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  1. I feel this post is a giant advertisement for yourself, and I disagree with most of your statements. I have screen printed for 6+ years, used DTG for around 3 years and DTF for about 6 months. Your figures are incorrect and an opinion of yourself. For the most part, I have experience that several things you have said are NOT TRUE. all you are doing is trying to convince others of your “marketing” convictions to try and sway opinions by throwing in a few well known facts, mixed with lies. anyone reading this post, again this is one persons opinion(who mind you is looking
    2 points
  2. Which printer is better for dtf. Considering the picoliter of the 3880 is 3.5 and that of r 2000 is 1.5 . Does the picoliter matter
    1 point
  3. Let me shed some light, I sell DTG and DTF printers MOST IMPORTANT, and I'll discuss this later: POLYESTER cannot be done on DTG effectively, with DTF, yes! 1. Cost per print / I have strong knowledge of Brother and Kornit. Kornit printers use approx 65 cents to $1.25 depending on the model of printer; ALL other printers, Brother, Epson, et al, their cost per print is anywhere 2-5x more in ink and pretreatment DTF, the cost per square meter (approx 12 shirt fronts) is LESS THAN $3 - or approx 33 cents per shirt!!! 2. Maintenance: all use water based inks, so you have to clean
    1 point
  4. Long time low temperature was the cause of the problem.
    1 point
  5. If your following the video just do what they did. you really only need to remove the rollers, usually takes less than 3-5 minutes just by popping them off with no dissembling. If you want to remove the entire mechanism that works too. You can remove everything on the front related to the paper, including the metal bracket the roller wheels were on, paper tray, and front media loading.
    1 point
  6. This is diffirent than DTG, both have uses. If your customer does not care about printout quality, health issues etc. DTF is way to go, because it is cheaper to startup. If you customer wants high end quality products DTG is way to go. In the end all other factors are irrevelent.
    1 point
  7. I also forgot to mention, every few months you’ll need to remove the head and flush the ink lines, if it has them. Settling will occur, no matter what. It just depends on you on how quickly it happens. I don’t recommend flushing the lines through the printhead, remove it and manually flush the lines, reattach and do one more ink charge- then reload your ink. I do this when I start to see it soft clog, which is always around 2-4 months, depending on how long it sits. Some people just replace the ink bay, that’s up to you. If it’s directly on the head( no dampers, or ink lines) then th
    1 point
  8. I have one head on a p600 goin over two years old with over 8,000 prints on it, still works fine. on the other hand, the 6 channel (90 nozzle) heads on the 1430 clogged constantly, took forever, and overall went in the trash a few hundred prints later. being new, you’ll probably trash some heads unless you from the gate, follow a good cleaning procedure. Wet capping is a For sure way to prevent any head loss due to clogging, that mixed with shaking your ink and proper capping station cleaning. Let the machine sit for days at a time constantly? It’s going to affect your prin
    1 point
  9. Daily maintaince prevents immedietly clogging, but still it will build up in head in long run. As this aspect, l1800 will be less usable with same maintaince. So it is really a question of how many prints you need per day and what is your budget. If you need over 50 prints per day, it is better to go for 8 channel printheads. L1800 is 3 times slower. If you just want to try this method and don't know where it leads(as hobby) you can start with even a L805. If A3 size is necessary then L1800.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. Yea, that’s how everything is, isn’t it? Just some variable in the timing. Without proper maintenance, usage, high quality materials and experience your going to encounter these issues. Could be a $200 machine or a $40,000 machine, they all suffer from user error and mechanical issues all the same. Good luck!
    1 point
  12. Well, I knew I wouldn’t use it because this is a busy time for our business and I don’t implement things I’m not used to, usually. I did however intentionally not clean it, shake, etc for that time period. Just to understand it’s limits in that aspect. I tried cmyk only prints, and it does stick to it, but there is one issue there. When you use CMYK only, you need more ink down, so the powder can stick to it. In doing so, it will make the colors darker with more ink, and as well possibly blend( because there is a VERY fine line between too much ink, and enough to get it to get the po
    1 point
  13. Turns out really well. Printed using a p400, heavy cotton sweatshirt, White ink only DTF. An otherwise unprintable( raised seam on the print area) garment due to its design with My DTG setup. I hadn’t used, shaken, cleaned or maintained the printer in 3 weeks. Shook the carts well, did two head cleans and this came out. Unimaginable with DTG due to clogging/drying out.
    1 point
  14. I figured I'd make a post since this is one of the most popular questions right now. The list of printers that are good for DTF is basically the same as for DIY DTG: https://www.opendtg.com/topic/3-which-printers-to-use-for-diy-dtg/ You need an Epson printer with 6-8 colors / ink channels so you can print CMYK + White inks, available refillable cartridges, and compatible RIP software. The most popular models are going to be the best to use unless you are fine with figuring things out on your own. L1800 (1430 w/ bulk ink) is used a lot because it's cheap and avail
    1 point
  15. 1. about the same, DTF uses much less ink( about 1/3rd for me, plus the ink is almost half the cost of DTG ink at the moment) no pre-treatment. But to offset that, your spending money now on film and powder. depending on your print size and film cost, DTF may be a bit more expensive. Time wise, they take about the same amount of time. 2. about the same, you really only shake the cartridges, print with it, and clean the capping station/print-head with a foam swab either way. 3. DTG offers next to no hand feel, DTF can be thin or thick, soft or plastic-y depending on how you press it
    1 point
  16. I just received my DTF machine and i am just confused at what to do besides plug up using usb to software and fill ink? Please help.. if I’m using RIP what are the settings suppose to be... what maintenance do I do at first? I have a P600
    1 point
  17. Version 20.0.0

    1,142 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Settings are for the Epson P600 Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley
    1 point
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