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  1. Version 1.0.0

    1,121 downloads

    This code is a full version intended for use with our V2 AIO and shield boards. Can also be used with a standard Arduino Uno. Code has settings for the Epson 1430 model Requirements: encoder and bounce2 library in Arduino IDE 5v to 3v step down on the PE and ASF signals to protect the Epson 30 tooth pulley needed
    3 points
  2. It call UV DTF AB films https://www.focusij.com/focus-direct-transfer-uv-dtf-film-p00118p1.html
    1 point
  3. Thanks for help have a good day😊
    1 point
  4. Chipless solutions is what i had always used, I’m glad you found some of the information helpful.
    1 point
  5. No no need to change pipes of capping station
    1 point
  6. I've just gone through the process of converting a second hand Epson P600 for DTF and thought I'd document some of the steps I've taken, settings I use etc. - it may help someone else attempting the same Needless to say, there will be nuances and variations around your particular setup. The info below represents the outcome of trial and error, Googling and researching etc. (putting it all in one place - I wish I'd had this before I stated *grins*). I'm using AcroRIP 9.0.3 Step 1 - Removing the Rollers Don't be daunted by this, it really is very simple. A small flat blade screwdriver is all you need to pop these loose and slide them out. No printer disassembly is needed. Step 2 - Adding the DTF Ink Using refillable cartridges, I've installed in this order: YWWMCWWK - the final cartridge (MK) is filled with a mix of distilled water and a dash of printer cleaning fluid. In AcroRIP 9.0.3 I've set the printer as Stylus Photo R3000, selected the port the SC-P600 is connected to, and set the Ink Channels under 'Color Management' to match the installed sequence. Step 3 - Waste Tank (optional) While you can make your own, I snagged a ready to go one from Ebay for speed and convenience. Step 4 - Output Tray The purpose of the output tray is to support the film as it exits the printer. It needs to be positioned so that the top of your output tray is only 1-2mm lower than the top of the output rollers in the printer. If there's a drop, the film will bend as it exits; when it bends during feeding the film will catch the printhead or other parts of the printer and smear the ink. I had some A2 foam board which I used for a makeshift output support. The board is 5mm thick. As you can see in the image, I made a couple of cutouts at the sides so that the tray slides neatly into the printer exit area. The back end of the support rests on the end of the fully extended output tray, and to keep the front (printer facing) edge in place I 3D printed a couple of supports. These are 70mm high and rest neatly on the open bottom front cover of the printer. At some point I'll do a neater version of this (it's a bit bigger than it needs to be), but it does the job. Step 6 - AcroRIP 9.0.3 Settings You'll need to play around with your own Ink Limit settings, and White Layer Generation etc. These are the settings I've used successfully. And that's it... you may or may not find this useful If you are having issued with film feeding, leave a stack of paper in the tray (I've got about 8mm of A4, in landscape, and the film feeds reliably). Another point is don't close the paper guides tightly against the film - leave a 5mm gap. You should have all the paper width check settings on the printer OFF. Oh, one last thing - in terms of sprinkling the DTF powder on to the print, I'm now using one of these little shakers (medium size holes). It makes it quite quick and easy to get coverage on most of the print. What ingenious methods have you all come up with to recover the surplus powder once you've applied it? I'm using the hover method of curing via my heat press - about 2 minutes at 170 degrees, hovvering about 1cm above the film. When pressing the garment, 20 seconds at 170 degrees, medium pressure seems to do the trick nicely. I then re-press under silicon paper for another 10 seconds.
    1 point
  7. Capping station fluid is there to keep the capping station wet, and the printhead from drying out. print flush fluid, is designed to break down and flush out the ink in the lines, if your trying to clean all (most) the ink out. printhead cleaning solution is designed to clean the head and break down clogs, without damaging the printhead. clog buster is a last resort solution to use when you have a serious clog that nothing else clears, if used long enough( like it sitting in it too long) in itself can damage the head. I use printhead cleaning solution to clean everything, and distilled water for capping station solution, which, if its DTF isn't really needed, depending on the printer. if your using something like the P600/P800, the capping station fluid would help. Using it on something like an L1800 or XP-15000 I wouldn't use anything in the capping station, it can and will siphon the inks out, or mix the ink colors in the head/dampers/cartridges.
    1 point
  8. Never tried, from my understanding only EKprint supports it at this moment. It’s what I use anyway.
    1 point
  9. With the cartridges before you remove them put the bung in the air vent.
    1 point
