead life ...
    1 point
  25. I've followed UV build threads that had success with Aomya inks and the folks that sell it claim that it won't cause damage to stock epson parts - but one never knows until it's sitting in the machine. I'll post with updates.
    1 point
  26. Here is the epson 1400 I gave my son. He done one of my other printers on a upgrade. And he asked is he could upgrade this old thing I built acouple years ago as a friction drive .... Things he done . New base. Mkr bare bones board Nema 23 stepper 800mm rail for drive. He added 3 more top fans. (Not for cooling for venting of the uv ink fumes) Reworked top cover to hide all wiring.. He getting good at making stuff in the fly with the help of dad.. He learning the coading. Really well as well as leading how to use my 3d programs to make par
    1 point
  27. Great job, I like the design.
    1 point
  28. Hi, i really like the openDTG forum and it was helping me a lot when building up my UV light printer. Unfortunately it is quite difficult to find user recommendations and experiences on UV light based printers because 95% of all the threads are for DTG. Seperate section only for UV light printing would help a lot to find all the great topics easily in one section. Just a suggestion from my side. Thanks Chris
    1 point
  29. Inks are one thing that it doesn't pay to go too cheap.
    1 point
  30. I am sorry but I have no idea how the ink system on the 1390 is designed. I doubt that the viscosity of the ink is your problem, and likely that aspect is completely beyond your control. It is what it is and there is no reasonable way to change it. I can imagine that you will need to figure the correct balance for your system so that ink will flow to the heads, but not run out of them when they are just sitting. Fo me that required me to find the perfect height at which to place my ink tanks, but you will need to do some experimenting. Good luck!
    1 point
  31. Version 1.0.0

    300 downloads

    SureColor-P600-exploded-diag
    1 point
  32. You just need some form of switch to turn it off when over the capping station. This could be a simple proximity switch.
    1 point
  33. Version 1.0.0

    557 downloads

    p-800, 1390-1400-1410, r1900, r1800-r2400, 3800, r3000
    1 point
  34. Opendtg P600 on RTP apparel
    1 point
  35. I was at home depot looking for something white and cheap to print on.....4x4 ceramic tiles for 16 cents each. Jackpot! I printed my logo on one, it is amazing in person, very happy.
    1 point
  36. More testing, more success. Some second surface printingbwherebthebprint is on the back side of polycarbonate since I don't have the white ink hooked up I sprayed the back side of the print with white rc car polycarbonate paint and it worked so well that it may prove to be a better and easier way to get a white background behind a second surface. I forgot to mirror the flag graphic, obviously I need to do that for things printed on the back of something.
    1 point
  37. Hello Scott, Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I have tried just about every version or combination of parts that I can think of and none of them work. Fortunately UV ink, or at least the Nazdar Uv ink that I am using actually lasts a bit longer with a head of air above it so that is in my favor. I have tried to have the air in the bottles pressurized, not pressurized, level with the print head, above the print head, and even below the print head. I have tried to use every iteration listed above with both the stock dampers as well as the aftermarket 'UV dampers" that I recently bought.
    1 point
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