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  2. Thanks for your feedback, this is really helpful. I am using matt film for my prints but to cure it, i use my heat press. I leave it on the heat press, few cm without touching the print for 2 minutes at 160C. what do you recommend in terms of curing as sometimes with my process i get tiny bubbles but they are not very visible? thanks again!
  3. This makes sense, you can see it’s in the ink layer. I will also agree this is probably your issue. While that’s a bit hot for 50/50, it would be across the entire design and faded looking. Probably a hot spot in curing.
  4. It's hard to see exactly in the photos, but I remember when I overcured/cured too fast with the gloss film, there would be holes in the final print on the shirt. I think that's what I'm seeing here? Happens with matte film too but not as much.
  5. Your could try a lower temp, most powders melt around 210-220 degrees. So you could press colder. That’s pretty high of a temperature for a 50/50 blend.
  6. Here are two examples.. fairly light press also.
  7. You can’t, you just place your print around it.
  8. Hi, I have an Epson L1800 which i use for printing. The quality of the printout is great but when I transfer it to the t-shirt, it burns part of the print. The only way i can avoid this is by pressing extremely light but then the print doesn’t feel like it gets stuck to the t-shirt correctly. Has anyone experienced this before? Note: i am using cotton t-shirt which i press at 160C for 10 seconds. the powder is melted for 2 minutes before applying to t-shirt. I am using 60% colour print and 100% white.
  9. Yesterday
  10. How to get around the watermark issue?
  11. Last week
  12. Cadlink wants an additional $800 to make your own color profile within Cadlink. Shooting that cost up to $1,195 for the program and the ability to make your own ICC. Looks like you can control a few more aspects to better the print mode, still very expensive.
  13. I put a fan on my heat sink and it worked fine. After a few hours of printing without it, it would get hot and reset.
  14. P400 tends to die randomly i could not figure out why. It seems their mainboard is really fraigle, so it is best to keep them in a well climated area.
  15. Acrorip waits ripping done to start job. So waiting time is long.
  16. จะเปลี่ยนแปลง 1800 เป็นโปรแกรม DTF บนแพลนได้ มีต่อไม่ต้องการทำใ... I'm sorry if I use the wrong language, I use the translation.
  17. ฉันต้องการแปลง l1800 เป็น DTF พิมพ์บนม้วนได้ ใครมีโค้ดต่อลูปทำวงจรบ้างครับ
  18. I want to convert l1800 to DTF. Can be printed on a roll Does anyone have a code for connecting a loop to make a circuit?
  19. Mr.Carter pls sent me too. Thanks a lot! florensik81@outlook.de
  20. Can I ask if you’ve tested Acrorip enough to know if it has the ability to queue prints? I know EKPrint just used the main windows queue which was simple enough. Might be able to automate the whole process so I wouldn’t consider the fact that I have to handle each print individually a problem. As far as the speed...would you say the 1440x720 with Acrorip is as fast as EKPrint’s 1440x1440?
  21. I’m not sure. That’s the thing, I’m certain each printer they support is individually tested/modified before being added. So I feel like each printer is going to be different with them. It prints insanely slow though, with Cadlinks standard 1440x720 mode. I’m not sure how that print time is acceptable, it’s not to me. I agree 100% that sucks with EKprint. Color adjustment is something that guy needs to work on, at least before I ever recommend it for color prints again. I mean, what kind of RIP doesn’t allow you to add your own profile? I was able to easily add mine into acro and Cadlink. If acro wasn’t so slow, I’d definitely use it instead. I do the same thing, I think most of us do business wise. Like your drag and drop feature, I click open- type the file name partially-press enter. Type my width, and it’s automatically centered in the film for easily alignment in press ( for me). Takes me about 10 seconds per print, since they all need their size adjusted. with EK I print 39 12x12 prints an hour normally, when I do black or white in the p800. The p400 gave me around 35, so not much of a difference in my opinion. I think it’s all RIP related.
  22. Something weird there...I just printed a 11.25 x 15 image with my P400 and it finished in exactly 5:02 with Cadlink. Is the P400 faster than the P800 or could something else be causing that? Personally, I like Cadink the best for a few reasons: 1. Color adjustments...I don't know if Acrorip can do it but EKPrint can't. I guess it SOMEWHAT can in the gamma adjustments but it throws a lot of things off when I do it that way. With the color profile that Cadlink has loaded, it didn't work perfectly out the box but I was able to adjust the CMYK individually until I got it looking accurate. I've noticed different inks from different manufacturers have their own optimal CMYK levels in Cadlink and the ability to adjust it is real nice. 2. The ability to just drag multiple files on there and hit print. The way my business is laid out, I print items to order so it's extremely efficient to be able to do it this way. The nesting feature is also great if I have smaller images that would fit on the sheet/width of the roll that I'm using. CADlink DOES have some editing capabilities, but I stay away from them. I just don't like them at all and I'm a photoshop person so I like to do things on there, save the file and load in CADlink and hit print.
  23. Good luck with that guy, honestly. Over the years I’ve just gotten tired of warning people, used to I would write a book. Lol. yea, DIY is the way to go if you like making things. my harbor freight cart mini shaker works better than the one I bought now, and it will only continue to improve. I’m in the p800/cart less than $1,000 for roll off transfers. The p400 that was on it died of unknown reasons after about 3000-4000 transfers. i highly recommend not paying full price for a desktop printer, from anyone. Do those yourself. For the price you buy them they are disposable. A Ciss system with white ink never works out long term either, not without a way to shake the white ink effectively and daily. If you want “ high and mighty” order an Audley kit from DTGsuperstore or China directly. At least those are worth replacing parts on. Good luck!
  24. I trialed kothari once- but I had no idea what I was doing and got hit with orders so I didn’t mess with it much. Since the trial takes a dongle unfortunately I’ll probably never try it again. Thanks for your input! i genuinely think knowing all the rip options, actual print times and quality would be awesome.
  25. Acrorip usually struggles with purple and light tones. For ek i did not get any correct color. Kothari with Dupont inks are best result for me without any color adjustment. It also have supported profilini devices on its manual and setup wizard. So i think best one is kothari. However they support reseller so if your reseller dont want to spend time on you you are supportless. It is important to have it from a good seller. Dont know the cadlink.
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