  10. thank you reptilesink the code is available ??
    1 point
  11. I reset the oem and the aftermarket one without an issue. I took the top off, threw away the cotton, and now it’s a tank I just dump every reset.
    1 point
  12. Time for a followup on this post. Man, amazing what you what you can learn in 2 weeks... At this point I have the XP-15000 printing transfers from end to end. I'm still working out my settings for consistent powder melt, but that has nothing to do with the printer. The only modifications I've made to the printer is removing the 2 screws that hold the roller bracket in place and removing the roller bracket, installing the chipless firmware, and making a tray out of Dollar Tree Foam to keep the film close to the height it's being printed at so the film won't lift when it close to the end of the page (you'll know what I mean if you convert this printer and use sheets instead of rolls). Knowing what I know now, I could convert this printer in under 30 minutes. If I had all the needed supplies, ink, film, power, blah blah blah (which I do now), I could convert this printer and be up and printing transfers in under an hour. I received plenty of help from this forum when I ran into a few problems, mainly with EKPRINT settings. I won't mention any names, since I don't want to be responsible for them getting bombarded with messages. If any of them read this and they can volunteer their services themselves. I know there is much more in store, since I'm new to DTF, but I'm not new to tech, hardware, digital art (mostly illustrator) and working with new hardware modifications. From my experience, the hard part is over, fear of the unknown. This printer prints transfers as good, if not better than, the transfers I've purchased. I'm not saying it's better or worse than any other DTF printer, since I have no bar of comparison, but I will say that I'm pretty picky about the quality of t-shirts I sell, and I'm very happy with the results I'm getting. I no longer have to worry about buying from someone who just wants to make $ and doesn't really care about quality (The reds in my transfers are actually the same color red as my art now!). I'm 100% certain I'll run into plenty of bumps in the road since this seems to be a newer printer in the DTF scene and I'm also new to the DTF scene, but as far as getting the XP-15000 up and printer transfers, it's not tough at all. Even without help from this forum, a tech savvy resourceful person shouldn't have too much trouble. I you start out with absolutely nothing but a heat press, like me (well I do have a workshop and a lot of tools and supplies in general) you can get in the game with this printer for under $1,500. That may seem like a lot, but that's EVERYTHING you will need: Printer, RIP software, ink, film, powder, extra maint boxes, maint box resetter, multiple sets empty ink carts, print head cleaner, little sponge tip cleaner thingys, syringes, needles and a few other weird things you prob thought you wouldn't need... You'll make that money back making transfers for yourself if you run a brand or or sell custom tees using transfers. If you already have a print business, this is really low risk to see if you want to get into the DTF side of the biz. And if you're a hobbyist that kind of does a little of both, like me, it's a nice thing to have around that should easily pay for itself, and if it doesn't, it's worth the learning experience. Hope this helps. I'm more than happy to answer any questions, since others were happy to answer mine.
    1 point
  13. Rip software is available for this printer, I just purchased 3 of the refurbs for short run sheet only use, for one of them anyway. as for the ciss, that’s a waste of money. Get some refillable carts from aliexpress for $20 and just swap them out every 15-20 prints. A ciss, with white ink is a major headache. However, if you insist on a CISS, just use those same $20 carts, with a cheap $10-15 6 color ciss ink tank. $150 is highway robbery. my intentions: remove rollers make chipless use 3 sets of refillable cartridges for ink, swap them when they come close to empty. use EKprint use my regular film ( they all use just about the same pickup method, I haven’t had any issues). make an output tray make a waste tank and install it. like this, I’ll have a quick, Disposable unit for short run( or mistakes in my prints from the roll printer) designs for under $350, I already own EKprint. also, without a ciss, you just shake the ink carts every other day. Want to take a break? Throw in some carts with cleaner, do two head cleans and let it sit for months without issue. with a ciss, you deal with wasted separated ink/runny prints if it isn’t printed with daily. as well, ciss tanks on a printer like this have to be placed at a specific height, and maintain a specific ink level or they leak all the ink out, siphoning it from the ink tanks until it equalizes. Basically, a huge mess and wasted ink. some people use and love them, I do for pigmented ink printers. For this type of stuff, I HATE ciss systems, but that’s my opinion
    1 point
  14. Version 1.0.0

    24 downloads

    Here i leave the adjust software for epson xp 2101.
    1 point
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